A shilling cookery for the people

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NEW WORKS

GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & CO,

FAEMNGDOH STREET, LONDON;

13, BEEEMAH STREET, HEW TORE
And by ordeT, Co be obtained 0/ alt Baohiellere.

MR. AINSWORTK'S NEW NOVEL,
la One Vol., pnce Fl\li SsnuNQS, cloth gilt.

THE FLITCH OP BACON,

ThB CeSTlBM OF DUHMOW.

A Tali of EnglUh Home.

By WILUAM HARRISON AIN3W0ETH,

And IlluttraUd by Jafm QUbert.

Aa ■ acnoDgbly DutlonEl ilDTi-in IntliuweU u la tUIeiiTtleor

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■" — T of rami limplicili mid Jmiilitjin ibii bookwheha

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TURKEY : Past and Present.

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Omtains, the Russian Campaign of 1828 and 1829, Sketches of the Sultan
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'4i^^6S^

SHILLING COOKERY

pon

THE PEOPLE:

XICBBAOIVO

AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF PLAIN COOKERY,
AND DOMESnC ECONOMY.

BT

ALEXIS SOYER,

AUTBOB or ** THB HODHBV HOUSBWIVBt"

BTO. BTO.

tKttMi ^S^nwxiti.

/f- '■

i .'6

V"*'

^^ 'V ' '^! ''^'

LONDON:
GEO. BOUTLEDGE k CO., FARKINGDON STKBET.

KEW TOBK: 18, BEEKKAN STBEET.

1854.
[The Author tftkis work retervet ike right tftrantlating it.l

60007061 QT

LOVDOV:
MTIU iJn> BDWiJU>8,

CKiS1>0B 8XBB1T.

TO THE BiaHT HOKOUBABLE

THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY,

XTO. BTO. BTO.

Mr LoBD^

The kind condescension which permits
the dedication of this work to one of such eminent
philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim
TiX>on my most profound gratitude, and more than repays
me for the time and study I have devoted to its production*

With the highest consideration,

I haye the honour to be.

Your Lordship's most humble and

obedient servant,

ALEXIS SOYER.

PREFACE.

In the course of a long and laborious career, entirely de-
voted, both in study and practice, to the preparation of the food
of man in a manner most conducive to his health, — I have
published two works on Modem Cookery, both of a different
character, namely, ' The Gastronomic Regenerator,* adapted
for the higher class of epicures ; the second, for the easy middle
class, under the title of the * Modem Housewife* The success
of both I gratefully acknowledge as having far exceeded my
expectations.

While actively employed, under the authority of govemmeni^
in a mission to Ireland, in the year of the famine, 1847, it struck
me that my services would be more useful to the million than
confining them, as I had hitherto done, to the wealthy few. I
immediately set to work, but soon found out my error, that I was
merely acquainted with the manners and ways of living of the
above two classos of society, for whom I had previously catered.

Perceiving that it would be impossible to cure a disease with-
out first arriving at its cause and origin, I found that the only
course I bad to pursue was to visit peiaoimlL'^ \Xi<^ %^)kA»^) «b^

Tlii PBEFAOE.

learn the manners of those to wliom I was about to address
myself, and thereby get acquainted with their wants.

■

My readers will easily perceive that, whilst semi-buried in my
fashionable culinary sanctorum at the Beform Clnb, surrounded
by the ^lite of society, who daily honoured me with their visits in
that lounge of good cheer, I could not gain, through the stone
walls of that massive edifice, the slightest knowledge of Cottage
life.

Determined to cany out my long thought of project, I cheer-
fully bade adieu to my wealthy employers, leaving them in a most
tibriving condition, regretting only my fair visitors ; and, like a
joyful pilgrim of the olden time, I set forth on my journey,
visiting on my route eveiy kind of philanthropic and other use-
ful institution, but more especially the domains of that indus-
trial class, the backbone of every free oountiy — ^the People,— to
whom for the present I bid farewell, leaving them in the hands
of ma cKbre Hortense, who will relate to them, with her usual
affability, the result of my visits through the United Sjngdom.

CONTENTS.

IllTSOlUTOTIoy.

Leiler .

Letter

Loiter

Soups in Iron Saucepan or Stewpan

Gxidizon ^ • ,

Fiflh on Qridiron

How to Boil all kinds of Fish «

Fish in Tin-pan in Oven ,

Fried Fish . ,

The Three-l^^ged Iron-pot

Important Observations on Curing Hams and BaooB

Lamb . «. ^ «

Oz-liyer as used in France

French Pot-au-feu

Important Remarks on Cod-liver Oil

Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables

General Ignorance ef the Poor in Cooking

The Qiidiron and Frying-pan

Important Bemarks on Steak and Bnmpsteak

Introduction to Frying-pan

Fowls

Curious Effeots of Imagination •

Introduction to Baking Stewpan

Hints on the Pig

On Boasting • • •

How to Boaist

On the Economy of Boasting by Gas, NoU

Cottage Boasting

Time-table for Boasting

On Meat in Baker's Oven

A few Hints on Baking Meat «

An Improved Baking-dish.

A Series of Beceipts on Baked Meats

Meat Puddings

Meat Ptes • • •

YegetaUes

Qeneral Lesson on the Cooking of YegiUHw

Pian^ called the ThonMuA Heads

VAOB
1

a

4
7
17
ib.
21
24
26
29
82
83
87
88
41
48
46
48
(0
5&
62
68
69
83
88
89
90
ib.
91
93
94
ib.
95
97
103

2 IHTBODUCrrOBY LKITTEBfiU

Those who visit these humble abodes to inculcate the
divine precepts of the Saviour of mankind, do but half the
great work, unless they at the same time show how those
things which the Almighty has created as food for man
can be employed towards his nourishment.

In some of my letters, my dear friend, I think I have
sent you a description of some scenes I witnessed in tiie
course of my rambles, especially in Ir^and, resulting £L*om
a want of knowledge, all of which l^ears a moral; and
what a high feeling of delight and satisfaction it 'will be
to na, should we find that the resist of our labour i^
crowned with success, in an^eliorating the conditions of
these classes; for believe me, I was right when I stated
that the morals of a people greatly depend on their food^
and wherever th^ ^ome of a^ individual} ii\ whatever class
of society he may piove, is made comfortable and happy,
the more moral and religious will that person be.

Deabbst HoBTiarsii,

I highly approve of your plan;
it is time that it was put into action. I am fearfal that
our friends, the pubUc, to whom we promised, some four
years since, a work like the present, will have beeome
impatient; but they will be gainers by the delay, as by
your visits to the various parts of the United Kingdom^
you have obtained that insight into the domestic arrange-
ments of the class of persons for whom it is intended, that
coidd not be obtained by any other means*

IHTBOPUOTOBY UBTTJBB8, 3

* Your new plan of writing a series of receipts peculiarly
adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron^ frying-
pan^ iron pan, and black pot, is at once original, and
cannot fail of being very eflfective ; for no matter how
humble or poor the dwelling, one of those faithful
servants are sure to be found at its post ; and I do not
doubt b^t t/hsk^i u^ider your tuition, they will prove of
greater value to the public at large than they hitherto
}iave been.

If a person, after purchasing this work for a shilling,
had tq lay out five or six more in kitchen utensils before
be could cook by it, it would be a great drawback on
its worthy but by your happy and simple style, you have
ao succeaafully avoided all complicated matters in its
pages, that nothing will be requisite but the aforesaid
simple ki^hen implen^ents to bring it into action.

I alsQ perceivCji with pleasiu'e,* that you have not
pmitted the slightest article of cheap food of any descrip-
tion, which, with the numerous receipts you give for
d^resaing the same, must prove a great blessing to many^
and only require to b^ introduced to the notice of the
public to form a part of their daily diet

It is to be regretted that men of science do not interest
themselves niore tbas^ they do on a subject of such vast
magnitude as this; fo^ I feel confident that the fobd of
a country niight be increased at least one-third, if the
culinary science was properly developed, instead of its
being slighted as it is now. I myself think it worthy
the attention, of a peer of the realm; for, as you justly
observe^ the morals of a coimtry greatly depend on the

s 2

nratODTJCTOBY LETTEBS.

production and preparation of its food^ and most beartil^
do I re-echo your sentiments.

Mt DEABESt PfilEm),

You are right. Cookery, in our era,
has been thought heneath the attention of men of science;
and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a
domestic event, but what always has been, and always will
be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray,
who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the
guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in-
trusted with such important duties ? The selection of good
and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the
cook's endeavours; but these maybe purchased months,
or even years, before you require them, which would of
course give you an ample chance of remedying any error;
Ifhile a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of
n moment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more
disposes the heart to amicable feeling and fti^adly trans-
actions, than a dinner well conceived and artistically
prepared.

In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked
upon as a distinguished member of society; while now he
is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial.

Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know-
ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who
have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let
,us see what one of the greatest chemists of the day

INTBODUCTORY LETTERS. 5

(Liebig) says on tliis imperishable subject, in his valuable
work, " The Chemistry of Food," that

" Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys
a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more
imiversally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre-
paration of our food. Led by an instinct, which has almost
reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring
guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the
experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and
the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all
that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to
the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces,
he imitates the gastric juice; and bf the cheese which closes the
banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of the
stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the
observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously
fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action,
a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them.
The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter
with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi-
cation, in due proportion ; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary
stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibriom ; and he
provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man,
as weU as for the strong of both sexes."

Such is the high enlogium paid to culinary science by
that learned man; and perhaps there is no one more able
of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not
yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like
others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our
labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first
prooi^ which on receiving I will immediately correct and
forward to you.

COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE.

SOUPS, IN IRON SAUCEPAN,
OR STEWPAN.

SiMPttiFtEt) StOdK FOR SotJPS, GRAVtES, AND

PLAIN SAUCES.

Eloiss,^— Perhaps yon ate not aWare of the ireason why the great
infjority of people in this country are opposed to, and even accused
6i not liking, soap; the siinple reason is, t^t every receipt described
in most Cookery Books, is so complicated and expenMve, that they
cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I
will therefore endeavour, in tlds little book, to obviate that difficulty,
by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quick,
nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thUs soup may form a
part of the daily fkre of every dinner table.

Please pay particular* attention to the following recdpt, for when
you are perfect in it, and can make it ^uick and well, ahnodt
every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred
to in different sauces and dishes.

1. Stock for Clear Soujp. Mr^ Lesson, — Cut two pounda
bf knuckle or scrag of veal into sm^ pieces, place them in the
iron pot or stewpan, with two ounces of salt butter or dripping,
Iwo ounces of lean bacon cut small, three teaspoonfuls of salt,
half a spoonful of pepper, a gill of water, three middle-si^ed, or
isix ounces of, onions slicecl. l}ut on the fire ; when boiling, stir
round with a spoon for about ten minutes, or until it forms a
whitish thick gravy at the bottom, or gets rather dry, then add
five pints of hot or cold water ; when boiling, let it simmer gently
for three quarters of an hour, skim it well, pass it through a
sieve, and it will be found clear and ready for use for the
following soups. Only one third of this quantity need be mada^

8 SOUPS.

In case bacon or ham cannot be obtained, nse half a pound more
meat and a little more salt.

The meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten
plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce.

2. Second ic**(m.— Proceed exactly as No. I. Add two
cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip,
leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you
cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add
the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf.
You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns,
an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per
plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is
very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary
the flavour of every kind of soup.

Note, This broth is of a nice white colour, and should it be
required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see
No. 462), or half a burnt onion when it is making : these in most
large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured at the
grocers, at the cost of cightpence the pound. They will go a great
way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years.

3. Brown Gravies, — The following is very good for brown
sauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or poultry;
and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of
broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little
difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on particular
occasions.

Grease the bottom of the pot with about two ounces of fat,
butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay
them on the bottom, and place over them three pounds of leg
or shin of beef, or clod and sticking ; cut it slantway in pieces,
chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonful
of pepper; set it on the fire until it begins to hiss, which
indicates that all the moisture is dispersed ; reduce the heat of
the fire by throwing ashes on the top ; put on the pan with the
cover over. Let the onions stew imtQ quite brown, but not
burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive
by holding the pan or pot on one side, the contents of which will
be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not burning ;
immediately add five pints of cold water ; when boiling, skim
and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till

SOUPS. 9

wanted. It will keep for many days in winter, and also in
summer, by boiling it every other day, with the addition of half
a gill of water added to it now and then.

4. Lesson No, 2. — ^The remains of roast or boiled meats,
game, poultry, &c., may be added, cut up, and the bones broken,
using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken
out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce.

The addition of doves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips,
and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the
gravy.

5. Clear Vegetable Soup, Lesson No, 1. — Cut in small dice,
two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks,
and celery, altogether about half a pound ; wash them well, drain,
put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a
teaspoonM of sugar; put on the flre, stir often; when no moisture
is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim,
until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege-
tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight
of either. Be careful that you remove the fat from all dear
soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake
of a brownish colour.

6. Lesson No. 2. — ^The addition of a few green peas, when in
season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few
Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the
above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant
and refreshing.

7. Clear 2W»»ijp, Lesson No, 3. — ^Peel and cut in large dice
half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and a little
sugar ; proceed as above. Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer,
skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. 1.
Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky or
spongy, they will not do.

8. Jerusalem Artichokes, — ^Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry as
above ; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they
are suffidently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cook
them.

9. Carrot Soup, — ^For carrots proceed as above, and simmer
till tender ; they take twice as long as the ax^Q\i<(^<!!J& ^c^s^.

lO SOUHL

10. Vermicelli and Macaroni. — ^Pray, Eloise, why shotild not
the workman and meclianic partake of theto wholesome and nu-
tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those
restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so
plentiM and cheap P It only requires to know how to cook themj
in order that they should become as fiivourite a food in these
northern climes, as they are in the southern * Boil three pmts
of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of
vermicelli or macaroni ; boil till tender, and serve. Macaroni
takes twice as long as vermicelli doing.

Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and
water for some days, and used as required for soups and made
dishes.

11. Mice. — ^Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice ; boU
it gently in three pints of broth ; When tender, serve.

12. Tapioca and Semolina. — ^In case of illness, two ounces of
tapioca or semolina may be used instead.

13. W%iie Soup icith 3fe(Rf.=^When the broth No. 1 is done,
skinl off the fat, put thd meat in the tureen, then put into a
basin two ounces of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk,
a half teaspoonM of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; add
to the broth by degrees ; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring ;
skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice
may be added.

14 Good White MocTe Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply
made thus : — ^Purchase a calfs head ; if large, use one half for
a day's dinner; cook as teceipt No. 87; take the remains of
that, if any, with the other half^ and remote the bone ; out the
iheat into square pieces ; add it in proportion of one pound of
meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1 ; mix some flour and
milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspooufiil of
cayenne pepper, and four cloves ; let it simmer on the fire for
bne hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, Which put
into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a
ibmon is an improvement, just befbre serving, as well as a drop of

* Macaroni is how selling in London at fitepence per pound, and
maJteg Amr poimda of food when boiled, as No. 408. .

H&VPfL 11

Wine, if liatidy. If required Inown, add three tablespoonfbls of
colouring $ at^ tiee water o/t broth' for thickening, instead of milk.
The wate^ in which the calf a head ia boiled may be kept, and
lidded to the atock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled
iMseaaionallj, and a little water added ; it shonld never be covered,
or fermentation will commence ; it shonld be occasionally stirred
nntil cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than
ihin ones, mcxre particularly if they have vegetables and flour
in them ; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin,
leave the month exposed to the air.

15. CofO'keet, — Another very cheap and nutritious soup may be
made by an ox-foot or cow-heel ; having bought them cleaned
and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from
the bone, cut them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mock-<
turtle.

16. Whit» 8&np, toith VhgetdhUi, ^c.-^Having ciit and fried
the same quantity of vegetables as No. 1, add them to the white
toupj fr^ from ineat as Ko. 13 ; simmer and skim off the fat.
Twd ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice> i&D., previously boiled,
ean be ttsed ih the same way.

17. Purie^ or Thick Vegetable Soups, — Green JPea. — ^Put
a quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan, with
two ounces of butter or fat, and the ysame of lean bacon cut
small, a middling-sized onion^ little mint, two teaspooiifills of
salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water ; set
on slow fire, sthr now and then, dr until no more moisture
remains onithe bottom of the pan$ add two or three tablespoonfuls
of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of
the pan with a wooden spoon \ moisten with a quart of milk and
a quart of water, sinmier twenty minutes, or more if old peas,
and serve.

This, bj^ leaving Out the bacon, becomes iteagre Soup. Fried
bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment.

If you have any broth (No. 1), use it Instead of the milk and
water.

By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by
breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an
inviting pur^e is produced ; after which warm up, and serve.

. 18< PmpkiH Bovp is a Vary £Ktourv\» d2^\:^TCkas^\«^^

13 SOUPS.

France, especially with the juveniles ; and when in season, there
is not a school, college, hospital, convent, or monastery, where
it is not made ; a proof that it must be very wholesome. In
this country, whose climate will not allow its arriving at the
same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow, the
American Butter Squash, and the Mammoth Chwrdf will
replace them.

Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd
into large dice, put it into your pan, with three ounces of salt
butter or fat ; add two teaspoonf ols of salt, the same of sugar, a
little pepper, and half a pint of water ; set on the fire, and stew
gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two table-
spoonfuls of flour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of
either milk, skim -milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and
serve with &ied or toasted bread, cut in dice.

19. Meagre Sonps, — ^This soup is on the list of meagre soups,
a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of in Lent,
but which is not understood in England ; the word having the
meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in
the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle
classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not
in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of ^rinaceous matter ;
bread being also served with it.

20. Vegetable Marrow, — ^Peel, and take out the inside, if
seeded, cut in slices about two pounds ; put in saucepan on the
fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat; add two tea-
spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of
pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced ; stew gently until
in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for
pumpkin soup.

21. Turnip Soup, — Use two and a half pounds of good
turnips, and proceed as above.

22. Ited Carrot Soup, — Scrape gently, and cut in very thiu
slices two pounds of carrots ; put them in the saucepan or pot with
two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a
little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water,
simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonftds of

JJour, and two quarts of broth (No. I)i or use milk, or even water.

80UPS. 13

It is mxLoh better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm
up again and serve.

White Carrot — ^Proceed as for the red.

The Swede, Parsnip, Bed and White J?ecf.— Proceed as for
carrot.

23. New Spring and Autumn Soup, — ^A most refreshing and
exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the
markets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this
soup can be made as a bonne bouche :-—

Wash, dry, and cut up four cabbage lettuces, and one coss
ditto, a handM of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two
or three small cucumbers peeled and sliced ; put into a saucepan
a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables ; put
on a slow fire, and stir often, until there is no liquid remaining ;
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, and moisten with two
quarts of broth (No. 1) or wateri and set it to boil ; when boil-
ing, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered
sugar, a little pepper and S£dt ; when the peas are tender, serve.
If you use water, increase the quantity of seasoning.

JVew CocJc^a-LeeJcie,

Ma ch^ Amie, — With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will
always give the preference, in the way of soup, to their cock-a-leekie,
even before their inimitable hodge-podge. Having a very old friend,
from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-a-
leekie, when on a visit to St. John's Wood, I thought I would give
him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and
garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required,
barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I
succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the
principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but
my finend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt :

24. — ^I bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into
pieces, like the flesh from the breast of a fowl, and put them in
the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean
bacon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of
salt, one of sugar, half a one of pepper, a gill of water ; set it
on the fire, turn it over until forming a white glaze at the
bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an horn*, pass
through a sieve, save the best pieces of the vesi, Iti.'O^^TSi^'^i:^-'

14 S0UP8.

time blancli two pounds of leeks, free firom the top green part,
for ten minutes, in a gallon of water, and drain them ; then boil
the stock and half the leeks together, till almost in a pulp, then
add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good
£resh French plums ; simmer half an hour, and serve.

I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having
put in the flesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the
whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland ; an
exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece of
the fowl, and you often tear it to pieces in serving.

25. SimpKfied JSodge-JPodge, — Cut two pounds of iresk
scrag of muUon into small pieces, which put into a stewpan,
with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonM of salt, one
ditto of sugar, half a ditto of pepper ; set it on the fire ; when
boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour; keep it
skimmed; well wash a lai^ge carrot, two turnips, two onions,
and six small cabbage lettuces ; cut them up, and place in the
pot, and simmer till done. A pint of green peas, if in season,
may be added. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in
winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it.

26. Variotis Meat Soups. — Giblet. — ^These should be procured
ready cleaned, but if not, they must be cleaned as No. 459 ; when,
done, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, ancl
dry in a doth ; put into a pan a quarter of a pound of butter ok
dripping, set it on the fire, melt it, then add four ounces of flour,
stir continually until it begins to brown, add two ounces of lean
bacon, and two onions or leeks sliced, fry a few minutes longer,;
put in the giblets, fiy gently for ten minutes, stirring now and
then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it
to simmer ; then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper
one of sugar, three cloves, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a
quarter of a pound of celery well washed and out up small;
continue simmering until the giblets are tender, remove the fat,
and serve. A wineglass of sherry and a little cayenne may
be added. A pound of beef or v^ is, of course, a great im-
provement. This receipt is for the giblet« of a middle-sized
turkey.

27. Hare Soup,

My VMX9, Eloiss, — Since the alteration in onr circumstances I have
learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark in
this receipt. When I buy a hare, as I sometimes do, for two shil-
lings akinning it myself, and selUng the skin for fourpenoe, I save
all th^ hlood in a pie-dish, take out the heart and liver, remo\'ing the
gall ; I then cut ^e hare into two, ac^s t)ie back, close to the last
nhs, and P^t this p^ into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindpart
I keep for roasting the following day.

28. Sore Soup,-^! then proceed ai for giblet soup, only
using hall' a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice,
and put in the pot with the hare. Fifteen minutes before
•orving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have
chopped fine, and boil it up ten minutes ; skim and serve. The
addition of a little Iq^wn sugar and a glass of port wine is an
improvement : if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it.
It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring.

29. Qx Tail. — Cut them at the joints, and proceed as for
gibieti^ adding one pint more water for two small tails, and
sixmaev half an hoar longer, or till done. This should be of a
brown colour. Vegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve
when tender : some will take doubly the time cooking, according
to size.

30. Ox C^^lr.— Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes
in two quarts of water, to set it ; take it out, cut it into thin
slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets.
Serve when tender.

81. Birnplifted MuUigatatony, quickly done. Lesson 1. —
Cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no bone, then
put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls
of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions
•lioed, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place
on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry ; two ounces of bacon or
ham is an improvement ; then add a good teaspoonful and a half
of ouny powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar ; moisten
with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer,
slpm, and serve. Half a pound of rice> as No. 463, may be served
^ther with it or sepavate.

16 80UF&

Lesson 2.— To the above may be added a small apple, cut in
Ibin slices, also any other meat may be used, instead of yeal»
md a little bunch of aromatic herbs ; the meat to remain in the
toup.

32. New Mutton Broth.^-'CvLt two pounds of the scrag, or
any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a
pan with two ounces of fsit, two teaspoonfols of salt, half of
pepper, a giJl of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupM
of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced,
moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer two
hours ; and serve.

33. Potato Soup. — Proceed as above, omit the barley, add
two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put thnn in
when the broth is boiling ; simmer till in pulp, and serve. A
fisw sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, is aH
improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change.

34 Ox Tail Soup in Baking Pan, — Divide two ox tails,
wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with
three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four cloves, a little
thyme, if handy, two good onions ; add three quarts of water,
two tablespoonfbls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a
moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which
save for use, and serve. Half a pound of any v^etable, mixed
or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage.

35. Ox Cheek in Baking Pan, — Get half a one ready bonedt
if not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in whidi case
they should be broken small and put in the broth ; but it givea
more trouble than it is worth* The solid meat at threepence
per pound is more economicaL Wash it well, cut off the white
part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above;
only give it three or four hours to bake. A little mixed spice
improves the flavour. Take the hH off, remove the meat, ci^ it
into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over.

36. Cheap Pea Soup, — ^Put into the iron pot two ounces of
dripping, one quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into dice, two
good onions sliced ; fry them gently until brownish, then add
one large or two small turnips, the same of carrote, one leek,

MDd one bead of celery, all cut thin «nd •IffTitjpg (if all theee

FISH OK GBIBIBOK. 17

cannot be obtained, use any of them, but about tbe same amount) ;
fry for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts of
water; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas;
simmer for two or three. hours, until reduced to a pulp, which
depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls
of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint ; mix half a pound of
floor smooth in a pint of water, stir it well ; pour in the soup,
boil thirty minutes, and serve.

37. The above Meagre. — Precisely as above, only oil or
butter used instead of bacon or dripping: skim-milk could
with advantage be used, in which case add three ounces of salt.
Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the
farinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act
generously on the digestive organs^ satisfying the heartiest eater.

GRIDIRON.

With this primitive utenfdl a great deal may be done in the way of
oooking, but it requires care, or otherwise great loss of food and
money wiU be sustained ; a few minutes' constant attention, wheii the
article is on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the
palate will feel more g^tified.

I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast
iran, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to
hang trcm the bar of the grate before the fire, made so as not to too
mudh press the ohject cooked within it. The principal care in this,
as in all kitchen utensils, is never to put them away dirty ; always
wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use
it, and a place kept where it should be hung.

WHAT I CAN COOK WITH MY GEIDIEON.

Pirstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or
b ineoes. I shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with
one of the most humble dT its inhabitants, and which daily g^tifies
the palates of millions ; it is —

2^ Plain Med ITerring, — Though we have agreed to make xjsft <^
every kind of eatable food^ it is still important V> ij^craci^ craXt ^(^<^\m^

C

18 PISH Oir QBJt>lBjO^.

quality first, for I must tell you, that the quality of herrings varies
as much, if not more, than any other kind of food; the proper way of
curing them being as important to know as the quality of the flesh
itself. This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the
poor man's friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full ci
roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot
have taken the salt properly ; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy,
and sometimes decay, and emit a bad smell while cooking; these
are unwholesome : but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well
set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they
might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back
up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours> and when
taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But
the way to ascertsun if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the
left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste ;
you may thus find out the quality and flavour. This plan is adopted
by large dealers.

38. Wipe your herring; dry it well in a cloth: you may
slightly split the back, or make a few incisions crossways ; rub
it with flour, or dress it plainly, by placing the herring on the
gridiron about six inches over a clear fire, or before it ; turn
them often, and in five minutes they may be done, according to
size.

Or, when it is done, mix a piece of butter with a little mustard
together, and place inside of it, or rub it over. By opening the
back, it will do much quicker ; but to keep the essence in it, it
should be done whole.

Or, buttet and chopped parsley, and a little vinegar or lemon
juice.

Or, butter and chopped fennel and onions, very fine.

Or, cut off the head, open it up the back with a knife, and
remove the back bone of the herring ; put in about one ounce
of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion.
Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does
not escape ; broil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve.
The^ butter is to be inclosed between the two herrings.

The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed
tosrether is first-rate.

'O'

39. Fresh Herrings. — These should be cleaned and scaled,

the bead removed, opened on the back, and the gut taken out.

Make three Blight incisions on eacili &ide,\]iaxo^ ^me ijen^r and

I^ISH 6K QBIDIROK. 19

salt over it, broil for ten minutes, and serve plain, or with either
plain melted hatter or £sh sauce.

Or, a little mixed pickle chopped fine, with melted hatter,
also makes a good sauce for herrings.

40. Maddoch — ^A fine Finnan haddock should he rubbed with
batter, and plain broiled before the fire for ten minutes, or more
if rather large, 'keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it
occasionally. If very salt, steep it in water for one hour ; beat
the thick side down, and broil gently.

Another Way, — Cut a middling-sized haddock in six pieces,
which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them either
in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart of boiling water,
ooverhig your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escape ;
after your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, place
on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over,
and s^e.

Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as
likewise smoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this
simple dish, by adding either a Httle chives, thyme, winter
savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions.

41. Whitings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each
side, rubbed over with salt, pepper, and fiour, and broiled for
seven to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter, or without,
adding a little vinegar or lemon in the sauce.

42. Mackerel, — Cut off the point of the head, open it at the
back, keep it open flat. Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy ;
place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve ^
with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter
sauce. (See No. 422.)

43. — Cut ac above, open it on the back, chop up a small piece
of fsA, bacon, with some parsley, one eschalot, or a small onion;
add a teaspoonful of vinegar ; fill the inside with this stuffing.
Close it again ; tie it round with a string, broil very gently for
twelve to fifteen minutes: it depends on the fire and size.
Serve plain.

44. — Prepare it as above, and put it into a pie dish, with
vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, i!ox «si\iQv^,^S)^\it^^
as before.

c2

20 KSH ON GRIDIBON.

45. — Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some chives
chopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and
about one ounce of butter or lard : put the mackerel, cut open
at the back, and divided in six pieces ; place it on the gridiron,
turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are done.
Serve it on the tin dish. Onions may be used.

46. — ^It may be put into paper, like the herring, No. 38, and
served without any sauce.

Small fresh-water fish, such as tench, pike, perch, barbel, &c.,
may be done like mackerel.

47. Small Soles and Flotmders axe very good when nicely
broiled in the double gridiron before a clear fire; the time
depends on the size and the stat« of the fire : they should be
rubbed with salt, pepper, and flour.

48. Salmon, Salted, should be cut in small slices, of about
one quarter of a pound each, slantways, rubbed with either butter
or oil, and broiled gently. Serve plain, or can be broiled, wrapped
up in oil paper.

49. Eels, Dried. — Steep them in water and vinegar for twelve
hours, rub them with butter, cut them into pieces four inches
long; broil gently, and serve. These are rather scarce, but very
good thus.

60. lEels, Fresh. — Skin and cut them into lengths of four to
five inches ; broil gently for seven to ten minutes ; have some
parsley chopped fine, which mix with some butter, and put a
little in each piece, and serve very hot. They may also be egged
and bread-crummed (see Fried Eels), or with plain sauce.

51. Ling, JFVc*^.— Take about a pound of ling, cut it into
slices of about three-quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper
and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire ; in about
ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with a little
melted butter and chopped parsley, lemon or vinegar, or with
a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce.

Turbot, brill, hake, halibut, plaice, or cod, may be cool^ed
the same way, either over or before the fire.

FISH BOILED IK POT; VAX, OR STEW-PAK. 21

HOW TO BOIL ALL KINDS OP PISH, EITHER WHOLE

OB IN SLICES.

GENERAL BECEIPTS.

Ik all prooeaaes of oookixig that which appears the Amplest is
generally the most neglected, or at heat hut careletsly done. Many
persons, unacquainted with the suhject, would imagine that the boiUng
of fish is so simple, that it merely requires to he put on the fire in a
saucepan ftiU of water, and let simmer or boil until it has lost its
transparency, to he fit to eat. To those who are careless and extra-
vagant, this process may answer yery well; they know no hotter, and
do not care to improve; but to the careM housewife, who wishes to
make every penny go as far as possible, by retaining in every article
of food she cooks the flavour and succulence it possesses (which is, in
fiust, the basis of economical and perfect cookery, no matter how
simple it may be), the following simple receipt, if carefully followed,
will greatly assist: —

Pint of all, let us remember that all large fish, with the skin
whole, must be placed on the fire in cold water; if crimped, or cut in
slices or pieces, in boiling water; if whole, it must not be covered
with more than two or tbree inches of water, or the skin will crack,
and not only spoil the appearance of the fish, but will diminish the
gelatine and gluten it contains, and instead of eating firm and full of
flavour, it will be soft and woolly, espedally if overboiled.

Por all kinds of fish, to every quart of water put two teaspoonfbls
of salt; and if the fish be whole, as soon as it begins to boil, remove
the cover on one side, cuid let simmer gently till quite done, calcu-
lating the time according to the size and quality, which .vary so
mucfa^ that it would be quite impossible to say, " Take a cod, turbot,
or salmon, or any other fish weighing so many pounds, and boil so
long;" for according to its quality, the process of cooking will act
upon it, and therefore in all the following receipts we must make
use of the word cibout with regard to time, but by all means do it
rather over than under. If large fish, I generally try it by gently
pushing a wooden skewer through the thickest part; if it goes
in easily, it is done.

Saw to aaeertain if Fiah, whether hoUed, stewed, or fried, is done,
—If the bone sticks firm to the flesh, or the flesh to the bone, it is
not done; by the same rule, if quite loose, and the flesh of the fish
drops off the bone, it is overdone, and you lose some of its qualities.
For fish in slices try the bone with your knife; if the flesh coro^
from it^ it is done; or bj pladng the point q£ a VsQi<^ \i^^^(!SOk '^^(a

22 IJBU BQILEP IN |»0T^ FAN^ OB ST£W-?AK,

flesh and tho bone, and on rusing it, if done, the knife will part it
easily.

To boil fish whole, sach as tnrbot, plaice, large soles, salmon, cod,
trout, pike, or any such like fish, it is requisite to have a drainer at
the bottom of the kettle, or you will be sure to break your fish to
pieces; and as the cottage of a working man is seldom furnished
with cooking utensils of this nature, let him cut his large fish in
pieces, or boil only small ones ; but as, no doubt, the middle classes
of society will buy largely of this our last work, I think I am in duty
bound, Eloise, to ^e the following receipt, which, withoQt the fore*
going explanation, might seem to you out of place.

62. Ih boil Brill, — ^FLace your fish in the pan, letting it lay
on the strainer; rub it over with six teaspoonfuls of salt — ^it
will make it firmer, then add six pints of cold water, or enough
to cover the fiah ; put your paii on the fire, and when it com-,
mences to boil, put the lid slightly on one pide, and let simmer
till done. A brill of about fire or six pounds will be done in
half an hour after boiling. When sufficiently eooked, lay hold
of both ends of the drainer, lift your fish out, and let it lay on
the top of the kettle for two or three minutes, then slip it on
your ^h on a napkin, and garnish round with parsley, if imy.
If your fish weighs from three to four pounds, it will take from
twenty-five to thirty minutes doing on a moderate fire. Anchovy,
shrimp, lobster, or lemon sauoe> may ie used.

53. Tm'hot^^Malke two incisions with a knife across the
back — ^it prevents the whit^ skin on the top cracking ; rub it
with the juice of a lemon and salt previous to putting the
water over; let it hrjr about three inches under water. A turbot
of seven or eight pounds will take about three quarters of an
hour doing, after the water commences boiling; one of fifteen
pounds, one hour and thirty minutes. Serve with either of the
above sauces, or cream sauce No. 424

64. 8almon,-^A. salmon weighing ten pounds will take one
hour gently simmering when the water commences boiling.
Head and shoulders of six pounds, forty minutes ; cod fish of
the same weight as the salmon, fifteen minutes less ; cod*s head
and shoulders, ten minutes less ; conger eels, hake, ling, same
time as cod. The liver and roe of any of the above-named fish
are very good when boiled and served with them.

Gurnet, pike, barbel, and carp are boiled the same way. If

nSH BOILED or POT, PAV| OB ST^-PAN. 83

dther the inrbot, salinon, or cod is crimped, it will take less
time to boil, and should be put in boiling water, timing it in
proportion to the other fish that has been put in cold water.

65. How to boil Sliced jFV<Jl.— To every pint of water put a
teaspoonful of salt ; when boiling, add your fish, of whatever
kind it may be, calculating that a pound of any sort of fish will
take firom fifteen to twenty minutes ; but ascertain if the bone
separates easily from the flesh, as described in the preceding direc-
tions. Halibut and sturgeon will take longer than any other fish,
plaice less than any. Any fish cut in slices will always eat firmer
and better if rubbed, previous to boiling, with the quantity of salt
you otherwise put in the water ; therefore boil the water plain,
adding the fish and salt at the same time. Mackerel will take
from fifteen to twenty minutes ; trout and haddocks of the size
of a mackerel, a little longer ; herrings, firom twelve to fifteen
mrnntes ; skate, a trifling time longer ; adding a drop of vinegar
in the water to any of the above fish is an improvement

56. IHeio ioojf qf boiling Fish, — ^The addition of a few herbs
and vegetables in the water gives a verv nice flavour to the fish.
Add, according to taste, a little sliced onions, thyme, bayleaf,
winter savoiy, carrots, celery, clove, mace, using whichever of
these ingredients you can procure ; it greatly improves skate,
firesh haddocks, gurnet, &c Fresh-water fish, which have no
particular flavour, are preferable done thus, with the addition
of a little vinegar. Choose whatever sauces you please for
any of the above fish, firom the series at No. 411.

67. Salt Msk, Cod, Zing, and Cod- Sounds.*^ Bosk two
pounds of salt fish for six hours, if not previously soaked, or
according to the cure ; put them in boiling water, in which some
parsnips have been previously boiled. Twenty minutes, if the
fish is thick, will be sufficient; and serve with egg-sauce
Ko. 411. Proceed the same with cod-sounds.

Fresk'ioater Msk. — ^These are not much esteemed amongst
the many, although some are excellent eating, and much in use
on the continent.

68. Iknck and perch must be well scaled and cleaned, and put
into the pan with a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt, one
4mm, dieed, three ajrigs of thyme^ bay-leaf, pepper^ i^^^l^

24 FISH nr TOT tas dt ovev.

oeleij, all in propartian ; a wine-glass of vinegar. If ^ey weigK
one pound boil for half an hour, according to size. Serve with
any fish-sauce.

59. JSels may be d<nie as above, with a Ettle scraped horse-
radish, and served with parsley and butter. Pike and carp may
be boiled in the same way. If no herbs or v^etables, boil in
plain salt and water ; but the above is a great improvement.

JFish in Oven, in Tin Dish, — ^A long square tin dish, like
those for baking, may be used for this excellent mode of cooking
fish, by which all the flavour and succulence of it is preserved.
They may be had of all sizes, and at a very trifling expense.

60. Lesson 1. — Scale and dean a sole, dry it well, chop up half
an ounce of onions rather small, put in the dish one ounce of either
butter, dripping, or oil, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and
onions at the bottom ; lay the sole over, season with pepper and
salt ; mix the remainder of the chopped onions and parsley with
some bread crumbs, and cover the sole with them, adding three
or four pieces of butter or fat over, and a wineglassful of either
wine, ale, or broth, or even water underneath ; put the dish in
the oven or before the fire until done : a lai^ sole will take about
an hour. In case the oven is not hot enough to brown the top,
put the shovel in the fire until it is red-hot, and hold over it.
Serve in the tin. The oven is far better than the front of a
fire.

Plaice may be done the same way, or cut in slices, only it
takes longer doing.

61. Whiting are done the same way, but require a sharp oven,
or they will turn watery. Weaver may be done in the same
manner.

Conger JSels, — Cut four slices, half an inch thick, dry well,
dip each piece into flour, and proceed precisely as for soles. A
liUle grated horseradish and a little spice will vary the flavour.

62. Lesson 2. — Codfish, Halibut, Ling, JETake, Sturgeon, and
Haddock may be done in the same way; and a little stuffing, No.
466, may be used for every one of them, especially cod-liver
stuffing.

63. Lesson 3.^-The remains of boiled fish may always be
donem this way. A few spoonfuls of melted butter added over

FISH m TIN PAK IN OVEN. 25

any of the above fislii before the bread crumbs, makes a change ;
it eats more delicate, and gives very little more trouble.

64. Another Way, — ^Place any of the above fish in the dish,
omitting the onions, if not liked ; add a few herbs or chopped
mushrooms instead ; and make the following—-

66. Sauce, — ^Put in a pan a quarter of a pound of flour,
moisten with a pint and a half of milk or skim-milk, add three
parts of a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, mix all smooth,
add a little mixed spice, or two cloves, grated nutmeg, one onion
cut in four, set on the fire, stir continually, and boil twenty
minutes ; it must be rather thick ; take out the onions and cloves,
add to the sauce four ounces of butter, mix it well, pour over the
fish, and bake as above » a little parsley, chopped, and thrown
over before sending to table, improves the appearance, and a
little grated cheese thrown over previous to placing in the oven,
gives a nice yellow look, and this will be much liked. The
sauce can be made and kept for some days without spoiling.
This sauce is nice with every kind of white fish. Bread-crumb
may be put over the sauce before cooking. The remains of
previously cooked fish may be dressed in this way.

66. JELalibut, Conger, Sake, and Ling {receipt for four
pounds qffish), — Season either of the above rather strong with
two teaj^)oonfuls of salt, half the same of pepper, the same of
ground ginger, and two teaspoonMs of chopped onions. Put
two ounces of fat in a deep tin pan, lay the fish on it, mix two
ounces of flour with a pint of milk ; when smooth poor over the
fish, bake for an hour, and serve.

67. Plaice and large Owmets, — ^The flesb cut from the bone
may be done as above. They all require to be well done. Any
of the above dishes may be surrounded by a border of either
mashed potatoes or boiled rice.

68. In Oven, — Small Fish, — ^Put in a deep pan four tea-
spoonfuls of onions chopped, half a pint of melted butter, a gill
of vinegar; lay over six pounds of any common fish, season over
with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper ; place it in the
oven for twenty minutes, then turn it, baste it with the sauce
now and then ; dish it up, and pour sauce over, or serve in the
pan ; if the sauce should be too thin^ boil on the fire till it gets
of a thiciUih substanoe.

26 FISH IN FBTIKa-PAK«

69. Mackerel in JPie Dish, — Open two or three mackerel on
the back, cut off the tail and head, rub the inside and outside
with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; mix in a bason half a
pint of melted butter, No. 410, add to it a teaspoonM of chopped
fennel and parsley, and a tablespoonf ul of vinegar ; put the fish
in the dish, pour the sauce over, and well bread-crumb it ; put
it in the oven for half an hour or more, and serve. The roe may
be left in the fish, or chopped up and mixed with the sauce.
Balls of cod-liver may be added.

70. Pickled Mackerel, JPlain TFoy.— <]Jut two onions in thin
slices, mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice or
peppercorn ; then have four mackerel ready, with the gills and
gut removed, but not cut ; put a little of ilie onions inside, and
rub the outside with them ; and then rub them with flour, put
them in the dish, put in the remainder of the onions, add half a
pint of vinegar and a gill of water ; bake in a slow oven for one
hour ; use cold. They will keep a long time.

71. M^sh JSerrings, Sprats, and Smelts may all be done the
same way, only they require lees time to bake. Any other kind of
fish, if in smsJl pieces, may be done this way, and is excellent in
summer with salad. The flavour or the pickling may be im-
proved by adding three cloves, two blades of mace, some pepper^
corns, a little garlic, and some sweet-herbs, according to taste.

FEIED FISH.

The great art in filing fish is;, to have it itee ftom grease^ and
in that state it is one of the most delicate descriptioiis di food that
can be given to the invalid, and at the same time the most nourish*
ing. The sudden immersion in the fat solidifies the albumen in the
flesh of the fish, and renders it easy of digeHtion; the coating of bread-
crumbs prevents the fat penetrating into the fish, and when eaten by
the invalid, the skin should be removed, and only the white flesh
partaken of.

The great point is to have plenty of fat in the pan, fi>r it is not
wasted, fiir from it. If it is kept at a proper degree of heat, in the
same pan a sole may be fried, and at the same time an apple iritter;
neither will taste of the other, proving that the high degree of heat
in the fat prevents the flavour of the object immersed In it escaping,

FISH IN FEYING-PAN, 27

72. Fried Sole, — ^Put a pound or two of fat into a deep
firying-pan ; wliilst it is getting hot, take a sole, of course cleaned,
cut off the fins and tail, wipe it with a cloth, egg it, and cover
with bread-cnimhs all over, shake off the loose crumbs, and
press it, and lay the sole in the fat, the white part, or belly,
downwards ; the fat must be at a proper heat, which is ascer-
tained by throwing a pinch of crumb into it; if it hisses, it is ready;
if it bums, it is over-done ; if of a nice colour it will do. Timi
it once while doing. A middle-sized sole will take ten minutes.
Take it out, place it on a cloth ; if any fat is on it, it will come
off. Dish it on a napkin, on which it hardly ought to show
a spot of grease. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of fish ;
but large round fish should not be fHed whole, only the fillets, or
thin siloes. Whitings may be fried whole, like sole, and will
take about ten minutes ; flounders, about five or six minutes ;
smelts, gudgeons, four or five minutes. The last should be fried
as Ibw as possible at a time, and served orisp.

73. Large soles, plaice, cod, halibut, conger eels, ling, hake,
weaver, should all be fried in fillets, or thin slices ; the sole should
be cut down the back bone ; then run the knife under the flesh,
dose to the bone, and cut it off; thus each sole will make four
fillets ; or they may be cut across in pieces of three inches^ with
the bone in.

74 Fl^ce do in the same way, cut in pieces one inch wide.
Cod should be filleted lengthways, or in slices. Hake, haddock,
and gurnet, the same ; halibut, ling, and conger eel, in very thin
slices, that is, not more than half an inch thick. Salt should be
sprinkled over them half an hour previous. All these should
be egged and bread-crumbed, as described in sole. All fish
cooked in this way are excellent cold, as a salad, in summer.
Slices should be broken, or cut, for about a pound of fish, and
pat into a bowl, with two tablespoonfrds of vinegar, four of
oil, half do. of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter
do. of pepper. Toss it up well, that it may mix; it is very
cooling, and makes a light supper. A little fresh salad, as lettuce,
endive, &c, makes it still more so. Slices of cooked potatoes,
lentils, and haricots, may be introduced.

28 FISH IN PRYING-PAK,

75. Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion,

This is another excellent way of frying fish, which is constantly in
nse by the children of Israel, and I cannot recommend it too highly ;
80 much so, that various kinds of fish which many people despise, are
excellent cooked by this process; in eating them many x)ersons are
deceived, and would suppose them to be the most expensive offish. The
process is at once simple, effective, and economical; not that I would
recommend it for invalids, as the process imbibes some of the fat,
which, however palatable, would not do for the dyspeptic or in-
valid.

76. Proceed thus : — Cut one or two pounds of lialibut in one
pieoe, lay it in a dish, cover the top with a little salt, put some
water in the dish, but not to cover the fish ; let it remain thus
for one hour. The water being below, causes the salt to pene*
trate into the fish. Take it out and dry it ; cut out the bone,
and the fins off; it is then in two pieces. Lay the pieces on
the side, and divide them into slices half an inch thick ; put
into a frying pan, with a quarter of a pound of fat, lard, or
dripping (the Jews use oil) ; then put two ounces of flour into a
soup-plate, or basin, which mix with water, to form a smooth
batter, not too thick. Dip the fish in it, that the pieces axe
well covered ; then have the fat, not too hot, put the pieces in it,
and &y till a nice colour, turning them over. When done, take
it out with a slice, let it drain, dish up, and serve. Any kind
of sauce that is liked may be used with it ; but plain, with a
little salt and lemon, is excellent. This fish is often only three*
pence to fourpence per pound; it containing but little bone
renders it very economicaL It is excellent cold, and can be
eaten with oil, vinegar, and cucumbers, in summer time, and is
exceedingly cooling. An qq^ is an improvement in the batter.

The same fish as before mentioned as fit for frying, may be
fried in this manner. Eels are excellent done so ; the batter
absorbs the oil which is in them.

Flounders may also be done in this way. A little salt should
be sprinkled over before serving.

77. In some Jewish families all this kind of fish is fried in
oil, and dipped in batter, as described above. In some &milie8
they dip the fish first in flour, and then in q^^, and fry in oiL
This plan is superior to that fried in fat or dripping, but more

expensive.

TASI0U8 DI0HZ8 US TttE TBOV VCYS. 29

Kanj of the abore-mentioned families have stated days on
which they fry> or stew their fish, which will keep good several
days in summer, and I may almost say, weeks in winter ; an4
being generally eaten cold, it saves them a deal of cooking. Stil^
I must, say that there is nothing like a hot dinner.

THE THREE-LEGGED IRON POT.

INTBODUCTIOy,

Dkabmt Fsnnn>,~Yon are aware that every cottage thronghont
the land has a peculiarity In cookery and cooking utensils, which
nothing can alter. One of tliem has a great ckum on our g^titude,
wliich neither time nor place can erase. War, famine, epidemic,
revolutions, which have from time to time shaken the foundation of
mighty empires, has not caused a wrinkle to appear on bis nobli
brow even in this miraculous age of discovery, which has created
railways, steam, electricity, photography, and by the hut powerful'
•gent we are actually enabled to take the strongest fbrtiflcations
without bloodshed,

Kot even one of the miracles of the nineteenth century has a(&cted
his noble position one Jot : he is a posterity in himself, and no throne
ever has been, or ever will be, stronger than his.

In winter, when all nature is desolate, when hoary Frost spreads
his white mantle over the myriads of defonct flowers, then this
homely king rallies round him bis subjects, to entertain, comfort, and
feed them, and make them happy, even when nature has almost refused
to humanity her powerful sendee. This mighty monarch, Eloise, is no
other than the tluree«legged iron pot, who has done such good service
tor so many generations^ and win continue to do so if properly treated
by his subjects.

So much fbr his moral virtues; but let us see what he has been
doing, and if we can make him do anything more, and that in ac-
oordance with the enlightenment oi the nineteenth century. You
will perhaps say, that it is dangerous to try to make any change in
a government ao well established* Not at all ; my object is not to
interfere with his noble position, and deprive him of his rights. On
the contrary, I only wish to enrich bis kingdom^ which I am sure uo
sensible monarch can object to, *

Now for the immortal Pot'luck, A\l i\ici^ y^v^\^V» «x^ Vyc «s«J^
fontainio^ two gtdUnm,

30 TABI0U8 DISHES IK THE IBOK l^Of.

78. Salt Berf. — Put in a piece of six pounds, add four quarts
of cold water ; boil gently for three hours. One hour before
serving, wash clean, and cut the roots away of two cabbages,
which cut up in four pieces, and put in the pot with the meat.
When done, drain the cabbage, aud place round the beef on the
dish, and serve. Leave the broth or liquor from the meat on
the fire, put in two pounds of split peas, a little pepper and brown
sugar ; boil slowly till done, and put by, uncovered, for next day,
to drink with the cold meat. If more salt and pepper is required,
add it : if, on the contrary, it should be too salt, add more water
and a pound of potatoes. Or skim-milk may be added, and
about one pound of toasted bread, cut into dice, and put in the
soup when serving ; or half a pound of flour, mixed with a pint
of water. Every part of salted beef may be boiled thus,
using about four ounces of vegetables to every pound of meat,
instead of cabbage. Turnip-tops, brocoli-sprouts, green kale,
carrots, turnips, Swedes, parsnips, &A, Sic., may be used. 8uet
dumpling may be served with it.

The pieces of beef generally salted are the brisket, edge hone,
round, flank, skirt. The ribs, when salted, are very fine, and
much more economical than wh^i roasted. This receipt if
adopted for a fum-house; but two pounds of beef, and the
other things in proportion to be used for a small family. Bice
may be tised instead of peas.

79. Salt Pork. — ^Put four pounds of salt pork, either leg,
loin, head, belly, or feet, into the pot with six quarts of water,
and one pound of split peas. In one hour add four greens, cat
small, or turnip-tops, leeks, parsnips, &c. &c., placed in a net»
and boiled in the pot. When done, take them out, and keep
warm. Mix half a pound of flour with one pint of water, ai^
put in the pot, and stir it round. Boil for ten minntes, and serve
the meat and soup separate, and vegetables round the meat.
Pieces of bacon, knuckles of ham, cooked in the same way, are
very nice, only they will take rather longer boiling. A tea-
spoonful of pepper may be added.

You will perceive, my friend, that I have already opened a large
field for our old hero, adding in a few lines about twenty new
subjects in the shape of receipts to his kingdom.

m r^a/.-^The flesh of the ca\£ \)emg o^ tha.t light nature,

TAmOUS DISHES tJSf THI! iBOlt POf. 31

requires more the process of roasting, or stewing, than of hoiling,
except for the purpose of making broth, for which purpose it is
superior to any other kind of meat. The only part which is
usually done so, is the knuckle, and if cooked in the following
way, is not an expensive dish : — Get a knuckle of veal and a
small knuckle of ham, weighing together about six pounds. Or
in the absence of the ham, or bacon, two pounds of the belly of
pork. Put this in the pot, and fill up with six quarts of water
and four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, cut in dice,
two onions and two turnips. BoiT gently for three hours, tako
out the meat and serve with mashed turnips, or potatoes. Plain,
or parsley and butter over. The liquor boiled up with a pound
of ground rice, mixed in a quart of cold water. Put in and boil
for half an hour, and save for the next day's use. When boiled
for next day, add any remains of the veal, cut small, and put
in it, with a little milk, if handy. Whole rice, or peas, may be
used. Pour Swedish turnips may be boiled with the veal, and
eaten with it, mashed up with pepper, salt, and butter. Vege-
tables may be omitted when scarce.

81. Mutton. — The leg, neck, breast, head, and feet, aro
most oflen boiled ; sometimes the shoulder, when not too &t,
is boiled, smothered in onions. Whichever joint it is, the
pot must be filled with water, to which six teaspoonfols of
salt and one of pepper have been added. Put in the joint and
ten peeled turnips. When either joint is done, take it out, and
serve the turnips round. Parsley and butter, capers, or chopped
gherkins, mixed with melted butter, may be served with boHed
inutton.

Save the liquor for the next day, add to it half a pound of
Scotch barley and a pound of any vegetables that may be in
season. BoU for one hour, and serve with toasted bread. Or
instead of barley, two pounds of potatoes, sliced, and boiled
with the vegetables, make a nice soup. For every pound of
this joint, let it cook fifteen minutes.

82. JECam. — A ham of about fourteen pounds will take about
four hours, and ought to be boiled in a three-gallon pot. Put
in the ham, knd fill up with water : skim off the scum as it
rises ; if wanted to be eaten cold, allow it to get cold in the
pot. If it is an old ham, it should be soaked foY t^^V^'^\\ss^a.^
preTiousl/, Borne carrots, turnips, aad o\iiet N^^<Ei\a5^«ye»^"Qi»:|

32 OK PfiUdE&TIira fiAlId AND HktO^,

be boiled, witb also a bunch of sweet herbs, which will
improve the flavour of the ham. If the liquor is used for soup,
a couple of cow heels may be boiled with it, which may be eaten
separately, or cut up in the soup, which should be strained. Or,
fry ten onions, sliced, until nearly brown ; add to them half a
pound of flour, stir well in, then add some of the liquor from the
ham, until it is rather thick ; put into a tureen, and pour more
over it, and serve with slices of bread. Or instead of onions,
use cabbage or leeks.

As many cottagers kill their own pigs, and cure the hams and
bacon, and often boil only half the ham at a time, the knuckle
part should be boiled last, and the yellow fat, if any on it, should
be cut away.

IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON CUBING HAMS AND

BACON.

Tons of ham and bacon are yearly wasted throughout the country
for want of proper attention and judgment, in allowing the fat to get
rancid. Instead of han^g them up, as is the custom, to a low
ceiling, in every cottage or fiirmer's kitchen, the consequence of
which is, that the continual heat turns the fat and flesh of such a quad-
ruped as dry as a mummy, while, by the following simple rules, they
would keep equally as long without undergoing this antique Egyptian
process.

To prove to you the truth of my remarks — about six months ago,
I was on a visit to our excellent friend, William Tucker, Esq., of
Coriton Park, near Axminster, Devon, when all the neighbourhood
was searched to get a couple of home-cured country hams ; however,
no such thing was to be found ; every one of them bought were dried
to chips. GHbe fat of the first one we operated on, when sawn in
two, (for we could not cut it in the ordinary way,) was of a blackish
yeUow, and the meat of the same colour as rotten wood, only much
harder. Being anxious to see the person who had so effectively
"preserved" this ham, a very natty, clean old woman was brought to
me ; and on showing her the bone, and asking her for the receipt,
she said she did not know how it was done, but her son Thomas did,
and she knew he would be glad to give me the receipt, to which
proposition I strongly objected, at the same time writing down the
following receipt, which she said her son would doubtless |bllow.
After you have pickled your ham or bacon for either winter or
summer use, dry the moisture with a doth, and hang it in your

VABIOUS DISHES IK THE BLACK POT. 33

kitchen for about three weeks, or tmtil the outside begins to crystal-
lize ; then remove it to your dairy, or any other dampish place, for a
few days; then place it in your kitchen again, and so on, backwards
and forwards, three or four times, till perfectly dry, and quite sound;
if any part should happen to get yeUow and randd, scrape it off,
rubbing the spot with a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour; but
be sure you don't keep it eighteen months, as it appears the old
woman's son did; so that, with all the indulgence of nature, who
allows us to preserve meat, by means of pickling it, for some con-
siderable time, yet common sense tells us, that it will not last for
ever. Ham, when well cured by experienced hands, can be kept
good for several years. The fault I before mentioned, exists in every
county, not excepting Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which two latter,
being ham counties, of course the evil does not run to so great an
extent. I daresay, Eloise, you will fancy this ooimtry conversation
rather too long to be pleasant. You may be right, as far as its value
as reading for the drawing-room goes, but let me tell you again, that
if these simple plans were adopted, more than one hundred thousand
tons of meat would be saved throughout the kingdom yearly, and
made to feed man rather than wasted as it is at present.

LAMB.

I think I onght not to mention this innocent and playful little
animal, but on second consideration, and remembering that King
Alfred once sought shelter in a cottage, and it being possible that
from accident, or some other cause, that a cottager might find him-
self unexpectedly honoured by a guest, to whom he would like to
give a delicacy, which could not be done better in the elaborate
kitchens of the most wealthy, than in the old iron pot of the most
humble abode.

It is mre that lamb is partaken of by the labourer, as he requires
more strengthening nourishment for his hard-looking fi'ame, which
can digest everything eatable, without the aid of medical science.
These delicacies are left to those who would give a great deal if tlicy
could possess the good appetite and the organic mastication of a
labouring man.

83. Boiled Leg of Lamb, — Pat six qnarts of water into the pot,
with six teaspoonfals of salt ; when boiling put in the lamb, boil
dowly for one hour ; remove the scum as it rises ; serve it with
plain melted butter, or parsley and butter, or caper sauce ; boiled
tnmips or spinach. The broth may be made into soup the
same as the mutton.

84 Boiled 5a6&tV.*-Stuff a rabbit as Ko, 4fi4i\ igviV, m Y^H^^KCk.

34 VAxiovs mmrn in tee black I'ov.

or twelve large ontons, with four quarts of water ; boil thetn till
tender, then add the rabbit, simmering slowly for one hour, if
large; dish it up, keeping it warm; take out the onions, chop
them, and put into a pan or the pot with two ounces of butter,
half a teaspoonful of pepper, four of flour ; mix all well to form
a pur^e, add a pint of milk, boil twenty minutes, stirring now
and then; pour over the rabbit and serve ; little pieces of pickled
pork boiled with it is an improvement. Use the broth as above.

85. Our Christmas IXnner^^SmaU Boiled Turkey. — ^Put
into the pot four quarts of water, three teaspoon^ils of salt^
one of pepper, have tlie turkey ready stuffed, as No. 464; when
the water boils, put in the turkey, and four pieces of saitt
pork or bacon, of about half a pound each, or whole, if you
prefer it; also add half a pound of onions, one of white
celery, six peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil slowly
for one hour and a half, mix three ounces of flour with two
ounces of butter; melt it in a small pan, add a pint of the
liquor &om the pot, and half a pint of milk, the onions and
celery taken out of the pot, and cut up aiid added to it; boil for
twenty minutes, until it ia thickish ; serve the turkey on a dish,
the bacon separate, and pour the sauce over the bird.

A turkey doae in this way is delicious. With41ie liquor, in
which you may add a little colouring, a vermicelli, rice, or clear
vegetable soup can be made ; skim off the fat, and serve.

The above with a plum pudding boiled the day before, and
rewarmed in boiling water in the pot whilst eating the soup
and turkey, and the addition of potatoes, baked in the embers,
under the grate, is a veiy excellent dinner, and can all be done
with the black pot.

Fowls and Chickens may be done the same way, giving only
half-an-hour for chickens, and three quarters for fowls.

86. A cheap Tripe Dinner, — Sometimes the cuttings of tripe^
or pig's chitterlings, or even a cow-hed, can be had very cheiqp, in
which case ihej should be cut into square pieces ; peel eight good
onions, and ten large potatoes, for every four pounds of the meat ;
lay some of the potatoes at the bottom of the pot, season with salt
and pepper, then some of the tripe, then onions and potatoes^
until all is in ; then mix a quarter of a pound of flour with three
guarts of irater; mix smooth, and boil gently for two hours |

Kam and senre. This will make enough, food for a family of
tweke, and cost about one shilling and sixpence.

87. Calve^9 Sead and Feet — If by any chance either of
these articles are to be bought cheap, which is sometimes the
case in London or any market town, cut the head open, take
out the brains, put it in the pot with six teaspoonfuls of
salt, two of pepper, four onions, parsley, and a little thyme ;
put in six quarts of water, in which mix one quarter of a pound
of flour ; being placed, set it to boil gently, skim it occasionally,
boil three hours ; just before serving, add a wineglass of vinegar ;
•erve with parsley and butter, alone, or with the brains, cleaned
and boiled in it ; sharp sauce, No. 411.

The feet may be boiled in the same way. The liquor makes
•n ezoeUent soup £)r the next day, either thick or thin, and with
or without vegetables^ or pur^ of peas, carrots, turnips, <&c.,
or moek turtle.

86. Sheep* 9 Sead and JFW^.*— Take two sheeps* heads and cut
the sameascalfs head, and put in pot, with hsdfa pound of pearl
barley, four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, four
oniooB, and four quarts of water; boil for about two hours,
cr until tender, and serve*

Four feet added to it improve the broth. The heads when
cooked inay be egged and bread-crumbed over, and then put in
tiie oven to brown for fifteen to twenty minutes. Eat it either
plain or with sharp sauce. Calves* head is very good done the
same.

89. Curry Fishj-^VrA, into the pot four onions and two
apples, in thin slices, some bayleaf, thyme, or savory, with a
quarter of a pound of &.t or dripping, three tablespoonfuls
of salt, one tablespoonfol of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes ;
then pour in three quarts of water and one pound of rice ; boil
till tender ; add one tablespoonM of curry-powder, mixed in a
iittift water ; cut up six pounds of cheap fish the size of an e%^ ;
•id to iiifi above, and boil for twenty on thirty minutes, according
te tibe kind of fish. If salt fish is used, omit the salt. K no
bwbty da without^ but always use what you cau get.

90. 8a»ory Mice, — ^Take six pounds of bones, broken. «cqa31%
boil in ej^ qwts of water for three boTura^'hsLNm^ ^^t^'^^^c^

p8

36 VAMOtrS DISHES IK T?HE BLACK POT,

tablespoonfuls of salt, a bunch of thyme, bayleaf, and savoiy,
, if any. When done, pour it into an earthen pan, remove the
bones; the fat will do for puddings; or put the fat or two
ounces of dripping into the pot, with two onions cut thin, half a
pound of either carrots, turnips, or celery, cut thin; two tea-
spoonMs of sugar; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes,
stirring it continually ; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix
well ; then pour over the stock that has come from the bones.
Add one pound of rice previously washed ; boil till tender, and
serve. This will be found both cheap and nutritious.

91. Sice Panada. — Boil one pound of rice in four quarts of
water ; add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and two table*
spoonMs of salt. Mix with some cold water one pound of flour
or oatmeal, so that it forms a thin paste; stir in three teaspoonfrils
of curry powder, add all to the rice, boil for twenty minutes,
and serve. A quarter of a pound of butter or dripping may be
added. Should it be preferred sweet, use a quarter of a pound
of treacle instead of curry. This wiU make ten pounds of solid
food, and is good either hot or cold.

92. Peas Panada, — Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon,
or pork, into small dice ; put it in the pot with two onions, sliced,
or leeks : fry for ten minutes ; keep stirring ; then add one and
a quarter pound of split peas, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of
sugar, and one gallon of water. Boil till it becomes a pur^,
or pulp ; then add sufficient oatmeal or flour to make it vay
thick; simmer twenty minutes; keep stirring it, and serve.

Indian meal may be used, but it must be soaked ; the husk,
which floats, removed, boiled for two hours, and then added to
it. If there are no onions, Tise some sweet herbs.

This may be made sweet by omitting the bacon, and using
a quarter of a pound of treacle, and when cold, may be cut to
pieces, and given to children as food.

93. Cheese Stirabout. — ^Nearly fill the iron pot with water,
throw in tliree table tablespoonsful of salt ; when boiling, throw
in by degrees some Indian meal, — ^the quantity depends on the
quality ; on an average, if the water is soft, one pound to everj
two quarts ; that would be four pounds. When well stirred,

remove the husk with a spoon, which floats on the top. Then
throw in one poxmi of strong dieese) \)Tokfiuui pieces, or grat^

TABIOUB DISHES IN THB BLACK POT. 37

Boil for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, put it on a greasy baking-
tin, throw some more cheese on the top, put in the oven for
twenty minutes, and serve. Or, allow it to get cold, cut in
pieces, and fry,

94k Indian Meal Poullenta, — Boil the meal as above (it
must be very thick), without the cheese ; mind that it is stirred
up a great deal, or it will catch to the bottom of the pot ; pour
some into a baking-dish well greased ; cut some beef or pork,
sausages, saveloys, or black puddings, into slices, and place them
on it. Cover diis over with some more meal from the pot ;
bake for twenty minutes, and serve.

This is an excellent and cheap dish, and well worthy the
attention of all classes, now that flour has become so expensive ;
it is fit for the tables of the most wealthy, if a strong gravy is
poured over it when served. This may be made sweet with
either jam, treacle, or brown sugar.

96. Another Way, — For the above proportion, mince about
two pounds of meat, as No. 156, or liver. Mix well, then let
it get cold; cut and fry anyhow you like; of course omit
savdoys and black-puddings when meat is used.

In France, ox-liver Ib used in soup, to flavour the broth, and many
people eat it, fried or stewed. If it is in use in cooking in one
ooontry, why should we not give it a trial. The proverb says,
"what 3s good for the g^oose is good for the gander," therefore what
18 good fbr our n^hbours and allies cannot possibly be bad for us.
An ox in France Ib uncommonly like an English one, and these
quadrupeds are equally as particular in their selection of food as
ours; and if the calves', pigs', sheep's, and lambs' liver is flt for the
tables of the wealthy, why should not that of the ox be deemed good
£3r human food.

It is our duty, Elmse, in this work, to bring eveiy wholesome
kind of cheap fbod to the notice of the poor, so that with a little
exertion, they may live, and live well, with the few pence they earn,
instead ot living badly at times, and most extravagantly at others,
and not to allow nourishing food to be wasted, as it is at present.
In many parts, and even in Ireland, during the year of the famine,
those who were starving would not partake of ox-liver. These are
boaght up in that country, put into casks, with salt, sent over to a
sea-port in England; they are then subjected to a cold pressure, by
which ito liquid i9 extracted^ which I9 used for ad>3)to»i\ja^<^ «dl

38 VARIOUS DISHES m THE BLACK POP.

article in Tmiversal use ; the remans are then dried in otSDM, pounded^
and sent back to Ireland to be made into saufL

96. Stewed Ox Heart and Liver, — ^Wash the heart wellj
chop a few onions and sage, and mix with it a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and a quarter of pepper. Pat it in the hesrt,
and lay it in the pan with the top part downwards. Cut one
pound of suet in quarter of a pound pieces ; also two pounds f£
ox liver, and a little bacon, if handy. Season with three tea-
spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four or five onions, three pounds
of potatoes, and pour over three quarts of water. Place it in
the oven for three hoars, and it is done.

In this dish, dried pulse of any kind, previously soaked, may
be used with advantage, such as the white harico bean, the dried
Windsor bean, the lentil bean ; all of which may be had in the
winter time in great abundance ; and it is to be regretted that
there is not a large consumption in this country of pulse, as the
crop does not rob the ground so much as the potato, and is con-
siderably cheaper than flour. Dried yellow or green peas may
be used.

They are a good article for a tradesman to keep in stocky as
they do not deteriorate, like the potato, and only require to be
known, to be equally as much esteemed as that root.

FRENCH POT AU FEU.

{This may also he done in the iron saucepan, stewpan, or

haJdng-pan,)

I cannot expect that this truly national soup of France can be
made to perfection, or done with so much care as in that eoontry,
therefore I have simplified it, and shall call it The French CoHoffe
Fot au Feu, or French Soup.

97. Put a gallon of water in the pot, put four pounds of the
buttock of beef, or shin, or five pounds of the thick part of the leg,
three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, fbur onions, four leeks cot
in pieces, two carrots, and two good-sized turnips, three cloves, one
burnt onion, or three spoonfiils of colouring; set it on the fire; when
beginning to scum, skim it, and place the pot on one side of the fire.
Add now and then a drop of cold water; it will make it clear. Boil
four hours. Bread sliced, put into the tureen, and pour the broth,
with some of the v^etables, over j serve the meat separateii and the

TASIOUS DISHES IN ¥HB mok SAUCfiPAK. 39

If tbis dmple reeerpt is weQ attended to, yoa wffl find it u very
good soap and bouilli. If yoo run ihort of any of the regetabk^
make it gfood with oiben. If bo burnt onions or ooSouring^ the soup
will be white, instead of a sherry ooloor ; but still it wiU be good.
In France they always put in half a pound of ox-liver to every four
po«uKb of mei^ I am ssre they are too good judges over the water,
to spoil their mnpi in ftct» there the ox-UTer eests aa rnnoh as the
. meat— -dxpenee per pound ^•ther^ore it it oot with i^ vi^w of
savings but to make it better.

9Ta. Jf^reneh Bagtmi of MiUUm.'^'Siki in tibe pot a quarter
<yf a potmd of dripping : when hot; peel and eat twenty small
turnips, or ten large ones, into pieces the size of a walnut ; put
them into the iat^ and isj until brownish. Take them out, then
put into the ikt a quarter of a pound of flour ; stir round until
Drown. Tou have prepared four pounds of scrag of mutton, cut
in small pieces ; put them in> and atir round ; then add enough
water to cover the meat ; stir until boiling. MThen the mutton
is nearly done, which you will find by trjring it with a fork,
add thf tumipa} season with three teaspoonfVils off salt, one of
pepper, the dame of brown sugar, and a little bit of scraped
garlic, if handy. Any part of mutton may be used. Ba^out <^
real or lamb majr he done in this manner.

The following receipts to be done in a pid^-sized iron
saucepan.

98. Stewed JSeU,'^VfA into a saucepan a teaspoonlul of
chopped onions, half a pint of melted butter, No. 410, one tea-
spoonfol of anchovy sauce, one of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of
colouring. Cut up one pound of eels in pieces two inches long,
Tub them in a little flour and salt, put them in the pan, and stew
lor half an hour, and serve with some toasted br^ad round. A
little ale or wine may be used instead of vinegar, and the sauoa
should be thick.

99. Stetoed JEeU* Ko, 2.*'^Cut them as above, dip in flour,
and partly fry them in fat a few minutes, and stew them as abovos
and serve with toast.

100. Slels Stewed White, No. 3.-^Cnt up one pound, as
before ; put them in the pan with half a pint of milk and three-
4[iiarters of a teaspoonful of salt, half of 'pepper, half an onion,
in slices, and some sprigs of parsley. Stew gently for twenty
minutes ; mix one ounce of butter with ha\i oia qmxl«:^ q1 ^^^a>

40 YABIOUS DISHES IN THE IBON SAUCEPAN.

put in your stewpon in small pieces, stir round gently, boil foj^
five minutes, or longer, if large, and serve. The juice of a
lemon, or a little vinegar, is an improvement. Lampreys
and weaver may be done the same.

101. Cod*8 Hard Boe, — ^Tie a cod's roe in a doth, place in
a pan two quarts of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; put in
the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as
you require, put it in the dish, pour over parsley and butter, and
serve. Or e^^ sauce, or plain, with a little butter and pepper.
The remainder, when cold, may be cut into slices and semi-
fried, as fish.

102. Cod^s Sotmds, Melt, and Frill, — ^Nothing is more de-
licate than this dish. Boil thirty minutes in boiling salt and
water. Dish it up, pour thick og^ sauce over, or fennel sauce,
or black butter. No. 422. The first-mentioned, if salted, must
be well soaked.

Truly, my dear Eloise, I camiot but return you my very best
thanks for the incessant inquiries you make as to the state of my
health.

Tou blame me in your last letter for having visited the small town
of Castleford, as also the beauioful little village of Methway, while
the cholera was ra^ng in those places. Allow me to impress upon
your mind that, first of all, I have no personal fear of the epidemic^
and that I take a deal of interest in endeavouring to ascertain the
caase. Or partly so, of such an awful visitation, as my letter of the
25th of March, which has appeared in the public press, will partly
explain the cause of this calamity.* In that letter I ought to
have included Leeds, Hull, and Bradford, those immense towns of
thick fog, wealth, manufitcturers, charming habitations, palaces, bad
drainage, and r€»l black — ^not sea, but— river, which, for want of
proper drainage, if not attended to, will always subject those placas
to such epidemics.

The working classes of the commercial districts of Yorkshire earn
vexy good wages, though, at the same time, they work very hard;
thdr ignorance in the science of oooUng is deplorable, and, without
boasting, Eldse, I must say that I have been of some service to
these same people, in improving the condition of their homes, as three
parts of the wives of this hard-working class are utterly devoid of any
knowledge of domestic economy. Cookery to them is almost un-
known I but I must say they are willing to learn, and I hope this -

* See end of the book.

TABIOUB DISHBS IH THE XSON BAUOEPAV. 41

work will be the meami of terminating that which I have lo gaoco8B«
fully begun.

Respecting my visiting prisons, hospitals, lunatic alliums, work-
houses; also the interior of mines, conlpit^ &c. Ac.; and though I
must admit that those localities do not show the brightest part of
the mirror of life, still, you must not fancy that these people are all
unhappy; «n the contrary, they are as contented as I am, and not a
day passes but what I teach them something in my way, at the
same time leamhig many little things from them, and I tiiink you
will own that my correspondence pf^takes more of a jovial than a
morose nature.

Such is my opinion of that large class of society, termed. the
million, after nearly twelve months stay among them, throughout
the united queendom.

IMPORTANT REMARKS ON COD-LIVER OIL.

But now to a very important culinary, and I think medical discovery,
which I owe to my persevering visits to various public charities in the
towns through whidi I passed. This happened at Hull, about three
months ago, from which town, if you recollect, I forwarded you the
drawing of the Station Hotd, where I was staying — I call it the
Monument Hotel, being so large and beautifuL But to come back to
the question; one of the proprietors, Mr. Jordan, on my asking if I
could visit the infirmary, kindly proposed to conduct me there, and
introduce me to the governor, which was done to my entire satisfac-
tion ; and I must say that the mck are not better attended to in any
dmilar establishment I have visited in the country.

Being aware of the immense quantity of cod-liver oil taken by
delicate persons, now-a-days, and the great benefit derived from its
use, I asked the medical officer present his opinion of its efficacy.
"Nothing can be better," was ha reply, "in many cases. But,"
said he, " many patients cannot take it, being of sudi an unpleasant
taste, more especially children, and as we in this establishment use
the second quality, from motives of economy, it is doubly unpleasant."
I myself tasted some, and must say that I found it anything but
relishing.

After bidding adieu to the doctor, I and my host left, and while
returning to my hotel, I thought that something could be done to
alter the present unpleasant way of administering it. Accordingly,
upon reaching home, I sent for the following: —

103. One pound of fresh cod-liver; I then peeled and steamed two
pounds of nice floury potatoes, then cut the liver in four pieces, placed
it over the potatoes, and then steamed them, letting the oil firam the
liver ftll on the potatoes; I then made some incisions in the liver
with a knif^ to extract the remaimng (»i» «!K«sirasdA ^^fi<EiKBi% "o:^

42 vAmovs mssBS m tkb mom nxvCKfAiu

the liver, which was eaten with a little melted hatter and ftnehory
saaoe. The potatoes were served up with a little salt and pepper.
Both dishes were found extremely good.

The following is another way of extracthig the oil of a oqpl'f Ihrer,
with the aid oi that abundant article, rice.

104. Biee and Cod Xn;e9».*-^Boil half a poiand of rice in two
quarts of water. When nearly done, remove three parts d tJie
water ; then put over your rice a pound of ood*8 liver, cut in
large dice. Put the saucepan in a slow oveli Ibr about thirty
minutes, by which time it wiU be nicely cooked. Then take the
liver out, whicb serve as above directed. Stir the rice with a
fork, and serve it ; if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt
and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow
£re, for otherwise it would bum, and be unwholesome as food.

Of course you can easily see what a blessing such diet as this
must be to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by
mixing it with the food) it •ntur^Iy loses that rancid q^uality for
which it is proverbial.

105. Tapioca and Cod Liver. — ^Boil a quarter of a pocmd of
tapioca till tender in two quarts of water ; drahi it in a cullender,
then put it back in the pan ; season with a little salt and pepper»
add half a pint of milk, put ovet one pound of fresh cod liver,
cut in eight pieces. Set your pan near the fire to simmer
slowly for half an hour^ oi; a little more, till your lirer is quite
oooked. Press on it with a spoon, so as to get as much oil into
the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the
tapioca. If too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few
minutes ; stir round, add a little salt and pepper, and serve. If
you have a slow oven, use it in preference to the fire; but if you
are without an oven, here is another good way of cooking it ;

106. Put three inches depth of water in a largish pan ; then
put the pan containing the tapioca in the above-mentioned pan ;
let it simmer till quite done. It will take about an hour. By
adopting this plan, all fear of burning is obviated ; afberwarda
remove the liver, which serve as at No. 103.

107. Sago, or semolina, may be done the same way, and by
adding an egg, it will make a delicate pudding ; or by cuttingf
the liver in small dice, you may add it to your pudding, putting

IB a little more milk to inake it moist i then add ft couple more

VABIOTTS DISSM IK THS IBON SAUCEPAN. 43

eggs, well beaten, and mix ; putting it in a basin, preriotuily well
battered; then let it simmer in a stewpan for half an hour, or
till set ; then turn it out on a dish ; sauce with a little plain
melted batter, anchovy, or parsley and butter.

A little stringent food, such as the above, will be found v^ry
refreshing, even to persons in good health.

'108. Bice may be also turned to good account ; and I do not
see why, after having taken the liver out, and adding four tea-
spoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, one ounce of butter, and a little
lemon peel, it would not ma^e a very good sweet pudding. Pour
over it, when done, a little melted butter with a spoonful of
sugar, some lemon juice, or wine ; or treacle, for children.

109. Cod jRoe and Cod Xtv^.— Buy a cod's liver and roe,
cut open the skin which surrounds it ; put the eggs in a basin,
pour water over them, mashing them with your hand, to separate
them, throwing away the water ; add half a pound of salt, and
a teaspoonM of pepper; let them soak all night, afterwards
washing them well in two or three waters, leaving about a gill
at the bottom ; then put about two pounds of cod liver over it,
cut in six or eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very
slow fire, or in an oven, for one hour ; then take out the liver,
which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted butter in the
xoe, when it will be ready.

110. Or for any one in health four hard-boiled eggs, chopped,
may be added, or three raw ones instead, and make a pudding
of it ; pour it in, steam it in water till well set, then turn it out,
and sauoe over with any fish sauce you like. The hard roe of
any fish may be dressed like this, especially the roe of sturgeons.

CABTHUSIAN OF MEAT AND VEGETABLES.

Tou will perhaps be surprised at the name I have ^ven to this
carious mixture (^ vegetable produce, but you will immediately per-
ceive that I have taken it from those well known monks who took
vows to partake of no animal food, something like our strict vege-
tarians of the present day ; but those jolly old dogs in former days
were obliged, at times, to break their vow ; as, however, it could not
be done openly, they were obliged to mask the object cooked in a
. covering of vegetables^ and thus cheated th^ oath and thslx cctroL

44 VARIOUS DISHES IN THCS IRON SAUCEPAN,

Carthusian, or Chartreuse, in French cookery, means any artide of
food, such as meat, game, or poultry, so surrounded by vegetables, that
even a v^^tarian would be deceived with its appearance, while mtting
at dinner, and would not find out his mistake until helped with some
of the dishes.

111. 1*^ Lesson, — ^If in winter, cut crossways, in four, a
large savoy cabbage, or two small ones ; take off a few of the
outside green leaves ; wash the cabbage well, then put on the
fire either an iron pot, or a three-legged black pot ; put in about
three quarts of water; when boiling, add your cabbage, boil
them for ten minutes, or a little longer, then drain them in a
cullender or cloth, pressing out the water ; cut away the stalk
from each piece, then chop your cabbage, though not too fine,
letting it weigh about two pounds ; when thus prepared, which
will be our proportion of vegetable to one pound of meat;
previous to chopping them upon the board, season with one tea-
spoonful of salt, that is, if salt meat be used ; two ditto if the
meat be fresh ; one teaspoonful of pepper at aU times.

Suppose we select for this, our first lesson, three middling-
sized pigs' tongues. You have put them to boil with your
cabbage, then cut them through lengthways, then place at the
bottom of your pan about an inch deep of cabbage, and half an
inch round the inside of the pan, placing your meat in the
centre, thus making the meat invisible to the eye when turned
out of the pot ; when filled, add a quarter of a pound of butter
or dripping, two wineglasses of vinegar, if English, or one, if
Prench, one gill of water ; set it on a brick, placed in the oven,
for two hours ; then open your pan, and place over your cabbage
a tea saucer ; press out all the gravy in a cup, pass a knife round
your pot, then put a dish over the mouth inside downwards,
turn the pot or basin upside down, wlien your carthusian wiU turn
out like a pudding : pour the gravy or bread cromb sauce over,
and serve.

112. 2n(7 Lesson, — ^The above may be done in pudding-
basins, or in deep oval pie-dishes, and either baked slowly as
above, or steamed as puddings, but as there wiU be no cover to
it, put over a cover of pudding-paste (see No. 319) ; fix over as for
pies or puddings, making several small holes in the paste, and
only putting half the moisture in. When done, remove the paste,
wJucb put on the dish jrou intend to senre it in; press out the

VAfilOUd DISHES t^ *mti mOir SAtJC£^AK. io

gravy, turn your Carthusian out on the paste, already laid on the
dish; then proceed with the gravy as above described; red
cabbage is also very good, but requires double the quantity of
vinegar, and more pepper; proceed the same; they require
boiling in water about thirty minutes, if at all large, and rather
old, as they are at Christmas.

113. Srd and General Lesson. — Having given you the base
or foundation in the above receipts on animal food, I will now
in a few words describe the extraordinary variations that can be
made with this favourite dish of the best judges of good cheer,
—viz., the monastic fraternity of olden times.

Instead of the above, you may use pig's feet, cheek, pickled
pork, bacon, ham, liver of all kinds, previously fried, or partly so,
sausages, black-pudding, or salt beef, previously boiled and cut
in slices, or any part of fresh meat previously roasted, any
remains of poultry or game may be done the same by cutting
them in slic^ ; if, however, they have not been previously cooked,
ihey will take two hours instead of one. Pigeons, partridges, and
all kinds of small birds, may be put in rows, only they should
be larded or stuffed previously.

This will give you an idea of the various ways in which this
dish can be made, as far as animal food goes.

The following will, by omitting the meat, be applicable for
vegetarians.

VEGETABLE PUDDING.

114. 4dh and General Lesson for the Use of the Vegetarian,
—You must observe, Eloise, that the above receipts are all
made with cabbage only. I have made them so, because, while
travelling last winter, I found that every cottager grew cabbage,
while no other vegetable was to be seen in his garden ; but now
that summer is here, I will give you the receipts m the way the
monks used to make them; and, mind, tliey were all good
cooks in those days. They always had a foundation of cabbage
or greens, or some kind of Brussels sprouts, one pound of
either of the above done as in the first receipt; then they
added a pound of either boiled carrots, turnips, parsnips, beet-
roots, artichokes, potatoes, leeks, celery, or onions; boil the
pound of whatever you chooae ftoia VJaa ^N^'C^KR»^'st\ ^fess^

46 BEiaBKS ON THB FOOD OF TBA F001£L

it with your cabbage; seaaon, aad proceed as with cabbage only.
Spue-grass, cut small, or peas, may also be boiled and mixed,
but not chopped ; a little sugar is an improvement to vegetables,
as it varies the flavour ; use any aromatic herbs and spice you
choose, but always in proportion.

You may also, for a change, pour either a little white or
brown sauce over (see sauces), but observe that the vegetables
must always be kept firm enough to turn out as a pudding ;
either serve in a pan : or, to save trouble, turn the whole into
a tureen, or in a large dish, that is, if for a large family, but the
proper way is as first described. In fact, there is no end to the
ingenuity which may be displayed in the variation of this dish ;
and to the cottager, with his small plot of garden-ground,
wherein he can produce sufficient vegetables for his iamily, it is
one of great economy, besides being exceedingly conducive to
health at all times.

GENERAL IGNORANCE OP THE POOR IN COOKING.

Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cat firom the bone^ and very
ftesih, at about twopence-hal^enny to threepence per pound, in
London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and
contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned
to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it
requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in
many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes
of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article
of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, X asked an old lady how
she cooked it. " Sure enough," said she, ** by fire." " But, my dear
woman," I inquired, "how long do you cook it?" "Ah!" she
replied, " sometimes as long as an hour, and boiling Vike the very
deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer."
" And pray," f asked, " what do you do with the water P" " Faith,
there is no wat^ left, but otdy black mudc at the bottom of the pot,
which I throw away," was her reply.

Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Ebise, as
regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to
teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it.
Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would be much
better employed for this porpose, and would ultimately decrease the
parish rates.

But I am digresi^g fi^om the conversation I had with this old
dame. When 1 fyand she was so ignoEa&t, I asked her if I shoolcl

•fizatABitfl dr ¥uiK food 6f thb poob. 47

tmae and teach hor bow to cook, properly, an ox cheek. ** No,
^ikith," said abe, ** I have no money to throw away, not even enough
to bay another." Sanguine as I always am upon my fiivourite
theme^ I offered to brmg one with me, as a present, the following
day, and gave her sixx)ence to buy some sand to dean her iron pot,
whidi I found done on my arrival the following day; she having
also pnrchaied two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then
produced tiie ok cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold
water, and four teaspoonfbls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which
artides w«re given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire
was made up^ and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then
removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went
round to pay my other visits.

At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large
basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured
the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish,
and aat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups
mih a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise,
cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After
tasting it, and finding it very good, she stud she would show
her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so,
I would give her more like recdpts, when she exclaimed, " Bless
yon, ma'am, do ; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you
do it." In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I was
about to retire, wishing her goodbye. "Lor*, ma'am," said she,
" you would not go without taking a drog of the * crature.' " To my
astonishiiient, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and oiTered
to me. From its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feci
confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have
proved to be real Hue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of
vitriol, Ac

This opened to me the iecret of the emaciated looks of the thou-
sands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account
for the remainder of my diange out of the sixpence. I, however,
aent her the fdlowing receipts, of course omitting her favourite
seasoning — gin.

Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it
occurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was
not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found ux elderly matrons
and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out
the writing. The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he
said, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school.
My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of the
conndl away ; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts
ready wluch they accor£ngly did» afterwards giving several copies

48 fnfi GMDlEOi^ AKD pRitma-PA^.

115. 1^^ Lesson. — Eub an ox cheek (middle size, or half a large
one) with four teaspooniuls of salt and one of pepper ; put it into
the iron pot, with' four quarts of cold water; set it on the fire to
boil ; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently for three
hours aft«r it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for
puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts
of very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and
tender, will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an im-
provement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some
leaves of it, or onions, <&c., may be added in boiling. Put the
head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it.

116. 2nd Lesson, — Or any small quantiiy of mixed vegetables
may be used. They should sdl be cut into dice, and not peeled, but
well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion.
One pound of rice, at the cost of twopence-hal^nny, when
added, is a great improvement ; or half-a-pint of split peas, or
barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal
soaked the over-night, or a little fiour to make the gravy or
broth thick. It may be varied in several ways ; but the chief
point is, when once boiled, simmer slowly till tender, which you
may ascertain by piercing it with a fork ; if it sticks to it, it is
not sufficiently done. Sheep and lamb's head may be done the
same way, but will only take one quarter ot the time ; season
accordingly.

This receipt is applicable to all kinds of hard meat.

THE GRIDIRON AND FRYTNG-PAN.
The Sesults oj their Mivahry in Domestic Coolcery,

YoxTB favourite utensil, the frying-pan, Eloise, is, without doubt^
the most useful of all kitchen implements, and like a good-natured
servant, is often imposed upon, and obliged to do all the work, while
its companion, the gri^ron, is quietly reposing in the chimney
corner.

The following scene was witnessed by those two faithM servants^
the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog
of a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked iiying-
pen.

The husband, who is employed by a railway contractor, and a man

who is what the world calls middling well off, and who has risen by

hiaown exertions and abilities xrom a more humble position, arrives

HEAT OK ORIDIBOK. 49

home, and aslcs his wife what ho can have for dinner, the honr of her
dinner, and that of the children, having long past. ** What would
yon like to have, my dear ?** was her question. ** Anything you
have.** " Let's see ! why — we have nothing, but I can get you a
mutton chop, or steak." ** Can I have nothing else ; I am tired of
thops and steaks.'* " Why, my dear, what can be hotter than a
chop or a steak ?'* " Well, let me have a steak." " You had that
yestq^rday, my dear : now, let me get you a chop. I always make it
my duty to study your comfort ; and as I have been reading, not
long since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr.
Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesonib as
a change of food, since which time I have made a point of varying
our bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work." " Very well,
sehd for two .chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns,
saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak.
**Vcry well. Tliat wiU do as well, will it not, my dear?" to
her hosband, who is reading a periodical." " Yes ; but how long
will you keep me here before it is done ?** " Not a minute, my
love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends,
but quickly returns, saying, " Please, ma'am, the fire 'is not fit
for brcMling." " Well, fry it," is her answer. The husband, who
hears it, exclaims, " Drat the -frying-pan, it is always so greasy."
** Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." " Not at all,"
VTBs his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming, " Bother the
place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must
go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming
the door, makes his exit in a passion.

The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having
upset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning.
The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent
out for them, but does not return in proper time. Tlie husband
arrives, and finds all in darkness. They qunrrcl, and swear they
must separate in order to " live comfortably togetJier" Jane comes
home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the
first thmg in the morning, by whidi time, however, their tempers
have had time to cool, and Jane is acoor(^gly remstated in her
fbnner pofdtion.

Moral (not on fable, but on truth) : A man disappointed in some-
thing to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. li he has
no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit.
He is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the
dram-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not
altogether his fi:iult, the dinner was not eatable, and he must luwo
tometlung to support liim, which he foolishly finds in spirits ; and thus,
ly the want of attention on the part ol the wiie, is made what ho is.
In no country in the world do the annals oi \>o\\c(i comx\a \^\t^\; ^\^«^

B

so lOSAT OK OBIDIBOK.

scenes as are daily noticed in the public journals of London, which
the increase of punishment by a modem law has not yet succeeded in
putting down.

Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is adyisable to
read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, page 55|
as it would be tautology to repeat it here.

IMPORTANT BEMARKS ON STEAK AND EUMP STEAK.

Broiled Steaks and Mwmp Steak. — Previous to cooking a
steak, nurse your fire ; it will well repay your trouble, and jdso
remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that
very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a
steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is
good and well cooked, also ^ the hour you intend to dine, and
half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes,
stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you
will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron ; and every
article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a
chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following
lesson : —

117. First Lesson. — ^For first quality of steak, the meat ought
to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast
will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a hal£
that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick ; if it should be
cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a
chopper ; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about
five inches above the fire ; if thicker, six inches ; taking it as
an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in
proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat
which accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak,
or it will be too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some
pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop :
the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy
in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs ;
but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it
When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure of
tlie £nger.

MEAT Oir GBIBIBOir. 51

Second Lesson. — ^Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the
fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In sucb
cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is
done; then the gravy will not be pressed out. If car^ully
attended tOf this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it
spoils the best of meat.

The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters
of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before
a nice dear fire, is from twelve to fifbeen minutes. If turned four
times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served imme-
diately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will
eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Bump Steak
Club.

Third Lesson. — Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish,
others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds ; all these should
be left to the party who partakes of it ; it is the duty of the
cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and
pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will
require one and a half teaspooniuls of salt, and a half of pepper.

But if required flavoured arid seasoned to satisfy a hlasi
appetite, then the following should be adopted.

118. Mump Steak with Eschalot — Chop up one eschalot
very fine^ mix it with a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper,
mb the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife ;
place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not
required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with
eschalot.*

JRump Steak with Eschalot JButter.^^xit up two eschalots
very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread
over the under part pf the steak when dishing up.

JSun^ Steak with Mditre d'JECStel Butter. — When yoiur
steak is just done, rob it over with an ounce of prepared butter,
as No. 425.

J^evilled Steaik. — ^Mix in a plate two teaspoonMs of salt, half

* K eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on a
separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 458, and serve two tea-
spoQDsM to every pound of steak.

E 2

52 HEAT ON OSIDIBON.

of cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire;
after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredge
it with flour ; do the same with the other side. Broil as ahove.

Curry Powder , mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone,
can he ruhbed over the same way.

119. Wakefield Steak. — Cut a steak one inch thick, score it
on each side, crossways. Piit into a taxt dish two teaspoonfuls
of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped
tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar; put the steak in it for six hours; turn it now and
then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling,
dredge it lightly with some flour, while doing, and serve with
butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they
sometimes use the Wamcliffe sauce.

Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fined,
served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This
dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the
culinary reputation they fonnerly possessed, and which they first
acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen
and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter
the fiewr-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other
pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook
according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress.

120. Mutton Chops. ^ — These may all be cooked and flavoured
like the steaks, but in many cases garlic . is used instead of
eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the
end of a fork, and nib both sides of the chop lightly with it.
Chopped mushrooms are veiy good with broiled chops. Any
fleshy part of the sheep may be broiled the same way.

121. Mutton Chop. — In my opinion, two chops out of a fine
South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick,
leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear
fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and
pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, with a nice mealy
potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can
be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half
of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.

* JPor description of chops sec page 55, Frying-Pan,

UEAT ON GBITIBOK. 53

122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above^ A veal chop,
nicely cut irom the leg, oaght to weigh one pound. I am of
opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is
an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other
ways, it must be done so ; but that so delicate a kind ot food
should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is
what I do not approve 'of. It ought to be wrapped up in a
sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet
of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap ; the chop laid on one
half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no
gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the
fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the
paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may bo
placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.

123. Veal Cutlet. — ^A pound of veal not more than half an
inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should bo
broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as
the former ; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and
broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives,
eschalots, or onions, may be added.

124. Pork Chops, — ^These should be cut not quite so thick
as mutton, and the skin lefb on. They will take one third
longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion,
previous to broiling, is an improvement.

These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horse-
radish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c.

125. Calves* Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces
not thicker than half an inch ; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon,
for ten miimtes : serve with a little currant jelly and butter in tho
dish, under the pieces of heart.

It is also excellent (see Ko. 119) marinaded for a few hours,
and the following may be done any way like steak.

Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done like it.

Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and
broQed with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in
it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise,
that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to
these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different.

126. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch
ihicky and broiled before the fire very close «ad. c^v^*, ^^^ ^^

54 HEAT OH GBmntoisr.

take from mghi to ten minntes. Throw some pepper and salt
over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy.
Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal.

127. Broiled Ham. — ^A slice of ham a quarter of an inch
thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fird^ turning
it often.

Bacon about the same.

128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and
done slowly : they will take ten minutes ; beef sausages, about
eight minutes ; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst.

129. Black Puddings. — ^The^e are often partaken of cold, after
having been boiled, but they are best after broiling : they should
be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and
will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.

130. Cold Meat BroHed.-^The remains of cold meat cut into
slices a quarter of an inch thick ; season with salt and pepper ;
when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and
serve with a little ketchup in the dish.

This may be varied with any saucei or diopped herbs.

131. Broiled Bones. — When these have a little meat on them,
they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little
butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they
may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and
rather brown.

Eemains of poultry, game, &c., should be done the same.

132. Devilled Bone. — The remains of the rib of a sirloin of
beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of
fowls, turkeys, &c., should be slightly cut all round with a
knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonM
of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled gently
until hot through and brown. Serve very hot.

133. Broiled and Devilled Toast.-^Toast a round of bread,
cut a quarter of an inch thick ; mix in a plate one ounce of
butter, half a teaspoonM of cayenne, one teaspoonftd of mustardi
one teaspoonful of Eelish, or Sauce ; spread it over the toast,
and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served
on it.

134 Broiled Kidmeys. — Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the
middle, so aa nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle |

UBAT IN FBTIKG-PAK. B5

nm a slcewer through them, that they may remain open ; broil
gently; five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season
with salt and pepper ; rub a piece of butter over, and serve. They
can be served on toast, or \7ith any sauce.

Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidneys, may be done the same
way, but the two latter will take mudi longer, and should be
better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them.

136. ^Broiled FowU^ Pigeons, ^c, — These, if whole, should
be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered
to keep them so, or beaten flat with the chopper. Season
well with pepper and salt ; well grease a double gridiron, and
place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire ; turn often.
A fowl, if small, will take ieom twenty-five to thirty minutes ;
if large, three quarters of an hour ; pigeons about ten minutes.
Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may
be egged and bread crumbed.

FRYING-PAN.— INTRODUCTION.

This uleM utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of
the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery — for I
have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' cUggings, on
the back of a frying-pan, for want of a table ; bat in your letter you
suggest the necessity of paying particular attention to it, as it is
the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot bat
admire your constant devotion to the bachelors : you are always in
fear that this unsodable dass of individuals should be uncomfortable.
For my part, I do not pity them, and would not g^ve myself the
slightest trouble to comfort them, espedally after they have passed
the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and
ei\joy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a
wifo to manage their homei, and attend to more manly parsaits than
cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old
housekeeper has gone to bed; or lighting the fire when they get up
in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago;
and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and
want that utennl of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and
fishy, not having been deaned since he last dined at home.

No, my dear Eloise, I assure you I do not feel at all inclined
to add to thdr comforts, though you may do what you like with the
Ibllowing receipts, which are equally as applicable tci t>hsGDi^«a\(^**^s^
humble abode of the married finterxuty •

5G HEAT IN PRYING-PAS'.

Ton will also find^ in these receipts, that the usual complaint of
food being greasy by frying, is totally remedied, by sauteing the meat
in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has att^ed a pi'oper
degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold &t and letting it soak
while melting.

I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one
hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (con-
sidering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you
in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can
be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But
I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a
mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked
which are called fried, it would answer to the French word sauiS,
or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be
immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detmled to
you in our " Modem Housewife." To frizzle, saut^, or, as I will
now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any olea^nous
substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan
by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be
placed therein. To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so
that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean —
a great deal depends on this.

I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron; that is, if
the pan is properly used.. As regards economy, it is preferable, securing
all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used.

All the following receipts can be done with this simple hatterie de
cuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the pakce, or in the
bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.

136. 1*^ IJesson. To Semi-fry Steak, — Having procured a
3t€ak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about
one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with
one ounce of butter or iat ; let it remain until the fat is melted,
and rather hot ; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and
dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat ; then
turn the other side in it, and let it remain for two or three
minutes, according to the heat of the fire ; then turn it : it wiH
take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on
each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, or
it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all
the nutriment ; in frwt, the pan should never be left, but care-
fully watched ; on this depends the advantages of this style and
mode of cookery. K the object is not turned often, it will be
noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of the
meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be
Jost, instead of remaining in tliQ me%\>, ^oa&oni ^ItU a tea-

MEAT IK FBTIKa-PAK. 67

spoonM of salt and a quarter of pepper ; then feel with the finger
that it is done, remove it with a fork, inserted in the fat, and
serve very hot.

So much for the first lesson, the details of which must ho
learnt, as it will then simplify every other receipt.

137. 2tnd Lesson, — Rememher that the thickness is never to
exceed one inch, nor he less than half an inch, and to he as
near as possihle the same thickness all over. A good housewife
will ohject to one cut in any other way ; hut if it cannot he
avoided, press it out with the hlade of the knife, to give it the
proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean, and place
it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest
the wall, to prevent the dust getting in.

Now, dear Eloise, yon will perhaps say that the foregoing lessons
are too long for so simple a thmg as a steak, as everyhody think
themselves capahle of cooking it without tuition, hut having now
given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without
learning will know hotter for the future, and pay a little attention
to so important a suhject.

138. — The ahove lesson may he varied hy adding to the pan,
with the seasoning, a few chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley,
mushrooms,pickle8,semi-fned at the same time or after, fmd poured
over the steak ; or when the steak is dished up, a little hutter,
or chopped parsley and hutter, or two spoonfuls of either Relish,
Harvey's, or any other good sauo^ that may he handj'. Pour
the fat of the steak into a hasin for future use. Some Med
potatoes may he served with it, or the following additions made:
after the steak is done, slice a quarter of a pound of onions to
each pound of steak, and a little more fat ; firy quickly, and when
brown place round the steak ; pour the gravy over.

Some mushrooms, if small, whole, if large, sliced, put in the
pan and fried, are excellent.

Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the
steak is removed, Med a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the
liquor and two of water ; when on the point of boiling pour over
the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and
gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers* butter rubbed over,
(see No. 427,) or half a pint of oyster sauce, or mussel sauce, or
horseradish sauce ; or a Httle flour dredged over the steak, and a
little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little
colonrixig or ketchup, and then poured ovec tib<^ %^^%

58 MEAT m fllYraG-]^AK,

These receipts can be continued and multiplied to any extent,
entirely depending on the taste of the cook.

A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook ; then,
when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a
nice brown ; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and
mutton chops, poultiy and game.

139. Another Way. — ^When your steak is partly done,
dredge both sides over with a spoonM of flour, dish up, pour
out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan; let it simmer a few
minutes, — it will make a nice thick sauce.

139a. Beefsteak, toiih Semi-fried Po^a^oe*.— Rub and semi*
fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie
in the pan while the steak is doing ; turn them as often as you
do the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half
a gill of water in the pan imder the steak — ^the moisture of the
potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat,
but it will be foimd very good.

140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi fry Chops of aU Jcinds,
Lesson 1. — First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat ; if it is,
cut some off. Always ol^rvethat a mutton chop should be one tbird
fkt, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the
loin, let them be about an inch in thickness. Very little attentiosi
will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Sloise, that
an ill-cut chop never can be but ill-cooked ; you can always equalize
them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very
clean ; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard ;
let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop
with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute;
then turn it, let it semi-fry fbr about three minutes, season the upper-
most side with a quarter of a teaspoonfril of salt, and half that quantity
of pepper ; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. Yoa
may then turn it several times while doing, as that equaUies the
cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it te
perfection, and less, if thinner.

Second Lesson, — If the above directions are properly attended
to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour,
and the &t a gold colour, cutting extremely white and light, while
the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will
almost stick to the knife, instead d£ running on the plate and par-
taking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly
and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people
rich, which I am sure, my dear, you iwill find to be a great mistake;

USAT IH TBtnro-PAir. 69

tlioiigli the tiadly-cooked diop will probably weigh more than the
other, from not having loet lo much of its subftance, yet it will not
posMM half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The
above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a
quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of
fifteen persons out of twenty ; therefore I hope it will dindnish the
load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous
to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to
season tor the guest, not the guest for the cook.

141. Third Zenon, — When you can thoroughly cook a chop
aooording to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which
is thus done : — Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the
flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or
OKhalois, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs ; or when done, rub both
ndes of the chop lightly with a dove of peeled garlic, or a piece of
fresh or maitre d'h6tel butter. These remarks are applicable to
all kinds of semi-fried meat.

Tike Fowrth Zetton is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely,
oook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me
know how you relished it.

Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork,
veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking.
A alow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops,
whieby when semi-fried, will take a gold cobur, as above-mentioned.
Yoa maj always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your
finger on the thick part; if the flesh is firm and well set on both
ttdss^ it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled
red oibbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through
will Ve found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.

142. Mutton Cutlets. — ^The chop from the neck is the best to
semi-fry ; they should be nicely cut, and the bone at the thick
part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing ; then beat up
the yolk and white of an egg, with a pinch of salt; have
ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted,
(this may always be kept ready in a canister) ; beat out the
cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a
brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate,
and lay the cutlet on them ; press them ; serve both sides tho
same, and shake off all loose crumbs; have the fat in tho
pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one
side, tnm them over, and do the other side the same ; take them
out, lay them on a cbth, so that no fat remains ; serve with any
made sauce. For bread-crumb, see No. 432 ▲•

60 MEAT m FBTIKGhPAN.

143. Veal Cutlets should be cut round, about tbree incbes iii
diameter, and a quarter of an incb thick, done very quickly.

144. These may all be rubbed previous to bread-crumbing,
with either onion or eschalot ; by rubbing them there will be
no perceptible taste, but a pungent flavour ; these can be served
with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas, and
anything, according to taste, remembering that that which
pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate.

145. JPork Chops, semi-fried, without bread-crumbs, are done
as the mutton chops ; they will require more time, and should be
served with d mustard or sharp sauce.

Mutton, veal, pork, and lamb, all look inviting, and are all
equally good, when bread-crumbed and semi-fried, as above.

146. 1*^ Lesson, Sausages and KidTieys, Semi-Jried, — Peel
and chop fine about four small onions, put one ounceof butter in the
frying-pan, two ounces of bacon cut in slices, and a tablespoonfol
of chopped onions ; fry for five minutes, stirring it with a spoon ;
cut half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in
the pan, then cut an ox kidney into thin slices, omitting, the
hard part ; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a
teaspoonfril of salt and one saltspoonfrd of pepper ; fry gently
for five minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done
too much, or they will be hard ; throw a teaspoonfrd of flavour
over them, add one quartern of water; simmer two minutes;
dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping,
lard, or oil, may be used instead of butter, and a few small
mushrooms is an improvement.

2^ Lesson, Kidm.eys aZone.-^lice thin an ox kidney, put
two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, add two
ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney ; fry for five
minutes, if over a brisk fire ; longer, if over a slow fire ; add a
teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of
water, sinmier a few minutes, stir roimd, and serve with or
without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an
improvement.

3r(f Lesson, Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauce, — Cut six
kidneys in two, remove the outer skin, cut them into slices; put
two ounces of butter into a frying-pan ; when very hot, put in
theMdnejs, and stir continually for about five minutes; sprinkle

UBAT DT FBTmO-PAir. 61

over a ieaflpoonful of flour, a little salt and popper, and, if
liandj, a little parsley chopped fine ; moisten with a little water
and four tablespoonfuls of ale ; thus it forms a thickish sauce.
Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or
a little vinegar, if preferred.

•

1471 Calves* Livery Semufried. — Cut the liver a quarter of
an inch, thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tahlespoonM
of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the
liver into it; have ready the fir^ing-pan, with sufficient fat or
dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the
pan a quarter of an inch ; when very hot (which try as before
directed for flsh), put in the liver and bacon ; the bacon will be
done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes;
when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.

148. Another Way, — ^Take away nearly all the fat, then put in
the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till
brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar,
and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder, if handy; mix
well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts^ as well
as pig's and sheep's, t&c. &c., may be done like liver, cut iu
slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port
wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to
the sauce ; it is also good bread-crumbed.

149. Lamhs* Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle ; you
can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound ;
wash it in cold water ; for every pound put a quart of water ; put
them in it for ten minutes to set ; take them out, lay them on a
cloth ; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping,
letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the follow-
ing mixture, and put in the pan, and firjr gently : break an egg,
beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half
a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may
be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a
nice gold colour, turn it ; when done, season with a teaspoonful
of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few
chopped onions put in the pan with the meat is very nice, or a
few mushrooms.

IMgs* chitlings, done as above, will be found very good, espe-
cially if fried with onions ; buy them ready cleaned, tlviw V^^^\^

62 MEAT IN F&TnrG-PAK,

you &y them let them simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water
for thirty minutes, or till tender ; drain them, and &j as above.
Tripe may also be done the same.

FOWLS.

150. — Thx motive of senu-&ying food is to have it done quickly;
therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be
cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fiy a fowl
with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to
satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a
similar way to that practised in Egypt some 8000 years nnce^ and
of late years for the great Napoleon — that is, cooked in oiL

In France this dish is called '* Poulet a la Marengo." It is related
that the great conqueror, after having gfdned that celebrated victory,
eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and ^
appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly,
that he deared that they might always be served in the same way
during the campaign.

151. — The fowl should be divided thus ; if just killed it should
be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still
warm ; it will then be tender ; if it has been long killed, the
joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not
to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs
should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the
breast ; then cut the belly in two ; by this there are eight pieces.
They should be seasoned with pepper and salt ; for want of oil,
one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the
pan. K a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes ;
the pieces should be turned several times ; when done serve plain,
or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup ;
for want of wine add a little vinegar ; give it a boil up till half
reduced ; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried
mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their
liquor, or temata sauce, &c.

If the fowl is prefijrred to be done whole, then split it down the
back, truss it the same as for broiling ; beat it flat, put two ounces
of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it ; it must be done
gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size;
if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above
time.

152. JPi^eons, whole, should be cut dowo the back the same tf

MHAT IN PRTING-PAK. 63

fowl ; cut off the head, the pinions, and feet ; season and fry with
an ounce of oil or £&t. They will take ten minutes.

163. JRahbits. — Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous
bones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt,
place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two
onionA, sliced, and then the rabbit ; they will take twenty minutes
or more to do, gently ; remove the pieces of rabbit ; have the
liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry
with the remaining fat ; when done pour off part of the fat ; add
a gill of water, season it ; give it a boil, and pour over the rabbit.
A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate.

154. Poultry of all kinds, Devilled. — These are best made
by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them
with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they
cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made
use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling.
Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until
hot through. A slight improvement may bo made in using the
frying-pan ; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before
pladng the fat in, frying some onions at the same time. A
little bacon can also be fried with it.

CURIOUS EFFECTS OP IMAGINATION

Here, Eldse, I again discuss a subject about which, some little
time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic
is treated in quite a difierent manner, and you must use your own
discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or' not. I can only say
that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared
it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought thoy were
eating calves' liver, and praised the way it was cooked.

Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them,
a counn of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake
in prepaiing the cUnner ? Ho, knowing my mania for experiments,
tamed very pale, and said, "No! No!" "Do not bo frightened,
ibr it is nothing very bad ; she used ox liver instead of calves'." The
poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but
still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to
that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfort-
able all through the evening.

TUs is the effect of the imagination, as we b&N^ woS&m^^ "^cs^R&ii^

64 MEAT IN FRYINO-PAJT.

in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest
are considered the greatest luxuries.

A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years
since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate
for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessfol, his
supporters proposed ^ving him a dinner to console him for his loss ;
he, however, could not attend; but sent them a raised pie of game,
about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his
supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to
the chairman, as if firom the noble lord, stating that he was glad they
liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived
him in the election — that the pie was composed of polecats, dogs,
rats, &c. &c. This letter was shown to the members of the committ^ ;
and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed,
there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill.
The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days
before the hoax was found out.

155. 1*^ Lesson. Neto Style of Dressing Liver in Frying-
pan. — I dressed it thus : take about two pounds of ox liver ;
remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch
thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan ; when hot put in
three pieces at a time of liver until set ; cut a quarter of a pound
of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut up the liver in small
dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped
onions, the same of pai'sley, the ^ame of flour, a teaspoonful of salt
and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water,
or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish
sauce ; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a
little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty
minutes ; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few
poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and
render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.

156. Minced Meat. — The remains of any kind of cooked meat
will be found very good ; the meat having been previously done
will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound
of meat, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt,
third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying-
pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy,
put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, £hen place it
on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve.

J^.B. — This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in any

MEAT IN PRYIKO-PAir. 6S

pan oar iron pot, bat I place it here only for those who possess a
frying-pan.

You may now vary this economical dish in twenty different
ways ; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as
above ; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as
onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or
made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be
used, and served on toast if approved of*

157. Minced Veal, — Any remains of roast veal may be
qoiokly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the
frying-pan : — Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small
dice ; calcolate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three
ounces for every pound ; when cut put a pound of it on a dish,
add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls
of flour, and a chopped onion; put in the pan half a pint
of water to boil, two teaspooufuls of colouring j then put the
meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and
serve on toast ; poached eggs on it are very good ; or put the
mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or
dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to
brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead
of water and colouring.

168. New Waif of Minotnff Jfcai^.— Cut in small dice ono
pQond of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in
proportion ; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping ;
when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with
two small teafipoonMs of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper.
When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a
pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a
Httle longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little
esohaloti chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb,
or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used ; if
beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoon-
fols of colouring added ; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of
vin^ar, is very good with it ; ox kidneys may be done the
same way. This will make a good curry by the addition of
half a tei^poonful of that article.

158 a. Simjplified way of Hashing all kinds qf CooTced
Iffa^.-^ut a pound of meat, except salted meat> previously

68 IfBAT IK FBYIKa-PAK.

cooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaq^ooia'*
ful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all
together well, then put all in the firying-pan, adding half a. pint
of cold water ; set it on the fire ; let it remain there imtil it han
aimmered ten minutes; take up, and serve.

2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary fiavoor with eithex
of the following ingredients : use either a teaspoonM of chopped
onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or
ketchup.

The above can be d(me in either black pot* inm saoioepiNi, of
frying-pan.

159. AU the above can be made as curries, aad Berved vith
rice, by first frying one onion, c^t up small, and balf a large
baking-apple, also cut small ; then add the meat, give it a ^Jb
mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonM of good curry
powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer lor t^
minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.

160. Bubble and Squeak. — ^Any remains of salt beef or pork
may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion.
Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about
a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat ;
then take one or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which,
when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds ; oat
each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away,
as likewise the stalk ; put about a gallon of water in an iron 8aaoe«
pan ; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about
twenty minutes, or until tender ; drain them well, and chop them
up rather fine ; then add three ounces of either butter or dripping
in the frying-pan, which put on the fire ; when hot put in your
slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownisb oolour, on
both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them
warm ; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a tea-
spoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper ; stir round till hot
throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no
cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and
fried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped*
may be added to the cabbage.

161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry , Fish^ andfHits.r-The&H/^

wmjlt dt niYnro-PAir. 67

lowmg is iSiirty raceipU in one :-— Put a ponnd of the onunb of
bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind
of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice
rather fine, press the water out of the bread ; put in the pan
two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two tcaspoonfuls of
chopped onions, fiy two minutes, add the bread, stir with s^
wooden spoon untU rather dry, then add the meat, season with
a teaspoonfbl of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if
handy ; stir till quite hot ; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix
very quic^, and pour on dish to cool.

Then roll it into the shape of small eggs, then in floury
egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour^
serve plaipi of with any sbarp or any other sauce jov^ fancy.

• J.62. I^numerable are the receipts that can be made in this
way ; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of
the year,— from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish,
v^etables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked
in milk is better.

163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and
preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread i fry, and
sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used
for Amits or eurds,

TJiey may siso be :&ied iii better, like fritters, instead of bread-
emmbs.

There is no end to what may be done with these receipts.
Tkej VOiSf be £ded, and when cold put between paste, cut into
nice paeees of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented,
sod nisde nat^j the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread
be soaked in eieam, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.

].64* Jiip^i J^9n9faiii<m,^-^BQil two pounds of tripe ; when
done, draii^ it, d^ with a doth} cut it in pieces about an inch
square, put in the pan four oimces of butter, four middling-sized
enioiis eat in sliees, fry fbr a fbw minutes, then add the tripe, stir
them every fi)ur minutes fbr about a quarter of an hour, then put
in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfrda
of vinegar, mixed well, and it wiU be ready for serving.

YermieeUi, boiled in the water that the tripe has been
boiled in, makes good soap. Bice or bread is nice done this
way. The addition of a teaspoonfrd of curry, one spoonfril of

y2

(

68 HEAT Ur rRYXNGhPAV.

flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good
eurry with the tripe.

165. A Fried Toad in the Mole, — ^Take a steak of the size
Inquired, not less in thickness than what I have before stated,
and partly fry on both sides ; have ready a pint of second-class
batter, as No. 470; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat
in the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as
thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan
a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently;
tarn it over ; or put the pan in the oven; when well set it is
done; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.

165 A. 2W^e Swutdd, — Have the tripe already boiled tender ;
put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices ;
fry them ; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry ; when
they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class
batter. No. 470 ; proceed as above.

The same Curried, — ^Proceed as above ; add one teaspoonfrd
of the cuny powder instead of the vinegar.

The same with JPichle.^^'ProcGed. as above; adding piocalilly^
or gherkins cut smalL

166. I%e Itemaina qf other Jsinds of Cold Boast Meats
may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half-
a-dozen, which put on the top.

167. The ^Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good
done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches
thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and
boned, will make a veiy economical and also a Lenten dish.

168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieceSi about two inches
square, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.

169. JBerfCollops, Fried, — ^Take apiece of steak, part and cut
thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from
sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat,
do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over
them whilst doing ; and when nearly done add any flavour you
like, either of cunyi pickles, tomato, or a little yinegar. Serve
Tezyhoi

80TEB*S BASING STEWINO-PAir. 69

170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged. — Cut one pound of veal in
eight or ten pieces ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of
pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate,
and with the back of the knife beat them well till nearly in
a pulp ; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife ; e^^ and
bread-crumb; beat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of
lard in. the frying-pan ; when rather hot, &y a nice colour ; serve
plain, or with sharp sauce, Ko. 411. These may be done, as a
general dish, by adding a little Med bacon and chopped oniond
in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and fuU ot gravy

Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be done the same way. Sausage-
meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried
the same.

INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN.

Mr DEAB Eloise, — In some of my former letters, I have stated that
the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each
objecfc requires to be subjected to the action of the fire ; whether it
be direct, or by the asnstance of either roasting, frying, baking, or
boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner,
that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities ;
but to lear& this requires practice and attention, more than those to
whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give.

I have been thinking in what way we could obviate the present
loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or
pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its
inmates.

I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject
from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from
which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery
was gcnng on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling
away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dis-
persed over the apartment. Entering into conversation with the
occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining
estate, and who was preparing the table fbr six persons to dine, I
soon found she had no mean opinion of ber abilities in cooking. I
remonstrated with her on the waste she was making, and at once
took up a plate, and held it over the pot, so as to intercept the
steam, when it was shortly covered by condensed steam and small
particles ot fibrine, which I convinced her would be much better
used in giving nutriment to her family than in mingling with the
soot in the chimney*

f 0OTEB*8 BASIKa StEWllTGHPAlf^

In oat snpericnr kitchens there may be plenty of meanf and niensils
to prevent a part of this evil ; but in the cottage, the abode of the
labourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot,
frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done With-
out great waste and difficulty. I have therefore invented a new and
simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of
the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that
you may understand 11^ I will give you a drawing and desoription
of it, feeling confident it will be useM to the milli(m. (See appendix
at the end of book.)

It has, likewise, one great advantage over the old method of
boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in
making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time
taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as
mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not
be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweet,
you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious
dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables j moreover, food prepared in this
way will keep much longer than if dressed another way, and must
consequently fieunlitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you
can do enough food at once to last for several meals^ which you must
admit will save an immense deal of time.

This modest pan, as you must percdve, will Concentrate aU the
nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food ]daoed in it ; and
the object I have in putting a lock and key on it, is to prevent any
person raising the lid while cooking, as by so doing the ISest part of
the flavour would immediately escape.

It is so constructed that it may be hung over the fire, or placed on
ihe hob, or steamed or bmled in a stewpan (as you would a pudding
U^ed in a basin), or in a cottage or baker's oven.

You must agree, my excellent friend, that I have hitherto done all
n my power to simplify and economize the food partaken of by the
larger part of the people of this country, who, I am scnry to say, are
much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery,
though possessing the be^t kind of food, and certain I am that huge
mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted,
even at the dxjon of the poor.*

Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political
economy has made such progress, that such m^i as Jeremy Bentham
and others have written volumes to benefit their feUow me% and yet

* While on my Governmental mission through Ireland, in the year
of the famine, 1817, the following conversation took place between
Lord Bessborougl), then Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and myself, after
my return from visiting the interior of the country ; —

80TEB*8 BAKIKG STEWINO-PAIT. 71

nlnrer lunw giren one word on that science which would materially
iicreaie the food partaken (^ hy all dasset of society !
- Kow that I have explained to you my new method of cookery, you
most tiy the following receiptee and then you will find my assertion
to be oorrecL

171. Berf'Steah in Baking Pa/n. First Lesson, — Take two
poonds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but
only half an inch thick ; peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices
a quarter of an inch thick, two middling-sized onions sliced ; mix
two teaspoonfuU of salt and cme of pepper.

Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan,
season them, then add some pieces of beef; season again, then
potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on

** In an hit er vie w granted by lus excellency, his lordship asked me
if 1 ooold aoooant for the generality of the people b^g so poor;
when I replied, 'Easily, my lord: why they actually manure the
land with gold to reap copper/ 'How do you make that out?'
was his excellency's inquiry. * Why, my lord, they waste tons of
good fish on the ground to grow a few potatoes.' ' In your opinion,
why do they do it P* ' Why, my lord ? Because they know how to
cook potatoes to perfection, and are totally ignorant of the way to
cook fish.' ' Wdl, I believe you are right,' s^d his lordship; 'but
how could the evil be reme(hed ?* ' Easily,' I replied. ' I would
first show them how to cook their food, no matter how simple such
fiwd might be, and prove to them that the maize, or American
Hour, now so much in use, if properly prepared, would be a blessing
instead of a curse; also the necessity of using with their food
ether vegetables bendes potatoes, as well as instruct them in several
plain ways of cooldng fish, which could be had in abundance all the
year round, at a very cheap rate ; it would, at the same time, give
emi^oynient on the coast to thousands of indolent people, as well as
cirralate an immehse deal of money in the interior of the country,
and much improve the condition of these poor wretched beings who
only seem to have been bom to live between poverty and starvation.

•• My plan would be to have pubUc lecturers appointed, whose duty
it should be to go round as ofcen as the agricultural lecturer, and
teach the people how to cook the food whidi that person now en-
deavours to make them cultivate.

"Until this is done, this country wiU never emerge out of the
Mmi-barbarous state in which it is at present."

Hii lordship took a note of the conversation, but sudden illneM
prevented my ideas being carried out.

72 soyeb's bakikg stewzng-pak.

the top, seasoning each time ; pour three quarters of a pint of water-
^ock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the baker's, for one
hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy
may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick
sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus.

Observe, Eloise^ that this is the plain foundation of every receipt
which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of
cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper ; if onions
are an objection omit them ; therefore take this as a g^de for all
kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish^ which are very good done in
this way.

172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change;
this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped
suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste ; roll it out to
cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put
the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for
the paste.

You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of season-
ing; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done
so, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say
the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not
like any predominant flavour ; but I am certain they only require to
try it two or three times, and they will like it.

173. — The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above
add only two onions ; four will give it a stronger flavour, and
six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the
judicious use of the following spices — either two cloves, or one
blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered
ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of
fresh thyme, or some wmter savory, or lemon thyme ; if dried,
a little more should be used ; two teaspoonfuls of* chopped
parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very
good. All these are to be increased in proportion to the size and
contents of the pan,

174 Leg of Beef. — Take two pounds of the leg — that part
which is full of sinew — cut as above, and season the same way ;
add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven : meat
without bone is preferable ; any part of the beef will do for this
receipt.

SOTEb's baking STSWINChPAir. 73

Or 9 instead of catting the leg or any other part of the beasty
the oheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four
ponnds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable
and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of
herbs (No. 460) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little
garlic.

176. Berfnoiih Vegetables »--^Ve^ two carrots, two turnips,
two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom,
then the meat in centre ; season, and cover over with remaining
vegetables ; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and
half water ; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat,
and serve. Pour pounds of any inferior part of beef wiU eat
tender done thus.

176. Ox iTatZ.— Cut them at the joint, although I prefer
ihem sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions
and a little herbs ; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully
in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning ; add a pint of
jRrater, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve.

177. Ox Heart and Kidneys* — The heart does not enjoy a
very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but
wiiji the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the
difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally
left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap ;
but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them
to purchase those provisions which are now despised.

178.'— Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces
leng^ways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom
of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon
again, and then potatoes over all ; a few slices of beef suet,
instead of the bacon, if none handy ; it should be cut thin ;
season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hour,
and serve.

179.-*If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard
part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart ;
if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in
hx^ towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.

180. Calves^ Sheep's, Fig's, or Ox JECeart, stewed whoUj-^

74 0DTSB*8 BAKING STEWlKO-^AlT.

Fill a hetit, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 464 a. Put in a
lour qttart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, tad on it
tibe heart, ti^e thick part downwards; cat into slices some
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a ^ece of bacon cut
in dice ; season it with, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of
pepper : fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a
pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar
and three of browning may be added.

181. — ^Tongues, brains, and liver, ooght to be set before
putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes,
and ihen skinned. These may be done in the same way as the
preceding.

182. — ^But supposing you have all these, and you wish to
mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out
the br«in ; put Ihiem on a dish, and for every pound of meaA
season with one teaspoonM of salt and a quarter ditto of
pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour ; then have one onion and
half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat» an^
place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces ; add
half a pint of water to each pound of meat ; bake according to
size.

Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of p^toes, and
cover it with paste.

183. Good JPlain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two
pounds of scrag or neck of mutton ; divide it into ten pieces,
lay them in the pan ; cut eight large potatoes and four onions
m slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and
three of salt ; cover all with water ; put it mto a diow oveA Ika
\mo hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in de^ didies.
If you add a little more water at iiie commenoement, you can
take out when half done, a nice cup oi brotL

TJie same simplified. — ^Put in a pan two pounds of meat
as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole
onions, and these wil^ twelve whdle potatoes ; season as bef(»re ;
covt^ over with water, and send to the oven for two hours.

Almost any part of the sheep can be used lor Irish stew.
A gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.

184 Ox Tongm, Potivd and Braksed.^*! send you tiiis

0OTEB*8 BAXllXO e^JEWISa-PAX. ft

reodpi as a iKmne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class
picnic or the laoe-ooiirse. Take a tongue from the pickle, and
vaah it okan ; cat off a part of the rough pieces of the root»
put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and
over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the
tongue turned round to fit the pan ; have a cow-heel, parboiled
and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with
another slice of bacoUi and a slice of beef or veal ; season with
two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloveSi
one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced ; add two
win^lassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart
of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours,
take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the
top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which
you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should you
wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when
done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described.
The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served
hot round the tongue.

The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed
and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like
oollaied head. A tongue boiled in ^ain water will take about
two houif .

185. Ox ToTtgives^ Fresh amd Pickled. — ^Pnt in the pan, an
above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small
dumplings, (see No. 949,) fill the pan with water, add either a
little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for
three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings
round, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed
as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.

186k Ftfo^.— Take two pounds of ihe leg of veal, ix meat from
the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces i
season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half oi
pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices.
To vary the seasoning, use herl», (No. 460 a.) It will also
be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small
balls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal
should be rolled in flom* ; add half a pint of water, if with
'potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing ; bake one hour and
a half» and serve. Mushrooms may be added.

76 SOYEb's BAKINO STEWmChPAK.

187. Parcliase six calves' tails, and after having had them
washed, cut them ahout two inches in length, and cook them
as ahove, with the addition of more vegetahles, as carrota^
turnips, <&c. They are excellent and nutritious thus.

188. — Brown Itagout of Veal, — ^Take two pounds of the
hreast, cut it into rather small pieces, ahout the size of an egg,
roll them well in flour, put some fat in the j&ying-pan, fry the
meat until a nice hrown, take it out, and then fry four onions,
two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same ; when
hrown take them out, put the veal and vegetahles into pan, season
with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of
water, to which has been added four teaspooninls of browning;
put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan,
and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an im-
provement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the
same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.

189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra Dinner, — ^A small fillet of
veal, boned and stuff with Ko. 464; tie it up tight, put some fat
into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, iry
gently until one side is brown, and then put in the other side
until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions
whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs ;
put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the
bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another
piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vege*
tables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the
steam does not escape ; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter
of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the
fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat ;
pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables
round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve-
ment.

•

190. The following is another favourite dish of mine : — ^It is
to lard a calf s liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No.
459), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a
frying pan, fiy for twenty minutes imtil of a nice brown colour,
place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound of
hacon cut in dice, twenty large button onions, twenty pieces of

80TEB*S BAKINQ STEWIKG-PAK. 77

earrot^ twenty of turnip ; when a nice colour throw two ounces of
flour over them, and stir ; three teaspoonMs of salt, and a small
one of pepper, two of sugar; put all this into the pan, add three
pints of hot coloured water No. 462 a, and a hunch of sweet herhs;
shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours ; skim the
fiit and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver.
Pig's, lamh's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You
may place all the ahove ingredients in the haking pan without
frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in
flavour,

191. Betf'h'la-Mode, — Take a piece of the thick part of the
rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat ; take half a pound
of fat bacon and a calf s foot ; cut the bacon into pieces about two
inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with
the bacon (see Ko. 469), place the beef in the pan, and also the
foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle-
sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or
four or six large ones, cut into slices ; add half a quartern of
brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of
water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping,
and send it to the baker's for three hours ; should it be done
at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides ;
when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in a dish,
with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round ;
throw the gravy over ; take away the herbs. This, you may
perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in
winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.

192. The same plainer, — ^Proceed as above, adding half a
pnt of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar
and an ox-foot instead of a calf s-foot. Any piece of the fleshy
part of the ox is good done so.

193. The same, to he eaten coZc^.-^Cut the beef into square
pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean
bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about
two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little
vinegar ; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it,
with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which
the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins
^ into slicesi and sent to the oven for three hours; take off tho

78 BOYmfs BAKiNa STirvmro-FAJr.

cover, And place a fiat piece of board on the top of the meat, wiili
a heavy weight, so as to make it firm ; and when cold use it. It
is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the
pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over ; it will
come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.

194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Hhacf of iiaw5.— rThese may
^ be done as follows: — Put it into a gallon pan, with one
parrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty youpg
button onions whole, three teaspoonMs of salt and one of pepper,
cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for
one hour ; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a
}ittle green mint, and a teaspoonfril of sugar ; set it by the side
of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve.
This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one
take 9i UtUe longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs
mi^ be added, but should be removed when served. The
flavour is exquisite, and may be served with vegetable or with?
out, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the
vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring <»
pther soups.

195. PorX?.— Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done
in this way : Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin,
season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then
some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all ^
in ; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.

196. Anoiker way with Apple,— rCiit the pork in thick pieoesi
peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them
m slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little
powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the
vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it.
Bake two hours and serve.

197. Another, simpler, — ^When in a great hurry proceed thus :
—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound
of potatoes, also slicied ; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper,
one of flour ; mix all well together, put it in the pan with half a
pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A Utde bone may
be used with the meat.

ICia. SfikU J^k wiik Fea4i.rrrT9ke two pounds of the belty

BOTBB*S BAKnrO nVWIKO-PAN. 79

cf pork, oat into large dice, wash half a pint of split peas, put
them into a thiee-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot
eat in amaU peoei, fill it up with cold water, send it to the oven
ibv two hoars, stir up the peas well hefore serving. A few
TBgetaUes maj be introduced. Bice may be used instead of peas.

199. 8aU Park may be used thus : Take a four-quart pan*
out ap the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, &Jice them,
•nd aJao add four onions sliced, four doves, and one teaspoonful
of pepper } press it well down ; put over it a quarter of a pound
of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew ior three hours ; a
little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough ; it will
make 9fL excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour
previoua to using.

Bed cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes
in plain water; then add half .a pint of vinegar and twelve
peppercorns, if handy.

200. Oreen Peas and Pork» — ^Put a piece of salt pork, about
two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas ; fill up with water,
add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two
onions ; bake for three hoars. Salt beef is also good ; a little
mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a
little dripping, is good as above.

aoi. Cabbage and Pork, — Cut two good Savoy cabbages
in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork
about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as
loregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage; seawaL
again ; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, fair
onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs : do not fill it with water ta
the brim, or it will boil over. Bed cabbage may be used the
■ame way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two
ouDoee of dripping.

202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the
•ame way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and
I oannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans
and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well
soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. I
find that one pmt absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an
agreeable an well as eoonomioal food.

80 80TEB*8 BAKINa STEWING-PAK.

203. Betfcmd Park, — Semi- Carthusian JTa^Aton.— -SanBages,
ceivelas, sayeloyg, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted
pig's feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London,
jnaj be dressed in this way : Buy two good savoys or white
cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard staU:, and boil
them for ten minutes in water ; place them in a dish to drain ;
cut the quarters -^in into four, lay some at the bottom of the
pan, then a few sausages and saveloys, season with salt and
pepper, and then fill up the pan; then add two ounces of
dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half,
and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top.

Bed cabbage with saveloys are preferable ; then add one gill
of vinegar, a few peppercorns ; stew them longer, and serve as
above. I have tried with raw cabbage ; it is not bad, and saves
time.

Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish
onion.

This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings
of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally
sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first

Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and
they make a cheap and wholesome meaL

204. Large Dutch Sahhits. — ^Put into a one gallon pan a
rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight
onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices ; also half a pound
of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then
place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of
water ; cover over and bake two hours ; shake the pan round and
serve.

205. Curry Babbits, — ^Proceed as above; only add to the
water two teaspoonftds of curry powder; let it well mix, or
season with it at the same time as the other seasoning.

The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use
two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good
rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled.

206. JPlain Babbit, Chickens, or JPigeons for Invalids,-^
The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in
quarters i the pigeons into halves; place it in a two-quart pai^

SBXZ-BOABTmO IN BAKIKO STEWIKQ-PAN. 81

wHih a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a Utile salt and
pepper ; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the
pan is not quite full ; fill up with some small pieces of veal ; put
a plain paste over all, No. 317 ; put cover close over, and bake
one hour. 8kim the fat off, and serve.

fiOW TO tSE THB PAN FOB SEMI-BOASTING.

The deep inn diati at the bottom of the pan is to contain either
pudding; gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat»
poultry, fishf or game on, you wish to cook by this process.

207. Sihs qf Betf semi'roasted,-^Vw[c}xBae two ribs of beef,
bone them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and
pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of
string or a skewer to keep it in that position ; make a quart of
batter, as No. d77A; put it in your pan, which previously well
grease ; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surround*
ing it with potatoes eiUier whole or cut ; allowing from twelve
to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the
state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round,
and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The
beef may be stuffed with stuffing. No. 464.

Nothing is more otrjectionable to me than to see salt put on
the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy.
The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water
and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on,
turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute i
and* whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with
it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring,
mubh improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted
or semi-roasted joints.

For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the
bones at ^e back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling
water over $ not however disturbing the meat.

Brovm gravy. No. 2, or broth. No. 1, will be found pife-
ibrable to either of the above.

208. Mutton semi'Tocuted, — Half a leg of mutton, about
four pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, tmder, will take
about one hour. Shoulder tixe same.

209. Pork semi'VOMted, — Place in the bottom four apples,
peeledf four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of

82 SEMI-BOASTIKa W BAXim STEWIKChPAK.

pork, rubbed with salt and pepper ; Bprinkle a little sage ; add
half a pint of water in the pan : bake for two hours.

For a change, pork should be purchased the day blefore using,
covering it all over with salt ; and then scrape it well before cook-
ing it, makes it eat short and savoury.

210. Lamb semi-roasted, — Boil some spinach in salt and
water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, sea-
soned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating,
and then the joint of lamb ; small ribs or shoulder will take an
hour ; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up wiiii the
spinach separate, the iat having been removed from it. Greens
of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the
young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for
spinach, or even chopped nettles : these are also good under
pork, veal, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of
beef. No. 176.

211. Poultry semi-roasted, — ^Almost any kind of vegetableSi
such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms^
may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as weE
as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped.

1st XeMOM.— -Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl ; peel
and cut in middling-sized pieces about half a pound of carrots,
the same of turnips ; place them in the pan witii half a pint i^
Water, half a teaspoonM of salt, one of sugar, and half of peppsr ;
put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with
peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve ;
also rub a little butter or £Eit over the breast, or cover it with a
few slices of bacon ; a little colouring may be added to the gravy.

This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or
poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of
large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in propcnrtion.

212. Babbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the
pan, if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of
butter, &c.; put half a pint of water; bake thirty-five or fifty
minutes, according to size, and serve.

If any joint happens to be too fat, it will not do to put a
Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting ;
but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, aj:e added, you wH
l» able to press the fat off with the back of a^poon, or a plate,

the vegetMe presseii (see Aigfj^ivdix,) and seiTe sepai'ately.

•(mm'S BAKING STEWIK€kPAir. 8i

a Jomi with grofoy only, — Put in the pan half
a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of lalt, half
that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little oolour-
ing, pour under the joint, and eerve.

VSBFUL HINTS ON THE FIG.

Onoe or twice a year every cottager ought to kill his pig. If a
pig ii waAed and kept dean, it loftens the skin and allows it to
^ipuA i in fkot, a pig thus treated comet much quicker round ; it is
prored that a pig at fourteen monthfl, kept clean, ia equal to one at
eighteen which is not attended to. llie same day some of the liver
my be fried, hot the rest can be used in the pan as follows : —

213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into
frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice,
fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of
flouTy put in the tinr, with one teaspoonM of salt, half ditto of
pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a giU of water, keep stirring,
^nd put it into pan, with a pound of turnips cut in small dice,
fbnronionicutin four,and half a pmt of boiling water; put into
a slow oven for fifty minutes, and then serve with toasted
fippets round the dish. A bunch of herbs, No. 460, may be added.

y«al, sheept', lambs', and ox liver, and kidneys, may all be
Aone the same way ; less time for lamb and more for ox ; any
other vegetables may be used, and particularly mushrooms.

214 Feo^— Take six pounds of veal usually used for roastrog,
tab it with salt, put half a pint of water in the tin, and potatoes.
iibova, and then the veal; it will take two hours. When it is
served, take off the fat frbm the gravy in the pan, and pour over
fh0 tmI, reserving the fat for puddings. A piece of bacon and
sreens should be boiled at home, or a small piece of bacon may
M placed with the potatoes ; dish the veal with the potatoes, and
baoon round it or separate ; add a little oolourmg to gravy.

A pieoe of veal stuffed may be roasted thus. Or, for gravy,
sMike meltBd butter No. 410, with four teaspoonfuls of Harvey
sauoei or ketchup, and pour it over.

215. Ihad in the Sole, — No, 1.-- May be made in either a
Udng-dish, pie-dish, or tih. Get about two pounds of trimmings
of eiiier beei^ mutton, veal, or lamb, not too fat, aad cuitk tiW&

^2

84 fiOTER^S BAKING STEWING-PAK.

into pieces, each about the size of a small egg ; season with salt
and pepper, make about two quarts of batter, second class;
grease the pan well, put in the meat and batter, and place in a
slow oven for nearly two hours, and serve hot.

No» 2, with Potatoes. — ^Proceed as before. When the pan is
ready put about two pounds of previously boiled potatoes, cut in
slices, and bake as before.

No. 3, with Peas. — ^Proceed as before, only adding about one
quart of good green peas, previously boiled; broad beans maybe
used the same way.

No. 4.^-Eemains of cooked meat may be done the same way,
but it will take less time to cook.

No. 5. — Calves*, or any brains, previously parboiled in
water* and the skin removed, well seasoned with pepper and salt,
and a few slices of bacon added to the batter, make a veiy
delicate dish.

No. 6. — Six larks or twelve sparrows, with a slice of bacoA
skewered round each, with the batter, and put into the oven for
two hours.

No. 7. — Ox cheek and sheeps* heads, previously cooked and
nicely seasoned, with the addition of a little chopped onions
added to the batter, is an economical dish. A few slices of
cooked potatoes may be added.

No. 8. — ^Truss a rabbit for roasting, make a stuffing with the
liver, &c., chopped up, bread-crumbs, beef-suet, and seasoning;
stuff the rabbit ; lay on the bottom of the pan a thick slice of
fat bacon, and over that a slice, one inch thick, of beefsteak, and
then the rabbit, to which add two quarts of batter ; place in the
oven for two hours, and serve hot. This is enough for a large
&mily. The rabbit may be cut in pieces; boiled cauliflower
may be added.

No. 9. — Eemains of previously cooked hare may be done in
the same way, with some currant-jelly in the stuffing.

No. 10. — A blade-bone of pork, two onions, cut in slices, and
Ifour potatoes sliced, pepper and salt, and one quart of batter
^ut over them ; place in the oven one hour, and serve hot.

80T£R*S BAKIKG STEWING-PAK. 85

JVb. ll.-*»R6maiiiB of salt pork, or any roast meat, may all be
done in this way, and varied according to the taste of the
partaker.

BemainB of any kind of fish may also be done thus, with
previously boiled potatoes.

216. Jugged J7ar0.-*Cut a small hare into pieces about the
size of eggs, cut half a pound of bacon into dice not too small,
lay both on a dish, mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of
pepper, four of flour, three of chopped onions, one of powdered
thyme and bay-leaf, four cloves, and a quarter of a nutmeg,
grated ; rub the hare and bacon with these ; place them in the
pan. Having saved the blood, chop up the liver and mix with
it, add to it a wineglass of brandy, or two of port or sherry, or
one of vinegar, or half a pint of ale, stout, or porter, and a pint of
water ; put this in the pan, and cover over with pudding-paste No.
819 ; put on the cover ; shake the whole well to make it mix; and
bake for three hours, if an old hare ; if a young one two hours.
It is equally as good cold as hot. If eaten hot, a little currant-
jelly should be served with it.

Some stuffing No. 465, made into little balls, can be added
with advantage, or even a few suet balls, and two tablespoonfuls
of oolouring ; mix with the water. It can be done plainer, with
salt and pepper and water only ; or twenty small onions and eight
potatoes, out in slices, maybe added, or even mushrooms may be
pot in.

217. Jugged Sa/re, Marinaded.-^li should be cut as above,
and put into a bowl, with half water and half vinegar to cover
4t; &ur teaspoonftds of salt and one of pepper, four of brown
sugar, two onions cut in slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, cloves,
perppercoms ; turn them now and then for four days, and cook as
above, with the marinade in.

218. How to cook all kinde qf Fish in Baking Stew-pan,
—Take six pounds of any fish, cut it croesways, two inches
thick, put them in the pan, with salt, pepper, chopped onions ; fill
it up ; well intermix the seasoning ; when full, put in a basin four
oonoes of flour, which mix with a quart of water, which pour
over, shake the pot, well cover it, bake two hours in rather a hot
oven ; seasoning to be four teaspoon^ls of salt, one of pepper,
two onions, and chopped parsley ; onions may be omitted, but use
herbs and mixed spice.

88 0OTER*i BAXXSQ 8TBWIirCh^AHi

Halibut, Hake, ling, conger, ood, pike, caip« tendi, perchf and
piper may be done the same way.

Kice may be added in the following way : — ^A pound <^ pre-
viously boiled rice, two quarts of milk, a little sugar and salt, two
ounces of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and put into the pan with
the fish.

The addition of a few spoonMs offish sauc-e will greatly vary
{his dish. When done aerve, without breaking tiie piece, if
possible.

219. Pieces qfMik.'^^ar a two-quart pan, cut iorxt mackttvl
in three pieces each, which roll in flour, place them in rows in
{he pan, two teaspoonfuk of salt and a half pepper, two teaspoonfult
of chopped onions ; fennel or parsley may be added ; put in two
gills of water, place cover over, bake one hour in a hot oven, and
aerve, having first taken off the oil from the top.

220. To Pickle Mackerel and EJerfinge in ike JBahii^*
pan. — ^When these fish are plentiful they may be done at
follows, and will be found to keep and eat admirably well ^—

Out the mackerel into three pieces, enough to fill the one-
gallon pan, lay some at the bottom and season, and eontinu*
thus until full; the seasoning should be fourteaspoonfula of aaU^
two of pepper, ten peppercorns, four onions sliced, a handM of
parsley, chopped ; add over all one quart of vinegar and a funt o£
water; place the cover over, and bake slowly for two hooxa;
some sweet herbs or a bay-leaf may be added.

221. Herrings, pilchards, and sprats can be done as abova^
only a little variation to the seasoning and the time of cooking,
according to the size ; when quite cold pour some oil or lard on
the top ; put the cover on, and keep out the air aa much aa poaaiUe^
and they will keep a long time.

222. Halibut, hake, ling, oonger eel, plaice, gurnet, oodlinga,
sturgeons, and haddock, may all be pickled aa above. Cut
halibut one inch thick and three inches in length ; place them
at the bottom of the pan ; season over as before, and ona te**
apoonM of ground ginger and sweet herbs.

223. Baked ^els-^-^Cxit several eels in pieces of three inchea
Jong; zvB them in fiour,put them in the two-quart pan, aeaaon with

80YER*S BAXXRa WnSWTSOhVKSt, 87

salt, pepper, chopped onions, a litUe thyme ; contmue until full,
add a glass of sherry, half a pint of water, cover over with some
erast, either pie or padding, put on the lid, and hake one hour.
Seasoning, two teaspoonMs of salt, half of pepper, and two
of chofq^ onions. Take the oil off, and serve.

224 A Piece qf Berf stewed in JBalnng Pan.-— Get three
wing ribs of beef, bone them, season with salt and pepper on
each side ; to vary the flavour, chopped parsley and a Utde spice
may be added, or even chopped onions ; roll it round, and fasten
it with string ; rub more salt on it, and place it in the pan ;
send it to the baker's ; four pounds will take one hour. This
is the best part to bone, but most other pieces may be used.
Staff by making an incision in the lean part, and binding it
up with string.

226. — If you wish a Yorkshire pudding and potatoes to be
baked at the same time, they may be placed in it, and when it
oomes home aQ will be found excellent. Instead of the gratings
in the pan, it may be divided in two> one for pudding and the
other for potatoes.

ML joints may be done the same way.

226. 3h Sail Meat in Pan,'^8pioe Be^.^^Ttke four pounds
of the thick ribs of beef, or any part, put in the pan, with apint
of water, a teaspoonfhl of allspice, two of salt, two bayleaves,
two eschalots, or a little garlic ; stew three hours, either in oven
or on the fire, keeping the cover well closed ; half an hour before
being done add a teacupful of the raspings of bread, half a pint
of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, simmer, dish up, and sauce
over.

227. Salt Jlleatj^^o plain-boil this in the oven, which can be
done when no fire is required at home, put six pounds of salt
beef into a six-quart pan, with four whole parsnips, two large
carrots, and six dumplings; send thepa to the oven for two
boors ; dish up the meat with the vegetables, and dumplings
round. The liquor can be saved and made into soup; the
vegetables can be cut in two.

All kinds of salt meat can be done the same. K the broth
be too salt add pome water, and use for pea-soup.

£8 CN BOASTIKa

ON BOASTING,

Mt SSAB Eloise, — My last letter you must have misonderstood.
I did not mean that roasting before the fire should he entirely done awny
with, but that, on the score of economy, it should not be practised in
the cottage, but that my new plan of semi-roasting should be followed.
I was the more particularly led to these remarks, from having, last
Sunday, immediately after church, visited several colliers' cottages
belonging to a Mr. Pope, close to this place. My motive for ddng so
was to see the economy of the cottage, as well as the kind of food
they had for dinner. The first I went into had a piece of the beUy or
flap of beef, just taken down from a dangle, having been roasted. It
waa lying in the dripping pan, and was a great deal over done ; in
&ct, dried. Noticing, in the course of conversation, that the fire
was spoiling it still more, I took a plate from the table, and placed it
against it, so that it should not bum. The old lady noticed my pro-
ceeding, and asked me if I was going to have a l^t of dinner with
them P " No, thank you, my dear madam," replied I. " Then let
me take away the plate, as it will spoil our ^nner." "How. do
you make that out?" I asked. <*Well, the fiit is not yet half
out of the meat, and my Thomas will not eat fat, unless it is
dripping in the crust of pies or puddings." I then perceived that the
meat was, in their estimation, a second consideration, and that they
paid the price of beef for the fat, paying eightpence per pound for the
meat^ when they could get the fat at fivepence. There was scarcely
any nutriment left in the meat — that which weighed five pounds
before roasting, woghing hardly three pounds when done. There
were seven to dine off it — ^the grandmother, the two parents, and
four children. There was, besides, a few potatoes galloping on the
fire— no other vegetable, and no puddings or sweets for the children,
but excellent home-made bread, and not bad sm^U beer. You may
now perceive that some little improvement in this style of cookery
would be m immense saving to these cottagers, and out of the three
shillings and fi>uipence they paid fisr the beef, if done in the pan,
with a pudding and potatoes under, and the meat not qmte so fat,
they would have got a good dinner and plenty for the next day,
either hot or cold. If t^hey wanted dripping, they could get fiit
at four or fivepence, instead of eightpence, and prepare it as No.
464c. It will keep for a long time, without turning sour.

I visited, immediately after, several other of the cottages, in which
I found st^ks cooked dry, indeed, some half burnt, chumps of mutton
half done, ha>f legs of mutton neither boiled or baked; in one a
sheep's head baked, and very nicely done, with potatoes round it, which
was very inviting; there- was also suet dumplings for the children.

ON B0A8TIN0. 89

with treacle over. This cottage was cleaner than any of the others,
and the children were neatly dressed, and about to change their
costume, in order to do taW Jastice to the treacle domplings. In
giving l^ose roq^-cheeked urchins a few pence, I retired much gratis
led hj my visit to these antediluvian workmen, who pass one-third
of th^ life in the bowels of the earth.

You will perceive from what I have said, that to the artisan,
labourer, and even the small tradesman, the old mode of roasting,
which comet to us fh>m Homeric ages and primitive times, is an extra-
vagant and wastefbl mode of cooking, and the sooner it is reformed
the better. Though it is preferable to meat done in a baker's oven,
if well attended to.

But first let me add one more remark on the experience of that
day. Betnming to the Normanton Hotel to dinner, we had a beau-
tiftil dish of greens; and what do you think those greens were?
Oreen young nettles, which I had asked the gardener to gather fat
me the day previous, and in less than half an hour we had a basket
fblL I picked them with gloves, but he made a grasp at a large
quantity, and I found that they did not prick him. He got them as
tuA aa a monkey oonld get chestnuts out of hot cinders. The cook
dressed them, acoordmg to my directions, exactly like spinach, and
most who ate of them thought they were spinach, only rather too hot
of pepper, which is their peculiar nature.

I found that they are known in this part of the country as being
good and wholesome in the spring ; but because the people can have
them for nothing, they will not partake of them ; like the water-
cre«es, that rot in every clear stream in the neighbourhood. I intend
to make another trial or so on thenettlecf, which I will forward to you.

HOW TO ROAST.

HAYiKa, thus fiir, given you some of my experience as regards
roasting, I will, in as few words as possible, describe the simple plan
of roasting before the fire, which, I must again repeat, is &r ^om
bdng economioaL The artisan requires as much nourishment us
possible, and should not pay extravagantly for fancy Joints, or those
called the best, because most in vogue for roastmg. Let the wealthy
pay fbr thir taste, as they do for their Raphaels, Rubens, and
MuriDoe; it is no reason, because they do so» that a labouring man
should imitate them, and because one has a leg of mutton, the other
should likewise have one. This very day I have seen, ip Nottingham
market, all the best joints sold by the butchers, and nothing but the
necks of mutton and the coarse pieces of beef left, which, they tell
me, hang for days and days, lessening both quality and quantity, and
then are sold at twopence or threepence per pound. This causes
tlie joints .most in vogue to bo dear, whilst there is quite as much

90 OK THE EOOKOmr OF BOAmHSG BT QAS.

nouriBhiBeiit in proportioii in thoee sold at half the price when cooked
frerib.

I must here, however, detcribe the proper system of roasting^
either before the fire or by gas (see note). And as an invariable rule^
all dark meats, sach as beef and mutton, should be put down to a
sharp fire for at least fifteen minutes, until the outnde has a coating
of osmazome or gravy, then remove it back, and let it do gently.
Lamb, veal, and pork, if young and tender, should be done at a
moderate fire. Veal even should be covered with paper.

Very rich meat, if covered with paper, does not require basting.
Fowls, &o., should be placed dose to the fire, to set the skin, and in
about ten minutes rubbed over with a small piece of butter, pressed in
a tpoaa. Boast meato should be dredged with flour, just at the time
when the gravy beg^ to appear; ti^e flour absorbs it, and forms
a coating which prevents any more coming out. Harei and small
game the same.

COTTAGE BOASTING.

In the first place, the fire must be made np, and deored from
ashes. Place before it the dripping-pan, and from above the fire,
suspend firom a hook a piece of worsted thread, sufficiently strong to
bear the joint, and a hook suspended at the end. Have a piece of
stick forked at one end, which place against the mantle-piece^ so thai

mmmm"^*

Note.

OK THE COMPORT AND ECONOMY OP BOASTING BY
GAS, WHERE IT CAN BE PROCURED.

Experiment made at the Boyal Nanal School, Qteemoich Sotpital,

hy M, Soyer,^

Two interesting trials have taken place at the above establishmenii
with an apparatus manufiustured by Messrs. Smith and PhilHpi^
patentees, of Skinner-street, Snow-hiU^ under the superintendence of
M. Soyer, whidi in their results finally determine the qnestaon 00
the merits and economy of roasting by gas.

The result of the first trial, which took place on the 8th Inst.,
was, that 86 legs of mutton, weighing 288 lbs., were roasted at a
cost of Itf . %d.

In order to arrive at more positive results hi regard to its eoonomy,
a second trial was deemed requisite, which took place on the lltii
inst., when equal weights of mutton were cooked. Twenty-three
joints, weighing 184 lbs., were roasted by gas, at a cost of 10^.,
with gas supplied at ^, per 1000 feet. When cooked, t^e above
weight of meat was found to weigh 145 lbs., drippinp: 19 lbs., an4

oonJkxm BOifirriifo. 91

U iMpi ihe tfaMtd at a raffident diitaiioe from the fire. By haviiig
two pieoes of ^tk, the distances can be easily managed. Twist the
woff^ed; pat on the joint; give it a sufficient distance from the
fire. This is quite equal to dther a smoke or bottle-jack fbr cottage
use.

Every cottage ahould have a moveable piece of iron or steel
screwed on the mantel-piece, with teeth fixed in it, bo as to
be able to hang the joint at any distance from the fire. See
Appendix, at end of book.

TIME TABLE FOB BOASTINa

228. Ten pounds of beef will take from two Hours to two
boiirs and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire.

8ix pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half,
fourteen inches from the fire.

Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled (see No. 207), well tied
round with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen
inches from tiie fire, and only baste once.

If beef is terj fkb, it does not require basting ; if very lean,
tie it up in greai^ paper, and baste welL

229. Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half

gravy, or osmaxome, 2} lbs., thus showhig the actual loss to be
18}^ lbs. Twenty-tluree joints of mutton were cooked in the usual
way, as adopted at ths institntioii, namely, in one of Count Rom-
fbrd's ovens, hitherto considered the most eocmomical way of roasting.
When put in they weighed 184 lbs., when done 132 lbs., dripping
18 lbs.» gravy none, thus showing a loss of 84 lbs. The coke con-
somed in this oven was 102 lbs., coal 80 lbs., thus proving the great
eeonomy of gas over the oven by a saving of IS lbs. of meat, 1 lb. of
dripidng, 2f lbs. of gravy. The value of the saving is as follows :-^
IfMt at 8d. per lb., 6b, 6d.; dripping at M* per lb., 6d^ and gravy
at If. 6<{. per lb., 4t. 1^., makhig a total of 11<. O^d,

The eKperiments took place before the governor. Sir C. Adam,
and lady. Sir J. Liddle, M.D., Lieut. Bouse^ general superintendent^
Lieut. Monk, Messrs. Lee and Seville, inspector of works, who ex-
pressed their admiration at the deaidiness and nmplidty of the
apparatus. *

In order to show the advantage of the system in all its branches,
a rump steak was broiled by M. Sqyer, before the company present^
who partook of it, and who dedared it was peifeotioDy and fitee from
aU odour.— ifeoAonicf' Magatim.

92 -OOTTAOI! BOAfiTmO.

to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire ; if stuffed, at least
two hours.

Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take one hour
and a quarter ; haste well.

Six pounds, of hreast one hour, twelves inches from the fire.

Six pounds of the shoulder or neck the same.

Calfs heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters of an
hour.

230. Mutton (leg of eight pounds), will take one hour and a
half, eighteen inches from the fire.

Saddle, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter to one hour and a
half, eighteen inches, measuring from the fiat surface.
Shoulder, one hour and a half.
Loin, one hour and a half. *

Breast, three quarters of an hour.
Neck, one hour.

231. Lamh, according to size, hut in the same proportion leas
than mutton, but ought always to be well done, and placed
nearer the fire ; if a good fire about fifteen inches from it.

Pork should be well done.

Leg of six pounds, with skin over, two hours, eighteen inches
from the fire.

Loin of the same» one hour.

Neck, the same weight, one hour and three-quarters. .

Pork rubbed with salt the night previous, and then scraped
before roasting, improves the flavour.

In roasting of beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, place a
dripping-pan under the meat, with a little clear dripping or fisd^
which should be very hot when the meat is basted. A quarter
of an hour before serving add half a pint of water to the £&i in
the dripping-pan ; dredge the meat with flour and salt. When
the meat is dished up, pour the contents of the pan into a basin,
straining it through a gauze sieve kept on purpose ; remove all
the fat, add a little colouring and salt to the gravy, and pour it
into the dish under the meat.

Yeal and poultry should have half the quantity of water put
in the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of
thick melted butter, adding two teaspoonfuls of any sauce for
flavour, as Harvey's, Soyer^s, or ketchup, &c.
Sage and onions to be served witii pork.

OK BAKIKa MEAT IK OVEX. 93

Hint saaee with lamb.
Cnrrant-jelly with mutton.

232. JRocMting qf Poultry. — I proceed thu« : Hang it up
with worsted, about ten inches from the fire, lot it hang for ten
minutes to set the skin, then press into a wooden spoon a
piece of butter or hard dripping ; when the skin is very hot
rub it over with the fat in the spoon until all is melted, then
draw it back to about twelve inches : a good sized fowl will take
three quarters of an hour, chicken twenty minutes, middle-sized
goose one hour, turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half
hare, large, one hour and a half, if very young three quarters
of an hour. Never baste them, but dredge all, after having well
rubbed them over with butter, as for fowls.

Small game should be placed nearer the fire.

I always stuff both poultry and game with stuffing No. 464,
and make the gravy as for the joints.

Apple sauce with goose.

Currant jelly for hare.

Fried bread-crumbs with grouse.

Bread sauce with partridge and pheasant.

ON MEAT IN BAKER'S OVEN.

THOtraH this s^rstem of cooking meat is fax from receiving my appro-
bation, espedally on the score of economy, still, it would be very
ridiculous on our part, Eloise, to think that we should be able
entirely to reform this semi-barbarian method of spoiling food. No;
it must be a work of time that vrill prevent small folk from running
to the baker's on Sunday with either their legs or shoulders under their
arms. The reason why they have recourse to such a process 1b at
once simple and easily expired: first of all, it gives them no
tvodUe, and hardly any of them study economy, so long as the
dinner will cook itself, though in company with a score or two ot
othar joints, perhaps no two being of the same size or quality.

How can a baker, even one of the most conscientious of that usefrd
class of individuals, be answerable for the proper cooking of this
awkward squad, if such we may term it. How also can he prevent
the potatoes galavanting from one dish to another, or even joints
dbanging dishes, and by mistake, going to the wrong home — impos-
sible ! Is he to be answerable if an eel crawls out of Mrs. Arm-
strong's pie (having been put in whole), and, after cuoking, being
foond reposing under one of Mrs. Smith's ribs ? or can he prevent
Mrs. Jenkins's cod's head staring a neighbouring pig's fiice out of

&4 oir BAKDro meat iir oveit.

oountenance ? No more would be be able to obviate tbe above evils,
tban be could disentangle tbe fragrance wbicb emanates from each
bomely volcano, forming, as it does, an aerial coating of osmazome
mider tbe same roof.

Moral. Is it not more easy fbr a mother to nurse her own child,
tban having to take charge of the whole of her neighbours' children?
therefore, if every bonsewiie would cook her Httle family dinner at
home, instead of entrusting it to the nursing care of a baker's oveo^
she would, by so doing, though at the sacrifice of a little time, save
both nutriment and money.

A VBW KSW AKD USEFUL HINTS ON BAKING HEAT.

Iv we, Eloise, caimot entirely r^brm the evils eaused by tbe above-
described system, I feel myself in duty bound to g^ve a few hints on
the subject of ameliorating this wasteful method of cooking, which
will tend both to economize and vary the flavour, as well as the sub-
stance, of any dish that might be doomed to undergo this ordeal.

First of all, I would refer you to such receipts on semi-roasting
joints, such as beef, veal, mutton, pork, and lamb, done in thebaking-
stewing-pan, and proceed in tiiis iiist»ancfl precisely the same. In
respect to vegetables, p^iddings, xioe^ &e. Ac., being anxious that every
person should partake of a portion of vegetation with their daily food,
independent of potatoes, I have tried all the following receipts, which
I beg to forward you, feeling confident they will prove agreeable to
ear readers' palate, aa well as eondndre to thdr health.

AN IMPBOVED BAEING-DISH*
{For drawing qf v)U6h me J^^peniix at end oj hooh)

i vsa to inform yon that I have bad made, at a very trifling expente^
an improved bakhig-<Ksh. Its principles are as follows : on the rim ot
tiie dish, I have attached a moveable fidse grating of wire, to the
middle of which is fixed a trivet, three inches in h^gbt. I then pot the
pudding at the bottom of the dish, then put in the grating, on whidi
I place tbe potatoes; then on tbe trivet I put tbe meat. By this
neans the surplus &t, which would otherwise ihU in the padding
and prevent its setting, descends on the potatoes, making them deli-
eate and crisp. This is applicable to any joint, and the meat being
more elevated than usual when placed in the oven, causes it to
partake more of the flavour of a roast joint than it does when pot
immediately over the puddSng or potatoes, the vapours arinng front
which soddens the mea^ instead of leaving it brown and weQ
earboiuzed.

OV BAKIKO MSAT IN OVBV. 95

A SEBIES OF RECEIPTS OK BAKED MEATS.

Sihs qf Betf baked. — Take three long ribs of beef, bone,
MMon, stuff, and roll as for semi-roasting, No. 207 ; put either
Torkshire padding or any kind of vegetable in the ^tom of
the dish, then put on the grating, on which put your potatoes ;
then toL on the trivet at about three inches above the grating ;
when done, pour on a hot dish half a pint of boiling water,
qnarter of a teaspoonful of salt ; pour this under your joint, turn
it over ; when hot, turn over twice, and carve ; it will make a
ridi gravy. Serve the potatoes round, or separate ; the pudding
to be served on a hot dish.

By chopping the bone small, good broth and soap may be
made. K the oven happens to be too hot, cover the joint with
a piece or two of plain paper, well greased.

A pece of meat weighing about eight pounds, will take
from one hour and twenty to thirty minutes, giving always as a
rule £.*om ten to twelve minutes to every pound of meat, for
joints of from six to twelve pounds.

Any other piece of beef of an inferior part, requires to be
baked slowly, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, and if too
lean, may be larded, as No. 459.

2. JPbr a "Leg cf Torh — ^Peel six apples, six onions, and
twelve potatoes ; put the apples and onions at the bottom of the
dish, adding half a pint of coloured water, a teaspoonful of salt,
one of sugar, half one of pepper ; lay the potatoes on the grating,
tiie meat over ; give fifteen minutes to every pound of meat.
Half a pint of sage and onion sauce may be poured over the
apples and onions previous to baking. Any joint of pork may
be stuffed with sage and onions.

8. MUei qf Veal, — ^I have also tried the following : — ^Prepare
a fillet, which stuff; oil a sheet or two of clean paper ; cut in
slices four ounces of bacon, two onions, one carrot, one turnip, a
little celery, if handy, a little thyme and bay leaf; wrap up the
veal and the above in the paper, and bake for two hours ; when
done, take out the veal and serve with vegetables round it. It
will be delicious ; pray let me know your opinion.

Any part of vecd may be done the same. Tried baeon may
be serv^ with it.

06 OK BAKIKO MEAT IN OYES*

Also half a pint of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ketcbup,
two of Hatlfey's sauce, well mixed ; pour round and serve.

4 2h bake Mutton, — Proceed as for beef, time according to
size, putting under a Yorkshire pudding, or some rice boiled
with curry in it, or boiled French haricot beans, which I have
used for a change now and then. I also put a piece of pudding"
paste, half way up the knuckle of a leg of mutton, which pre*
vents it getting dry, that being so much thinner than the other
part.

Loin and shoulder the same ; if a piece happens to be lean
and dry, butter it over^ cover it with paste^ and bake as usual.
The shoulder, baked*, like the leg of pork, is good with apples,
potatpes, and onions.

5. Lamb, being very delicate, allow only ten minutes per
pound for the ribs, the same for the shoulder, twelve minutes
for the leg. Spinach, peas, asparagus, and sprouts, are best witih
lamb.

All kinds of poultry may be done the same, though roast them
by all means, if you can ; but if wrapped up in paper, as for
fillet of veal. No. 3. in this series, it will be excellent baked.

6. Vegetables loilk baked Meat, — ^My new plan of cooking
vegetables with baked meat is as follows : — Scrape, wash, and
cut in pieces two pounds of carrots, boil them in salt and water
till three parts done, drain them in cullender, then put them at
the bottom of your dish, season with half a teaspoonful of salt,
half that of pepper, add half a pint of coloured water, then
place the potatoes on the grating, the meat on the trevet, and
bake as above.*

Any such joints as sirloin, skirt, edgebone, or any other jnieoe
of beef, weighing from eight to ten pounds, should have a tea-
•poonful of salt sprinkled over, rubbing on also a little fat or

* In the way of vegetables for beef, I have tried tomipi, Jem*
salem artichokes, parsnips, &c. Also for veal, lamb, and mutton^
spinach, greens, oaulifiowers, Brussels sprouts, all parboiled and weQ
drained. A pint of second class batter, added to either the parsnips^
artichokes, turnips, carrots, peas, asparagns, &c, using only one pound
instead of two, but qxdte boiled, and omitting the gravy, eiUier U
these will turn out like a pudding.

MEAT PUDDINGS. 97

Dutter ; roast as above, dish it up with the gravy, taking off the
&t, if any, serving the carrots and potatoes with it or separate.

7. Another Way, — If an ordinary dish, put the potatoes over
the carrots, also a few onions sliced, and the beef on trevet, as usual.
When the meat has been too lean, put a piece of fat on the top,
and cover the beef with a coating of pudding-paste, No. 319.
When done remove the paste, and brown the meat with a shovel,
like yon would do venison ; both meat and paste are excellent,
the meat being full of gravy.

MEAT PUDDINGS.

233. Puddings, — ^Although the same word with the samo
meaning exists in all European languages, yet it may properly
be said to be peculiarly English, as pudding has become quite a
national dish. The various counties of England have each a
particular way of making them, and it is almost impossible to
give any method hitherto untried.

The first most important point is never to use any meat that
is tainted, fbr in pudding, above all other dishes, it is least
possible to disguise the confined process which the ingredients
midergo ; the gradual heating of the meat, which alone would
accelerate decomposition, will cause the smallest piece of tainted
meat to contaminate all the rest. Be particular that the suet
and fat are not rancid, ever remembering the grand principle,
that everything which gratifies the palate nourishes.

Tainted meat, you wiU justly say, is bad in whatever way it
may be cooked ; true, but take a joint which, in the middle of
summer, from some trifling cause, has some small part a little
tainted, and which is ofi^on sold cheap to those who cannot afibrd
to purchase better, this, by the worst part being cut away,
rubbed with a piece of charcoal, if for roasting, or a piece of
charcoal put into the water, if for boiling, at once renders it
sweet ; but our great national dish cannot be subjected to this
process. Although the tastes of all people differ ; some may like
the haut gout of high venison or the wild fowl, and possibly
might like the same in pudding, yet ?t is our duty here to
point out those things which are nourishing, and likewise
those that are not; therefore, I here send you some receipts
which will please eveiybody's taste, everybody's palate, and, I
hopo, everybody's poeket.

98 UEAH PUDDINGS.

234. JBetf Fvdding. — Take about one pound of fteak, cut
lengthways in three pieces, and then slantwajs at each ind
instead of in lumps ; but should you buy cuttings of meat froi
the butchers, then remove all the sinew and over fat, and ci
the large pieces slantways, put them in a dish, and sprinli
over with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of pepper, and a tei
spoonful of flour, the same of chopped onions; mix we
together, make six or eight ounces of paste as No. 319, roll it \
the thickness of a quarter of an inch, or a little more, pi
pudding-cloth in a basin, sprinkle some flour over it, lay in yot
paste, and then the meat, together with a few pieces of fal
when full put in three wineglasses of water ; turn the paste ov<
the meat, 90 as not to form a lump, but well closed ; then tie tl
cloth, not too close on the paste, or it will not be light ; boil-
fast in four quarts of water for one hour; take it out, let it stai
a few minutes to cool the doth, cut the string, turn back tl
cloth, place a dish on the top, and turn it over on it, remove tl
cloth, and serve.

235. — 11 you choose to add a kidney it may add to tl
richness of the gravy, also a few oysters, or even a mushrooi
!rhe crust should always be cut with a knife.

K you carefully follow the above instructions you will have
pudding quite perfect, the paste as light and as white as sno^
and the meat tender, with a thick gravy.

236. — OhservaUon* You will perhaps be suiprised that I reoommei
it to be boiled £ist instead of sunmering. I do so, because the met
being enclosed in the paste, and sometimes in a basin, is alone sulge
to the action of simmering in its own gravy. These puddings lose
less amount of nourishment in cooking than any other kind. In
large pudding a few sliced potatoes is not bad. This may truly '
considered as much a national dish as roast beef and plum puddin
and being so, it is surprising that it is so often made badly, and inc
gestible : the pieces o£ meat and £sit often cut two inches sqnai
instead of smaller pieces ; the pudding, sometimes left half out o£ tl
water, the crust becomes hard and black, and the moat very dry.

237. Boast Betf Pudding. — ^Any remains of cold roast b€
may be done as follows : mince about one pound of cooked me
cut in dice, put on a dish, add one teaspoonful of salt, half th
of pepper, one of flour; fill your paste Avith it, add a gill
prater; covw over as usual, shake it well, tie it up in a dot

MEAT PUDDINOfl. 99

and b<»l for half an hoiur, and serve. A litde chopped onions or
pandey may be introduced.

288. Another Way. — ^Proceed as above, only add for every
pound of meat two ounces of either gherkins, pickled wahiuts,
or mushrooms, chopped fine or sliced.

239. Mince Beqf Pudding with JEggs. — Proceed as above;
omit the pickles, adding boiled ham or fried bacon instead, cut
in dice, also add two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice ; mix all
together ; boil as above, white sauce over, or melted butter.

%40. Veal Pudding, — Cut two pounds of raw veal, four ounces
of ham, or lean bacon ; season deHcately with a teaspoonful of
salt, the half of pepper, a little floiu* and chopped parsley, a gill
of water ; proceed as for the other puddings, boil two hours, and
serve.

241. Calves* Brain and Tongue of any hind, previously
cooked, — Soak and wash a brain clean, boil it for a quarter of
an hour in a quart of water^ in which has been added a tea-
spoonM of salt, a quarter of pepper, and a little vinegar, if handy.
Let it get cold, then mould the pudding; cut the brain in half-
inch slices, lay thin slices of tongue, previously cooked, on the
bottom, then of brain ; season with salt, pepper, parsley, and a
little chopped onions ; continue until full ; then mix a teaspoonM
of flour with a gill and a half of milk, or water, and pour in ;
dose the pudding, and boil one hour and serve. Cut it with a
'knife. Two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, would improve it ; also
'a little gherkin, chopped ^le, wiU vary the ^vour.

242. Sheep* s, Lamh*s, and Pig*s Brains, and Tongue Pud-
'dings, — ^Proceed as for Calves', but will not take quite so long i^
oooking.

248. Caites* Head and Tongu/e.-^Tki^ remains of any &om a
^previous dinner can be used for puddingy with or without a little
brain: proceed as for bruin pudding. A little curry powder
added will improve it.

This will produce a better effect on the table as a pudding,
than a common hash ; for the great principle in cookery is to
please the eye, as well as the palate.

244. Lamhi Veal, or Pork Liver P«cMui9<-^^q\^^'^'q:b^

h2

100 HEAT FVDDIKOS.

of liver in slices^ ako two ounces of bacon; season With a tea^
spoonM of salt, a half of pepper, one chopped onion, one of
parsley ; mix it well with the bacon, dip each piece of liver in
ftome fionr, and lay the liver and bacon in the pudding, with a
^11 and a half df water ; boil one hour. A teaspoonful of colour-
ing mixed with the water will give a rich appearance to all
pudding gravies.

245. The same, a plainer Way, — Cut one pound of liver and
two ounces of bacon into dice, a quarter of an inch square;
season with only salt, pepper, and onions, a spoonful of flour, and
a gill and a half of water ; lay it in the pudding, and boil as
before. Stuffing No. 464 may be mixed with it.

246. lAver and Kidney Pudding »-^-V}ii in a frying-pan two
ounces of dripping, two ounces of bacon, in dice ; put it on the
flre ; when the liver and kidney are seasoned, place it in the pan,
and stir round until it is set ; each piece should be firm ; then
add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a gill and a half of
coloured water, No. 462a. When nearly boiling, place it in the
pudding, tie up, and boil three quarters of an hour. A few herbs
is a variation.

247. Mutton Pudding, — Chump of mutton is the best part
to make into pudding, which cut in slices as for beef pudding;
in case it is very fat, add potatoes, and proceed the same.

248. Sheep* 8 ILead, Tongue, and Trotters, previously cooked^
may be made into a very nice pudding, proceeding as usuaL
A few pickled walnuts, sliced^ may be added.

249. Ijomh Pudding, — l?ake the breast, and relnove the big
bones ; cut it crossways, season lightly ; have some veal stuffing
ready, and lay the meat and stuffing in alternate layers in the
pudding, with a gill and a half of water to every pound ; boil one
hour and a half; serve with melted butter over ^e pudding, and
a little chopped parsley on the top ; it has an inviting efiect.

Any part of the lamb may be done the same way.

250. PorTc Pudding » — Get about a pound of pork, as lean as
possible ; any cuttings will do ; cut them into slices ; season with
a little chopped sage, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper ;

roll the pieces up, and put them in the pudding with a few slices

HEAT PUDDIKOS. 101

•f potatoes, onions, one apple; add a gill and a half of water;
cover as usual, and boil for one hour and a half.

251. Sabbit Pudding, — ^A rabbit cut into about sixteen or
eighteen pieces, and a quarter of a pound of bacon, sliced ; season
in proportion to size, as before, and if for a numerous family, add
ten potatoes and four onions, sliced, and half a pint of water ; boil
for two hours, or according to size. Boiled rice may be added
instead of potatoes. Well intermix the meat with the vegetables
or rice.

252. Chicken Pudding. — Cut one into eight pieces, half a
pound of bacon, cut into slices ; season with one teaspoonM of
salt, half of pepper, two of chopped parsley, a little thyme, and
one captain's biscuit, well broken; fill the pudding with the
meat, add half a pint of milk, boil for one hour and a half;
serve with melted butter over, and chopped parsley on the top.

253. Pigeon Pudding. — ^Pluck, draw, and stuff two pigeons
with t)ie stuffing No. 464 ; then cut some large thin slices of beef,
and some of the bacon ; season well ; roll the pigeons in the meat
and bacon, lay them in the pudding ; boil four eggs hard, cut
them into quarters, and fill the cavities with them ; mix a tea-
spoonful of flour with half a pint of milk, or water, close up, and
boil for one hour and a half, and serve.

2%^ same in Brown Oravy. — ^Add a tablespoonful of colour-
ing, a little more salt and pepper.

Young wood-pigeons may be done the same way, but will
take half an hour longer doing.

254. Partridge and Cabbage Pudding j'^Mi a Savoy cab-
bage into four pieces, removing some of the outside leaves ; boil
it for ten minutes, let it get cold, press the water out, cut
off the thick root, and cut the other in slices ; then stuff the
partridge as No. 464, place slides of bacon round it, lay some
cabbage in the pudding, paste as usual, season the partridge, and
lay it in with six or eight button onions, then the remainder of
the cabbage, a giU of brown gravy. No. 2, or coloured water. No.
462 A : boil two hours, if an old bird, or one and a half, if young.

255. Young Booh Pudding, — ^If these young inhabitants of
the woods and forests are eatable in pies, I do not see why we
shonl4 not give the^^^ fdler tb^ir wild career, a soft bed of repose

• 102 MB AT FUBDIKCHSt.

HI a pudding crufit. Open them by the back, then draw them,
divide them into two, and then into quarters ; extract the big
bones, leaving the flesh only ; beat each piece flat, and season
with salt, pepper, and a little grated ginger ; make a stuffing
with the liver, No. 464 b. Lay on the crust a sHce of bacon, then
ihe birds, then a slice of steak ; season with, any aromatic herbs,
or chopped onions, leeks or mushrooms j add a gill of ale, or
wine, gravy or water ; boil one hour and a half, and serve.
Pigeons may be done in the same way.

256. FUk JPudding. — Take two pounds of cod fish, cut in
slices about the size of flve-shilling pieces, half an inch thick ;
fill the bowl with the paste, as usual, lay some of the fish on the
bottom, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, onions,
H little flour and pieces of the liver, if any, then the fish, and
80 on until Ml ; add a gill of milk or water, shake it well, tie up,
and boil one hour, and serve. A little bay leaf and thyme may
be added, if handy.

All fish may be done the same way« varying the flayoiur
according to taste^

257. Msh Pudding, a plainer TFoy.— Cut one pound of any
fish in small pieces, season with salt and pepper on a dish, a
little flavour ; mix well, put in the paste with a gill of water, and
if you have a wine-glass full of any fish sauce, add it, cover
up, boil one hour, and serve.

258. Mackerel I^udding, — Cut off the heads of two mackerel,
cut each one in four pieces, keeping the roe in ; fill the pudding
with the pieces, season with salt, pepper, a Httle chopped onions
and fennel, add a giU of water, boil one hour, and serve with
fennel sauce over.

259. Bel Pudding.''-4^i in long pieces, season with salt,
pepper, chopped onions, parsley ; add a gill of water ; wine or
beer is yeiy good, and proceed as for the others.

260. Baked JPziddings.-^'Mj excellent friend, you must be of
the same opinion as the rest of the world, namely, that variety
is charming in almost every movement of life, therefore you will
not object to my new proposal to send it to the baker's ; when
the oven is at a moderate heat, they will be found excellent^
l^tJaag different to a pie* The doth of course is not required.

MEAT PIES. 103

only gprease the basin ; lay on the pasto when the contents are in;
make the paste meet eqoally on the top, moisten with water, roll
out another piece about a quarter of an inch thick, put it over
when fit, and cut away the trimmings from the edge of the
basin, egg it over, bake in a slow oven, giving about the same
time as you would for boiling; when done, shake the basin
well, to make the gravy the same thickness throughout, and
serve, taming it out on a dish ; perforate the top.

261. JPuddinffs liaJf steamed cmd boiled, — ^Put in a pan a
quart of water, when boiling, put your basin in with the pudding
in it, boil gently one hour or more, according to what your
pudding is made of; add boiling water occasionally, so as always
to keep the same quantity in the pot. By having previously
well buttered the basin, when done, by passing a knife between
the paste and the basin, you may tm*n or cut it out, and pour
over any appropriate sauce you like. They may also be steamed,
as now almost every kitchen possesses steam pans, in connexion
with the boiler of the range; or put some water in our new
baking-pan, put in the pudding, and send to the oven.

XXPOBTiirr OBSBBTATIOUri OV TEE ABOTB BBOEIPTS.

I must not forget to tell you, Eloise, that any of the above sort
of puddings, no matter what made ot, if sweet or savoury, is prefer-
able made in a benn to being put in a doth, which is often very dirty
in appearance; while, if bdled in a basin, the paste receives all the
nutriment of tiie meat, which, if boiled in a cbth, would evaporate
in the water, if by neglect it ceases boiling. If you wish to turn it
well out, thoroughly g^rease the inside of your baiun when making.

0» Puddmg Clothaj'^A. pudding cloth, however coarse,
ought never to be washed with soap; it should be dried as
quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and in a
draw or cupboard free from smelL

MEAT PIES.

■Faxnotri to making any pie do not omit reading the very important
remarks I have made at the introduction of fruit pies, see Index.

902. Be^eah Pie. — Cut two pounds of steak into about
twenty thin pieces, lengthways, M included, season them with
two teaspoonfols of salt, oiie of pepper, and a little chopped
herbs, and place them symmetrically on the dish, forming it hi^h

104 HEAT PIES.

in the centre. Add half a pint of water, in which has heen pat
two tablespoonfuls of colouring. Cover over with paste (No. 317)
half an inch thick, and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Pud-
ding paste No. 319 may be used. For variety of pie-dishes see
appendix.

A little stuffing rolled up in the meat makes a change, and u
fit for the best table.

A few spoon^ils of Harvey's sauce is likewise a change.

263. Family Steak Pie. — Take and cut two pounds of beef
in slices, two pounds of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of onions ;
season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper; mix it
well together ; put the meat and potatoes into the pie-dish, in
alternate layers; add a pint of water; cover over, as above,
and bake for one hour and a half.

264. Veal Pie. — Delicate veal and ham pies can be made
like the above, rolling up the veal and a little ham, or bacon,
together, and a little stuffing, if handy. Proceed as for steak^
or as for family steak-pies.

Pork pies may be made in the same way.

265. Babbit Ptc. — Cut the rabbit up as for pudding
(No. 251) ; roll the pieces in flour, then put them in the pie-
dish, with some slices of ham or bacon; season with salt,
pepper, chopped onions, nutmeg, (grated, if handy), according
to size; add half-a-pint of water; cover, and bake. A tea*
spoonM of curry may be added, instead of pepper.

Por family rabbit pie proceed as for family steak pie.

266. Fish Fie, — ^Proceed in every way as for puddings, and
bake one hour. Oysters, muscles, perrywinkles, cockles, Aa,
may be used.

267. Save Fie. — If it is a large hare it is best to jug it, as
No. 216, cut in half crossways. Save the back and legs for
roasting, and with the front part, which cut in pieces, make
the pie. Put some steak at the bottom of the dish, with salt,
pepper, and chopped onions ; dip each piece of hare in flour, lay
them on the steak, make some small balls of veal stuffing, which
place in various places ; cover over with more steak ; add half^
a-piut of water ; finish with paste as usual. When baked, shake
the dish to mix the gravy. The addition of a glass of wine, a

TEQETABLES. 105

few herbs, and two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly, is a great
improyement.

268. The Artisan's Pie, — ^Any pieces of meat, but not to»
fat — ^four ounces of fat to every pound of meat is enough. Take
two pounds of meat cut in slices, season it with three teaspoon-
fuls of salt, one of pepper, four sliced onions ; peel four pounds
of potatoes, out in thick slices, which place on the bottom of
the dish, then a layer of potatoes, then the meat ; season well ;
add a pint of water, and bake for two hours.

Trimmings of meat of all kinds may be purchased in every
large town, especially in London, and are the proper pieces for
such economical pies ; in buying them, take care there is none
tainted, as it will produce the effect as described in introduction
of puddings. Cover with crust, as No. 319.

269. JPoor Man's Potatoe Pie. — ^Wash and peel six pounds
of potatoes, cut them in slices ; take half-a-pound of the fat of
mutton or beef, or dripping, cut into small dice ; season the
whole with a teaspoonful of pepper and three of salt; cover
with paste. No. 319a, and bake one hour and a half

A bloater, boned and cut np with the fat, makes a nice
cihange of flavour.

VEGETABLES.

As I have befbre remarked, the food of man, in order to give
proper nourishn^nt, should be often varied; in &ct, his health
depends upon it, and nature seems to have g^ven him those instru-
ments, the teeth, by which he is enabled to masticate both animal and
vegfeti^le food, besides having provided him abundantly with vegetable
produce, which seems the balance, in point of health, between that
and rich animal food. It is to be regretted that the labouring poor
of this country do not partake of more vegetables than they do at
present. If we travel over the country, we are surprised to find
how small a portion of ground is engaged in horticulture ; the oon-
aequenoe is that, excepting near large towns, scarcely a vegetable is
to be ohtained, and the poor are doomed to live almost entirely on
bread and cheese and a small portion of animal food, not even a
potatoe is to be bad during the winter and spring of the year. It is .
Siud by some, that the cHmate being colder than on the continent,
the blood requires more heating food, and that in the summrjr the
English are as much vegetable eaters as their neighbours | if socU

106 VEGETABLES.

is tlie case, why not, then, add to the vegetables, in cookings then
those elements which would give all that animal food does.

The most important of all the produce of the field is wheat, bi
that we shall treat of hereafter, under the head of bread. The mot
important of vegetable produce is the potato, a root the £ulin
of whose growth produced a famine in one of the most productii
countries in the world. It is a root in universal use, and yet
acknowledged to be by every one the least understood how to be cooke<
A writer in a public journal, the other day, speaking of a well-boile
pGbeAo, says " that at present it is a thing purely ideal — ^it has nev<
come out of the pot, hi the experience of living man.'' And why
Because people boil all potatoes alike. If you ask Betty why A
boiled the potatoes in such a manner, she. answers, " My mother, <
my sister, did so, and they were good." And so with everybod;
little thinking that almost every potato differs ; even the produce <
the same seed will often differ in the same field. This is caused I
the different soils, and the different manures applied to those soils.

The present potato is quite a different root from its parent on
which grows in the Caribbean islands.

Animal food, although flesh, differs in its nature, and reqnin
diffei*ent cookery. A Welsh or a Kerry leg of mutton requires to 1
treated quite different to a Leicestershire or Southdown.

Thus it is with the potato. Some require quick boiling, othe:
slow ; some plenty of water, others little ; some are best b^ed i
their skins, others peeled ; some large ones require to be out in tw
others will spoil if cut ; and so on through all the various g^radation

I therefore consider it requisite, that if a potato is found not 1
be good by one system •of boiling or steaming, to try anothe
Boiling, as I have said before, is the most simple process of cooker
and it is easily tried.

Potato hoiled.-^Meg Dods says there are great varieties <
potatoes, and ftQly as many i^ays of cooking them, but recon
mends boiling in preference to steaming. Mrs. Bnndell pre&i
steaming, or, if boiled, in plenty of water, and when half don
some cold water and salt thrown in, and boil tmtil not ^nil
done, and then left in the pot near the fire.*

* This is the Irish peasant's way ^he wishes to fiust for six honn
as it leaves the bone or moon in it. The origm of the word In Irisl
au gJtealeach, is thMt, when a half-cooked potato is cot in two, tl
centre shows a disk, with ti halo around it, like the moon. Th
does not digest so quick, and allows the person who eats it to ^
longer without food, which I eonsider a great detriment to the coatix
of ibfi Mt&auteht

VEGETABLES. 107

Mm. Glasse najn, Boil in as little water as possible, without
burning the saucepan.

Mrs. Acton gives only the Lancashire way ; this is, peeled
and boiled slqwly ; when done, salt thrown over, and then the
pot shook violently for some time, so that they are broken. She
lenMurks that this method is not economical.

Having given these, it is only right I should give my ideas.
As I have before said, they all, perhaps, require a difierent
system. K steamed, salt should be thrown into the water, and
not on the potato, and when done, remove the steamer, and also
the oover.

270. Soui to choose Po^a^o^f .—-Observe, as a general rule«
that the smaller the eye, the better the potato, as when they
are too full in the eye they are either of an inferior quality, or
are running to seed. To ascertain if they are sound, nip a
piece from the thickest end with your finger nail ; if good, the
inside will either be of a white, yellow, or reddish hue, according
to the sort and quality ; if, on the contrary, they are spotted,
ihey are bad, or getting so; but though this part may be
slightly touched, by cutting a little off the outside they may
prove fit for boiling ; though they ought to be bought, when in
this state, at a cheap rate. Potatoes always get bad in the
.^ of the year, Ae. lie old ones axe^g out. and the
new ones for some time continue to possess but little flavour,
and are watery when boiled. The old ones ought to be peeled
and steamed, and mashed, or baked in an oven, under a joint,
or fried in fat,^as No. 298 ; for when done whole in their skins,
at this time of the year, the slightest spot spoils their flavour.
The new ones are tasteless and watery, and, as I described above
to you, are much better cooked when put in very hot water, but
not boiling, than when put in cold,

271. — ^If boiled, it may be that they require to be put into
boiling water, or, may be, in cold, and either boiled quick or slow,
bat this you must find out. Choose all about the same size, with
a smooth skin, and when they are boiled and begin to crack,
throw off the water immediately, as it only damages the root.
Stand near the fire, with a cloiJi on, and serve in skin. Salt
should be put into the water at the beginning. A watery
potato will require quick boiling, and sometimes to be put in
boiling water. If very watery, and they will not boil mealy.

108 VEGSTABLESr

put them into the pot in their skins, fill up with water, and i
piece of lime the size of a nut, and they will turn out mealy. I
is unnecessary here to explain scientifically the cause of this.

272. New Potatoes — Should he cleaned, and the skin ruhhe^
off with a coarse cloth ; add a little salt if the skm is dry. Pa
them into very hot water, and boil from fifteen to twent]
minutes. Take them out of the water and let them draii
before sending to table, throwing some salt over them. If verj
small they will not take above ten minutes.

273. Baked JPotatoes, with the skin on, should be chosen t
large size (regents), placed in a slow oven and so that they do nol
touch ; or if in a Duch or American oven, before the fire, thej
should be turned often ; they will take from one and a half U
two hours. If without their skins, they should be done in i
brown pan with fistt, turning them occasionally.

274 Baked Potato with Sausage {called 8oyer*s Potato),^
Take a large potato and cut out a round piece as big as a slul'
ling, through the potato ; put in the scoop and remove some oj
the inside, fill this with sausage-meat or veal stuffing, cover the
hole with a part of what you cut out, and bake with cut pari
uppermost.

275. Mashed Potatoes,'^Afb&r having boiled twelve middling
sized potatoes until mealy, peel them, if with the skins on, and
remove the eyes or specks ; put them into a bowl, and take two
forks in one hand, with the points of the prongs turned out-
wards ; break the potatoes up with them ; when breaking, add
an ounce of butter and a gill of milk or a little more to tiiem,
and half a teaspoonful of salt, to every pound, and a pinch of
pepper; they should be beat a great deal, until they become
quite light ; they should never be hard like paste, as is often
the case when stirred with a spoon.

Potatoes, if large, might be peeled, and cut in four pieces,
put in boiling water with some salt^ boiled rather fast, and well
drained when done ; let the pan stand near the fire to dry your
potatoes — ^three minutes will do it — and mash them as above.

276. New Boasted Potato, — This should be a large potato
•—the kidney kind preferred — should be half boiled, the skin
remove^ put int^) fb baking dish; well ^bbed ynth butter or faly

VegetablI:s« 109

and dredged with a little flour, salt and pepper, and put into
the oven, or before the fire, either in an American ol: Dutch
oven, until done ; they ought to be of a nice brown colour, and
are very relishing.

277. Jerusalem Artichoke should be well washed and peeled,
and pat into a saucepan of ioarm water, with salt in it ; boil till
tender, then serve them up ; if to be mashed, mash them at once,
with salt, pepper, and butter ; if whole, keep them covered until
served. Melted butter over improves the look.

They may be mashed with a little gravy; put in a dish,
biead-Grumbed over, and put in the oven, and are very nice.
Or they can be treated in every way like turnips.

278. Tumtps, — ^Peel them, and boil in plenty of water, in
which has been put some salt ; boil till tender, and serve either
whole, or mashed. If mashed, they should be put in a saucepan
over the fire, with a bit of butter, or some milk, salt, and a
little pepper, and a pinch of sugar, mashed up until rather dry,
and serve.

A few capers mixed in the mashed turnip, is an improvement
for boiled mutton.

270. Swedes* — This wad a vegetable in very little use for the
table until the year of the famine in Ireland, when M. Soyer
prepared it for the viceroy's table. It should be treated in every
wi^ like turnip, but ctlt into quarters for boiling. The middld
■ize are only fit to use.

•

280. Carrot. — ^This root varies quite as much as the potato $
tome are quickly done, evexi in twenty minutes, and some require
two hours. They should be scraped, akd boiled in water and
salt; served cut in quartei^s lengthways.

281. Tarsnip and the White Carrot, •^The same as the
larrot.

282. JRed and 1lV%ite Seet, — These should be washed, but
not scraped, and put into the pot with the skin on ; when done,
which is known by pressing the thick part, to see if it is soft,
or by probing it with a skewer ; remove the skin, cut it into
slices, put it in a pan, with either gravy, butter, or milk, and a
little vinegar, salt and pepper, boil it up, and serve. It is also
good when cold, for salads.

110 VEOETABLBS.

FIBST AND GENERAL LESSON IN THE COOKING
ALL KINDS OF VEGETABLES.

283. Asparagus is a vegetable between the root and the
and requires more cooking, like the latter. It shonld b(
scraped at the bottom part, tie them np in bundles ci not
than twelve heads, have ready a pot of water, say three qum
every hmidred heads, in which yon have placed one
spoonM of salt, and if the water is hard half a teaspoon
carbonate of soda; if they are a good size boil for t
minutes^ and serve with a slice of toasted bread nndei
melted butter separate, or cream sauce No. 424.

This, when cold, is very good with oil and vinegar, sal
pepper.

The small, called tpreWf is veiy excellent broken sm
clear 9(yu^,

284 Celery, — Dress like asparagus, catting ojET the ;
leaving the branches six inches long ; serve on toast, witiii i
butter or brown gravy over, iying three or four sticks tog

Sea JElxZc.— Clean the root and boil like asparagus, and
the same on toast, with either melted butter or cream sauo

285. Ch^een Cabbage and iSfavoy*.— These close-leaf
tequire well washing and soaking in salt and water
boiling ; the stems should be removed, and then boiled in
gallon of water, with two teaspoon^s of salt and a little
These proportions will do for all vegetables. If the plan
iarge they shonld be cut in fdur.

286. Sprouts, /Spring Greens, Turnip Tops, ^c. —
only require washing before boiling, and boil till tender
same quantity of water as above.

287. Stetoed Cabbage or Savoys. — Cut in thin slices,
drain, and boil till tender; drain them free from water ; pt
a clean pot two ounces of butter or fat, and a little sal
pepper ; when hot add the cabbage, and stir it well until
dry, then throw over a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirrin
then add a cupM of either broth, milk, or water, let Ix
mmuteg, and servtf.

VfiGEIABLES. Ill

288. Spuiach requires to be well washed, and the Btalks
picked off; boil a quarter of a sieve in the same quantity of
water as above for ten minutes ; take out, drain, press with the
hands or plate to remove the water, and serve it as plain greens ;
or put it on a dean board, and chop it fine, put it in a stew-pan,
witk a quarter of a pound of good butter or fiEit, a teaspoonful of
ialt, two of flour, half of pepper ; place it on the fire, with two
gills of milk or broth, lor a few minutes, and serve with toast
round. More strong gravy may be added, or even milk or cream.

289. Green Peas, — ^This, of all the pulse vegetables, is the
most liked, and the most in use ; and perhaps in no country in
Europe can they be obtained in the same perfection as in
England.

The water should be boiling, and say one quart of peas to
two qnarts of water, with the same amount of salt as before';
put i^e peas in, leave the cover off, and boil till tender ; drain,
and serve, with a piece of butter put on the dish. K mint or
savory is liked, add it while boiling.

290. Broad or Windsor Beans, — ^The appearance of this
Tegetable is generally spoiled because it is boiled with a piece of
iNicon ; they ought to be boiled alone like the peas, and very
tasif and if young do not take longer. They should be served
vith parsley and butter. When the skin is wrinkled they are

891. JFkreneh and Kidney Beans^'-^'Readt tail, and string
them ; cut them down in thin strips, or in the middle, throw
\bem into boiling water, in which a little more salt than usual
has been put ; boil for fifteen minutes, and serve either plain or
with parsley and butter, and a Kttle pepper and salt.

These are skins of the pulse, and are considered exceedingly
wholesome for persons who take much exercise, and eat freely of
miimal food ; they purify the salt of the blood.

292. Brocoli and Cauliflower should bo put in salt and
water some time before cooking, and require close examination,
that no insects are inside ; cut off the root and the large leaves ;
.fhej should be boiled in boiling water, and will take about ten
minutes. There are a variety of ways of usmg these vegetables,
bat in general a little too complicated for our work.

112 VEGETABLES.

293. Calijlo toer and Brocoli, with Cheese fifattce.— Boil two
or three middle-sized cauliflowers, make half a pint of thick
melted butter, adding a little cayenne pepper, if handy, grate
four ounces of good cheese, Cheshire preferable ; mix this well
with the sauce, and when boiling pour over the cauliflower or
brocoli; set either in an oven or before the fire for fifteen
minutes, until it gets brown ; the yolk of an e^^ may be added ;
bread-crumb over, and serve. Kno grater, cut your cheese fine,
it will melt in boiling.

Jerusalem artichokes, Scotch kail, and Brussels sprouts, are
also very nice done this way.

PLANT CALLED THE THOUSAND HEADS.

Ok seeing this plant growmg in great abundance in Yorkshire^ I
inquired of the farmer on whose land they were — ^if they were a
vegetable for the table, and their name ? when he informed me that
they wiere intended for spring feeding for sheep, during the lambing
season; that he never used them as human food. I asked him
to let me have some to try and see how they eat. He did, and
I cooked them like greens ; and an exceeding nice vegetable they
are. They are also good stewed, and cooked with a piece of bacon.
As they grow at a time of the year when other green vegetables ar6
scarce, I consider them a valuable article of food. They are sowA
about April, the small plant put out about October, and planted about
three feet apart, and by March or April the whole field will be om
luxuriant crop ci greens.

Farmers in the vicinity of large towns would do well to undertake
their cultivation, as they would find a ready sale in all such places^
At that time of year they are in full bloom, and are called by the
above nngnlar name in consequence of the thousands of heads con-
tinually sprouting from their root. The plant covers nearly one yard
in drcumference, and bears no resemblance' to any other green I
jlrecollect seeing, not even to Brussels sprouts.

294. Saricots and Lentils, — ^No receipt is more simple, or
easier done, than any of these vegetables ; there is hardly a cot-
tage in France but what has them in stock, as they will keep
good for years.

Should you be short of potatoes, or supposing they are expen*
sive, or even as a change, some of these are an excellent sub-
stitute ; one quart will make, when cooked, four pounds of solid
Ibod.

TEOETABLBS, tlS

HarieoiB, plain boiled, should be first washed, then put into the
black iron pot one quart of them, with four quarts of cold water,
one ounce of butter or fat ; boil them gently for three hours, or
till tender ; the water will be nearly absorbed, if the haricots
are good ; draw off the remainder ; mix in a pint of it three
teaspoonsM of flour, half ditto of pepper, add it to the haricots;
boU &r ten minutes, keep stirring, and serve, adding three
teaspoonfuls of salt ; an ounce of butter is an improvement.

A little meat of any kind may be cooked with them, just the
came as dried peas, only these are to be eaten whole, and four
anions in slices, Med, may be added with the seasoning, when
the haricots or lentils are nearly cooked. The broth, if ample,
when strained from them, may be used as soup, with bread in it.

295.. LentiU, — ^Wash them as haricots, and cook them as
such, putting them in cold water ; they will not take so long,
but try when tender. Meat is exceedingly good boiled wiUi
them, and they make good soup.

These make an excellent salad, both in winter and summer.
See Index.

The liquor of either makes a nutritious soup, by adding fried
onions, a little flour, pepper, and salt, and poured over bread
previously sliced and put in a soup basin.

I herewith send you the receipt I promised you on Kettles, which
I tried while in Norfolk.

296. iVe^^/etf.— Wash them well, drain, put them into plenty
of boiling water with a little salt, boil for twenty minutes, or a
little longer, drain them, put them on a board and chop them
up, and either serve plain, or put them in the pan with a little
salt, pepper, and a bit of butter, or a little fkt and gravy from a
roast; or add to a pound two teapoonsfuls of flour, a gill of
skim milk, a teaspoonful of sugar, and serve with or without
poached eggs.

TuTe^rdkary spring prodootlon. of which few know the
l^ae, is at once pleasing to the sight, easy of digestion, and at
a time of the year when greens are not to be obtained, invaluable
as a purifier of the blood ; the only fiiult is, as I have told you
above, Eloise, they ai*e to be had for nothing ; it is a pity that
ehildrea are not employed to pick them, and sell them in market
towns.

tl4 TIGSTABIilft

Ano&er nnitted vegetable is mangel wnrzel. The yottng leaj
of the mangel wnr2el> cleaned and oooked as above, is extremel]
good.

In aU mj various visits to cottages daring this spring, ]
have found but one where either of the above vegetables were id
use, and that belonging to a gardener, who knew their value.

These nettles are good during five months of the year ; foi
even when large, the tops are tender. They make exoellent tea,
which is very refreshing and wholesome.*

296a.— iSWe^ Docks, also a wild vegetable, or weed, are verji
good when done as follows, using about two-thirds of sweet dock,
and one-third of nettles, boiled with a little carbonate of 8od&
When done, strain them, and to about one pint basin full, add one
onion sliced and fried, a sprig of parsley, a little butter, pepper,
and salt ; put into a stewpan on the fire, stir, and gradually add
a handM of oatmeal ; when you think the meal has been suffi-
ciently boiled, dish up and serve as a vegetable.

297. Large I>ry Green Teas. — One quart of peas, soak for
twelve hours ; put into a pan with one gallon of water, some
&t, six sliced onions, one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, one of
pepper; simmer for two or three hours, or till tender, drain
the peas, then add to them half a pound of flour, mixed in a pint
of cold water, three teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter of a pound cA
batter j boil twenty minutes; serve with bacon over.

Small dumplings may be boiled in it ; they will take half aa
hour.

298, Fried potatoes, — ^Peel a pound of potatoes, cut thein
into very thin slices, almost shavings; put some fat into a
frying-pan ; when very hot, but not burning, throw the slices in,
not too many at a time, as they will stick together ; move them
about with a skimmer, to prevent it. When a nice brown colour,
take them out, and sprinkle some salt over; serve them up
separate, or over broiled meat. Two inches of fat ought to be
in the pan.

299. JMed Cooked Potatoes, '•^'Let the fat in yoor frying*
pan be about two inches deep ; when smoking hot, add in five
or six potatoes, cut crossways in thin slices, letting them be

^ * The best way to pick nettles is to quickly gmsp a haadftili hf
doing which yon feel no sensation of pain, or by wearing gloves.

EGOS. 115

previouBly dried m a doth ; siir with a spoon ; it will take about
ten minutes to do them crisp ; take them ont, drain and dish
them, sprinkling a little salt oyer.

EGGS.

Tmua, from the earUest records we have, have always been a
fitvoorite facdf with the exception of a short time in Greece, where
a few philos(^)her8 endeavoured to make the people refrain fi*om
eating them, as they stated that they contamed the four elements of
the worid.*

They are a nutritious food, whokisome in every way, except when
boiled too hard; although there are some stomachs which reject
them. They can be employed in almost every dish with advantage,
and one weighing two ounces contains nearly the same amount of
nourishment as an ounce of meat and an ounce of bread; therefore
when eggs are eighteen fbr a shilling, equal to two pounds four
oonoes^ t^y are not a very dear artide of food.

800. To ascertain that they are good and fresh, eandle them, as it is
called; that is, hold them upright between the thumb and finger of
the right hand before a candle, and with the left hand shade the eye,
by which means you will be enabled to detect any spots that may be
in them ; if a ftw white spots only, they will do for puddings, &c.; if
a black one, throw it away, as it is perfectly bad. If light and
Inmsparent, they are fresh.

801. I^ffi Plain Soiled, — ^This is the most simple of all things
to cook, and yet is the least attended to ; and I am never surprised.

* Singular Tdeeu of the Ancients in relation to JJ^^«.-^-Orpheu8,
I^jrthagaras, and their sectators — good and humane people as ever
lived — unc^iringly recommended in their discourses to abstain from
eggs, in order not to destroy a' germ whidi nature had destined for
the production of chicken. Many allowed themselves to be persuaded,
and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had eaten
a tiny omelette, or boiled eggs. Many of the most learned philoso-
phers held eggs in a kind of respect approaching to veneration,
because they saw in them the emblem of the worid and the four
dements. The shell, they said, represented the earth; the iidiite.
Water; the yolk, fire; and air was foimd under the shell.

The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs
without the aid of fire : they placed them in a sling, whidi they
tamed so rs^y that t^ frk^fcion of the air heatod them to the
exflcJt p^M Nipitrsd <fer Mm.—So^^ PantropSteon

i2

116 EGGS.

wlien I am travelling, to find the eggs either too mnch or too little
iione. They will not take the trouble to distinguish a large one from
a small one. Whilst some weigh only an ounce and a half, others
weigh two and a half; but as that is a whim of nature, and the
servants are so fond of attending to other fi*olics, they will not see
the difference in this ; but as all cookery books say three minutes,
and the mistress has told them the same, they are right, and she is
wrong. From two and a half to four minutes, acoorcUng to size, is
the time they will take. Ten minutes is sufficient to set an egg
hard, not thirty, or more, as some persons do by neglect.

You know, my dear Eloise, how fidgety I am about such trifles.
I have, therefore, invented a cooking clock, with very distinctly
marked time ; the hand is pushed back to any time named, and at
the time required the bell strikes. I mean to adopt it for general
kitchen use for all dishes^ from an egg to a heavy joint. See Ap*
pendix.

302. To Boil Sggs, — ^Put a pint of water into a small pan j
when boiling, put two eggs in, and boil according to size — as I
have before said, from two and a half to four minutes. Fresh-
laid eggs will not take so long, and if only just set, are excellent
for clearing the voice.

303. — ^To boil them for toast, they require six minutes ^ take
them out, throw them in cold water, remove the shell, and cut
them into slices ; put them on the buttered toast, a littb pepper
and salt, and serve. These are excellent with a little ketchup
put on the eggs, then bread-crumbed, salamandered over, and
serve.

304 Baked Bggs, — ^Fat half an onnce of butter into a small
tin pan ; break four eggs in it, keeping the yolks whole, throw
a little pepper and bits of butter and salt over ; put in the oven,
or before the fire, till set, and serve. They will take about six
minutes doing.

305. Poached Eggs, — Put in a small pan half a pint of
water, half a teaspoonful of salt, three of vinegar ; when boiling,
break careMly in the pan two nice eggs, simmer for four
minutes, or till firm, but not hard ; serve either on toast or fried
hacon, or ham, or spinach, and on any minced and seasoned
vegetable.

306. Mixed JSggs.'-^Biesk four eggs into a frying-pan» in
wJu'eh you have put two ounces of butter, a Uttlo salt and pepper i

VABIOUS OMELETTES. 117

«ct it on the fire, stir round with a wooden spoon very quickly,
to prevent sticking to the pan ; when all set, serve either on
toast or dish. Fried bacon cut in dice, a little chopped onions,
or mushrooms, or a little sprew grass, well boiled, may bo added
to the above.

307. Eggs and Bacon, — Cut some bacon very thin, put into
a frying-pan half an ounce of butter, or fat, lay the bacon in it ;
when fried on one side, turn over, and break one qq^ on each
piece ; when the eggs are set, put the slice under the bacon, and
remove them gently into a dish. Ham may be done the same.

808. Sggs, Con/vent JF<wAt(W. — Boil four eggs for ten
minutes, put them in cold water, peel and slice thin one onion,
put iuto a fiying-pan one ounce of butter ; when melted, add the
onion, and ijry white, then add a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well,
add about half a pint of milk, till forming a nice white sauce,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; when
nicely done, add the eggs, cut into six pieces each, crossways ;
toss them up; when hot through, serve on toast.

309. Eggs and Satcsages. — Boil four sausages for five
minutes, when half cold cut them in half lengthways, put a little
batter or fat in frying-pan, and put the sausages in and fry
gently, break four eggs into pan, cook gently, and serve. Eaw
sausages wiU do as well, only keep them whole, and cook slowly.

Omelettes or Fraise^

Where is the man or woman cook but says they know how ta
make an omelette, and that to perfection? But this is rarely
the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that
no one could cook a firadse, as it was then called, for the great duke
but herself.

The great point is, if in an iron pan, it should be very clean and
free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed
on the fire. The best plan is to put it on the fire, with a little fat,
and let it get quite hot, or until the fat bums ; remove it, and wipe
it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will be able to make the
'Omelette to perfection.

310. Omelettes, — ^Break four eggs into a basin, add half a tea-
spoonM of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, beat tliein up well
with a fork, put into the frying-pan one ounce and a half of
butter, lard, or oil, which put on the fire until hot \ then i^o^ in.

118 YABIOUS OMELETTES*

the eggs, which keep on mixing quick with a spoon until all i^
delicately set; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying
hold hy the handle, and raising it slantways, which will give an
elongated form to the omelette ; turn in the edges^ let it set a
moment, and turn it over on to a dish, and serve.

It ought to be a nice yellow colour, done to a nicety, and
as light and delicate as possible. It may be served in many
ways, but some of the following are the most common : — ^two
tablespoonfuls of milk and an ounce of the crumb of bread cut
in thin slices, may be added.

311. Omelettes with JSerhs. — ^Proceed as above, adding a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half ditto of chopped onions or
chives, or a little eschalot ; salt and pepper, and semi-fry as above.

312. Bacon Omelette, — Cut one ounce of bacon into small
dice, fry in a little fat; when done, add the eggs, and proceed as
above.

Ham, if raw, do the same as bacon ; if cooked, cut in dice, put
in the eggs, and proceed as before.

313. Omelettef, — Oysters, mussels, periwinkles, or shrimps.
When the omelette is nearly done, add a few tablespoonfrds of
either of these sauces in the centse ; turn the omelette, and senre.
For the above, see Fish Sauces.

Any cooked vegetables, as peas, sprew, &c &c, may be used
in omelettes.

314 Sweet Omelettes,'^'Bes.t four eggs into a basin, add ft
tablespoonful of milk, a teaspoonfrd of sugar, a pinch of salt, anjL
beat them well up ; put some nice butter into pan, put in the
eggs, and fry as before described. Serve with sugar sifted over.

314l. Preserve Omelettes, — ^When the omelette is nearly done,
put in the middle some preserve of any kind, turn it over ofi
plate, and serve with sugar over.

315. Omelettes with Spirit.-^TheBQ are the above omelettes;
serve with spirit round them, and set on fire when going to
table. Bum is generally preferred.

PASTBT, 11&

ON PASTRY.

Osn of the oldest and most current modes of cooking, eitlier by mixing
oil or butter with the fbur, sweetened, scented, or flavoured, according
to the fimcy of the cook, is pastry. The Romans had their peculiar
cakes of paste, the Egyptians had theirs ; in fact, all countries have,
during the periods of the greatest prosperity, endeavoured to add to
the number of their luxuries new modes of making paste. With
pone of these have we, at the present moment, anything to do ; our
task is to show how paste can be made to suit everybody.

My excellent Eloise, I think you are wrong, fbr once, in proposing
that I shoTild g^ve various receipts for sweet pastry. I know you
possess a sweet tooth, but let those who require first-dass sweet
dishes, purchase our <* Modem Housewife;" no doubt their pocket is
equal to their taste ; at any rate, the few I now give will, if pro]^rly
made by a person of taste, lead them to do others that might vie with
the most expensive dishes.

The following receipts will be continually referred to^ therefore
IQiey ought to be made with care.

315a. Puff Paste, — ^Put one pound of flour upon your pastry
Mb, make a hole in the centre, in which put a teaspoonM of
salt, mix it with cold water into a sofbish flexible paste with the
right hand, dij it off a little with flour until you have well
deared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than
you can possibly help ; let remain two minutes upon the slab,
then have a pound of fresh butter, from which you have squeezed
all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency
as the paste, upon which place it ; press it out flat with the
hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the
butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of
half an inch, thus making it about two feet in length ; fold over
one third, over which again pass the roUing-pin; then fold over
the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends
top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and
over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before ; flour
a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice, if handy, or in some
oool place, for half an hour $ then roll twice more, turning it as
before, place again upon the ioe a quarter of an hour, give it
two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready £Dr usei
as directed in the following receipts. You must continually
add enough flour while roUing to prevent your paste sticking to
theslftb.

120 PASTBT.

When I state that upwards of a htmdred different kinds of
cakes may be made from this paste and the following, I
am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge u-on every cook the
necessity of paying every attention to their fabrication, as it will
well repay for tiie study and trouble. One fourth of this quantify
may be made.

316. JSalf-puff Paste, — ^Put on the dresser or table one
pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter,
mix all together, then add half a pint of water, or little more ;
form a sofkish paste, do not work it too much with the hand, or it
will make it hard and tough ; throw some more flour lightly over
and under, roll it out with a rolling-pin half an inch thick, about
a foot long ; then have half a pound of fresh butter equally as
stiff aa the paste, break it into small pieces, and put it on the
paste ; throw a little more flour on it, and fold it over in two
folds, throw aome more flour on the slab, roll it out three or
four times, letting it rest between each two rolls, and it is then
ready for use.

It can be made with lard instead of butter.
The yolk of an egg, or the juice of half a lemon, added to tlie
water, makes it lighter.

dl6A. Half butter and half lard may be used, or if butter is too
dear, use all lard; if neither, mix well with the flour two
ounces of dripping, no salt, lay it on the board, and mix half a
pint of water, till a sofbish paste ; roll it out, then chop a quarter
of a pound of good beef suet very fine, mix with a quarter of a
pound of good dripping, free from water or gravy, roll out the
paste, and add the dripping and suet as preceding receipt.

317. Plainer Paste, for Meat Pies, — ^Put into a pan half a
pound of flour, quarter of a pound of dripping, half a teaspoonful
of salt, rub all well together for about three minutes, add by
degrees half a pint of water, mix the paste well ; it requires to be
rather hard; throw some flour on the board, roll, and use it
instead of puff paste ; three, or even two ounces, of dripping will
be enough where economy is required, or many children to feed.

Where the cottager has a small garden, in which he can
grow a few herbs, which I have already recommended, then
introduce in the paste a little chopped parsley or eschalot, a very
small piece of winter savory or thyme, or bayleaf chopped fine ;
these herbs cost little, and are at once relishing, refreshing, and
wliolesome.

PASTBT. 121

By the same mle the same paste will do for fruit pies, mixed
with a little grated lemon or orange-peel, with the addition of a
teaspoonful of sugar.

318. Short Paste, — ^Put on a slab or board a pound of flour,
two ounces of pounded sugar, or whitey-brown, six ounces of
butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, hdf a pint of water,
mix sugar and butter well together, add it with the water by
degrees to the flour, and form a nice paste, but firmer than puff-
paste; use where described.

In a farm-house, for a treat, they use cream to make this
paste.

. 319. Pudding Paste, -^lai Class Paste. Put on a slab,
table, board, or basin, one pound of flour, half a pound of
beef or mutton suet, chopped rather fine — the first is prefer-
able — ^form a well with your hand in the centre of the flour, add
the suet, a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper ; moisten all with
water, working the flour in by degrees, till it forms a stiff paste ;
work it well for two minutes, throw a little flour on the slalv
with the paste on it ; let it remain five minutes, then roll it out
to any thickness you like. This will be referred to very often,
therefore pay particular attention to it, and give it an important
place in the book. For savoury pudding, I sometimes vary the
flavour, by adding a little chopped parsley, or a little onion, or
thyme, or mushrooms in it.

^d Class Paste. Proceed the same way, putting only six
ounces of suet.

drd Class Paste. The same, with four ounces.

4th Class Paste. The same, with four ounces of dripping.

Lamb, veal, and pork fat, may be used ; but as they do not chop
80 floury, the paste is heavier. But they can be used for baked
puddings, which I have introduced at page 102 in that series.

320. Pruit Tart, French fasMon.-^This requires a mould
or a tin pan ; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then
take the remains of half puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden
it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a
quarter of an inch thick ; place your mould on a baking-tin, put
the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all
the form of the mould, without making a hole in the paste; put a
piece of paper at the bottom, fill with &uit to the top, and bake

\22 I'AfiTBY.

a nice colour ; it will take about half an hour baking mih to
firuit in season; put plenty of sugar over, according to tl
acidity of the fruit.

321. Afioiher. — K you have no mould, make a quarter of
pound of paste (No. 318), roll it round or oval to your fancy,
quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half a
inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumb and finger
making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill it wit
one row of fruit if large, two rows if small ; remove the stone
and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit ; it wi
take less time, too, than if in a mould : You see what variatio
can be made with very little trouble or expense.

322. Small Pastry, — Make a quarter of a pound of half pu
paste (No. 318), roll it to a thickness of a quarter of an inci
cut five or six pieces out with the rim of a tumbler ; put eac
piece in a separate tin, shape it well in forming a nice thin ru
round the edge with your finger and thumb, three parts fill wit
either jam, stewed fruit, sweetmeats, custard, pastry, or crean
bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes ; dish up in pyn
mids, and serve. See Index.

323. Little Fruit Missolettes.'^l also make with the trin
mings of puff paste the following little cakes : if you have abof
a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very tbii
about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoanful of an
marmalade on it^ about one inclw and a half distance from eac
other, wet lightly roimd them with a paste-brush, and place
similar piece of paste over all, take a cutt^ of the size of a onnr
piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam. i
with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, the
eut them out with one a size or two larger, lay them on
baking-tin, egg over, place in a nice hot oven for tweii<j
punutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to mak
it quite white, then put back into ^e oven to glaze, and serve.

323a. Plain Puff Paste Cal;e.— Make half « pound as N(
316a ; when done, roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, co
as many pieces as you can with the cutter, or with the edge c
a glass, wet a baking sheet, place them on, egg well over, sii
some sugar on each, bake from ten to twelve minutes, an
serve.

^ABTRir. 123

. 324. Oranga'aud Almond Cakes. — Froooed as above, but lay
orange marmalade all over a quarter of an incb thick, four ounces
of almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and
the white of two egg added to it ; lay the almonds all over the
mannaladfi, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in a diamond
shape, dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid ; they ought
to he of a nioe transparent colour. Apple or quince marmaladd
may be used instead of orange.

326. ^Preserve Cake, — ^This style of cake is exceedingly
drnpLe, and admits of great variation. You must make half a
pou^ of puff paste (No. 316a), take one third of it and
roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it
round with your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out fiat
to the thickness of a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put
bn it marmalade, or any other preserve, a quarts of an
inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to
"fix the cover on, then roll out the remainder of the paste
to the same shape, it will of course be thicker ; wet the edges
of the bottom, and lay the cover on it; press it so that it
•tickB, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the
back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch
^part all round ; og^ over, and lightly mark any fanciful design
\dth the point of a knife on the cover ; bake in a very hot oven
isa twenty minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar
OTer« froit it with a hot shovel, and serve cold.

826. Small Cream Cake — ^The former one must be made in
proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the foUowing
is simple, and looks as well : Prepare the paste as before, but
roll the bottom piece about a foot square, put it on a baking-
sheet, cover with half an inch of cream (see Index), leaving one
inoh round the edge ; roll the cover the same size, wet the edges,
place it over, trim them, mark it down every three inches, and
then crosswise eveiy inch ; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and
aalamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it ;
thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you twenty-four pieces;
dish as a crown or pyramid. Twelve pieces make a nice dish for a
party. They may be made of any puff paste which is left, but
will not be so light as if made on purpose ; can be cut to any
&nciful shape you please. Any jam may be substituted for cream.

124 PASTRY.

327. Fruit Crusts. — Cut a French penny roll lengthwise in
four slices, put the yolk of one egg with four spoonfuls of milk,
mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saut^ in a
quarter of a pound of hutter which you have previously melted
in a frying pan ; leave them on the fire until they have obtained
a nice gold colour on both sides ; put three spoon^s of orange
^ marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry or brandy,
and place on the fire ; when on the point of boiling, pour over
the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve
very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine ; and
should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will d.o, or even
the crumb of common bread. Any kinds of jam may be used.

Nursery Dumplings.

Having, the other evening, been invited to a children's party at
Farmer Laurence's, near Oswestry, and the supper being composed, for
the most part, of dumplings of various sorts, so as to please the chil-
dren, I made the following experiment, which proved quite soo-
cessful.

328. — Greengages being very plentiful, I went and gathered
some, and made the following fruit dumplings. I made half a
pound of paste (No. 319), rolled it out rather thin, then cut a
piece round with the rim of a tumbler, moistened it, and placed
a gage in the centre, adding a half teaspoonful of sugar, inclosed
all in the paste, thoroughly closing the rim, then placed oH
the baking-sheet, the smooth part uppermost, and baked them
from ten to twelve minutes, serving them up with sugar. They
made a beautiM dish.

Gooseberries, rhubarb, cherries, and mulberries, can all be
done this way. All kinds of plums can be done the same.

329. Plain Cheese Cake. — Put half a pint of milk curds,
well drained, in a basin, add to it an ounce and a half of butter,
stir perfectly smooth, put in three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one
ounce of washed currants, one egg, half a pint of milk, and any
flavour you like, as lemon, orange, &c. &c. Prepare your paste as
No. 322, fill up the tins with this, bake the same, and serve.

PASTEY. 125

NATIONAL FRENCH CAKE OR GALETTE.

DsABBST Eloise, — ^Thero is one little and perhaps insignificant
French cake, which I feel cert^n would soon become a favourite in the
cottage, more particularly amongst its juvenile inhabitants. It is the
&med galette, the melodramatic food of the gamins, galopins, me-
chanicB, and semi-artists of France. Show me one of the above-named
dtizens who has not tasted this irresistible and famed cake, after
liaving digested the best and most sanguinary melodrama, from the
•* Courier of Lyons" to the "Corsican Brothers," andfirom the " Pilules
da Diable" to the " Seven Wonders of the World," after having
paid their duty to the elegance of the performance and performers, and
enturely forgetting, as usual, the author, who is supposed to live in his
tomb, whilst the actors and artists are dead in reality. Setting that
xm. one aide, observe that the last Seventh Wonder is over, the red-
blue-green fire no longer required ; the scene-shifter bolts and gets the
first cat, smoking hot; then, also, rush the audience, full of melodrama
and anything but food, to the galette-shop, where the Fh-e Cou^C"
toujowrs (Father Cut-and-come-again) is in full activity, taking the
money first, and delivering the galette afterwards. Six feet wide
by ten long is the galette-shop, and very clean, and above one
hundred feet of galette is sold in less than one hour, at a sou or two
thecat»

Such is, even in sammer, the refreshment of the admirers of the
Boolevard da Crime.

Like everything which has its origin with the million, it soon aims
to an aristocracy of feeling, and I was not a little surprised, the last
time I was in Paris, to see a fashionable crowd round an elegant
ihopf close to the Gymnase Theatre; on inquiring of a venerable
citizen, who was anxiously waiting, with ten sous in his hand, the
motive of such a crowd, he informed me that ho was waiting his
torn to buy ten sous worth of galette du Gymnase, which he told me
was the most celebrated in Paris. He passed; and then ladies,
beaatifully dressed, took their turn; in &ct, the crowd brought to
my recollection the description of the scene of the bread market at
Athens (described in Soyer's ** Pantropheon"), where the ladies of
fiishion or the petites mattresses of ancient Greece used to go to
select the delidous puff cake, called placites, or the sweet melitutes,
whose exquisite and perfumed fiour was delicately kneaded with the
predous honey of Mount Hymettus. At all events, I was determined
not only to taste, but to procure the receipt if I possibly could ; and
as yoa know, Eloise, I seldom ful, when determined, the following is
a copy.

330. Aristocraiio Galettc-^Work lightly in a basin or on a
(able one -gouxA of flow with three quarters of a ]^und of froali

126 PIES.

butter ; add two eggs, a gill of cream, and a little milk ; if to<
stiff, then add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar
work ail well, to form a good stiff paste, throw some flour on ih
table, mould the paste round, roll it three quarters of an ind
thick, and quite round, egg over, score it with a knife ii
diamonds, or any other shape ; bake for about half an hour !i
a rather hot oven, sprinkle sugar over and serve. A pound o
either puff, No. 315Ay or half puff paste, Ko. 316, will make i
very light galette ; sugar over, and bake as above.

331. Cottage Galette, — ^Put one pound of flour, a teaspoon
ful of salt, six ounces of butter; moisten with milk, and baki
as above, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.

332. poor Man's Galette. — One pound of flour, a quarter o
a pound of lard, moisten with milk, or water ; proceed as above
moisten with a little water on the top, and dredge sugar over
If no lard, nae dripping.

JNTRODUCTION TO PIES, BOTH SWEET AND SAVOUEl

No matter how ridiculous it may appear to Mrs. Smith, or Mzi
Browu, or Mrs. Any-body-else, do not omit to give room to the fol
lowing remarks on pies. Never mind how dmple these remaik
may seem to you, the million will understand them welL fa
example, where is the little boy or girl in Great Britain who has no
eaten pies sweet and savoury f From childhood we eat pies — ftaa
girlhood to boyhood we eat pies — ^from middle age to old age we ea
pies — in fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our besr
companions du voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind
not tbey who leave us ; for our children and grandchildren will be ai
fond of pie as we liave been ; therefore it is needftil that we shoidt
learn how to make them, and make them well ! Believe me, I an
not jesting, but if all the spoilt pies made in London on one s!ngl<
Sunday were to be exhibited in a row beside a railway line, it wo^
take above an hour by special train to pass in review these cuHnarj
victims ; therefore see the importance of the subject. If we oonk
only rescue to proper stancUng half a mile of pies and pfe-emst^ ]
think we should deserve a piece of plate, or at least a piece of one o
our disciple's pies.

* How to Make a Pie to Perfection. — ^Tfhen your p^ste ii
ear»fuIfymade(N6, 310), or short paste (Ko. 318), whieh requii^

pisfl. 127

no more time than doing badly, and your pies and iarta properly
full — (thk is the laat and most important process in pie and tart
making) — ^throw a little flour on your paste-board, take about a
quarter of a pound of your paste, which roll with your hand, say an
inch in circumference ; moisten the rim of yoiur pie-dish, and fix
the paste equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled
your paste for tiie covering of an equal thickness, in proportion
to the contents of your pie (half an inch is about correct for the
above description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your
pie, turn the other half over, press slightly with your thumb
round the rim, cut neatly the rim of your paste, form rather a
thick edge, which mark with a knifb about every quarter of an inch
apart ; mark, holding your knife in a slanting direction, which
giyes it a neat appearance ; make two small holes on the top ;
egg over with a paste-brush ; if no egg, use a drop of milk or
water; the remaining paste may be shaped to fanciM designs
to ornament the top. For meat pies, notice, that if your
paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow or
too short, and requires pulling one way or the other, to make it
fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer
protecting the contents. It is the same with meat ; and if the
paste happens to be rather rich, it pulls the rim of the pie to the
dish, soddens the paste, makes it heav^^ and, therefore, indi-
gestible as well as unpalatcable. A little practice and common
sense will remedy all those little housewifery tribulations, and
probably improve the appearance of this series of dishes.

883. plain Apple and other Tart — Peel and cut about two
pounds of apples, sharp ones being the best for the purpose, cut
each in four pieces, removing the cores, then cut each quarter in
two or three pieces, according to size ; put half of them in a pie-
dish, slightly press them, so that they lay compact ; put over
two ounces of brown sugar, then put in the remaining apples,
then add another two ounces of sugar, making the apples form a
kind of dome, the centre being two inches higlior than the
sides ; add a small wineglassful of water, cover the top over with
paste No. 318 ; bake in a moderate oven from half to three-
quarters of an hour.

All kinds of apples will, of course, make tarts, but if the
apples be sweetish or too ripe, you need not put in so much
sugar, but add double the quantity of water $ in this c^ the

128 SWEET PUDDINGS.

addition of a little juice of a lemon is an improvement to vary
the flavour ; use also a little grated or chopped lemon or (urange-
peel, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, or mixed spioe^
or four cloves,

Green rhubarb and greengages will require a little more
sugar, adding nothing else but the fruit ; proceed as for ap^e-:
tart; pink rhubarb does not require pealing; ripe currants^
raspberries, and cherries, abo as above; plum, damacm, and
mulberries the same.

SWEET PUDDINGS.

334. Plum Puddin^.'—'Pick. and stone half a pound of
Malaga raisins, wash and dry the same quantity of currants,
chop, not too fine, three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, put it
in a convenient basin, with six ounces of sugar, two ounces of
mixed candied peel sliced, three ounces of flour, three ditto of
bread-crumbs, a little grated nutmeg, four eggs, a gill of water,
or perhaps a little more, to form a nice consistence ; butter a
mould, put a piece of white paper over the top and round the
sides, tie it in a cloth, boil for four hours in plenty of water;
when done, remove the cloth, turn it out of the moidd, take tha^
paper off the sides and top, and serve with sweet sauce round ; it
may al^o be boiled in a cloth.

The above is only for Christmas. Now for every day.

Put into a basin one pound of flour, one of chopped suet, half'
a pound of mixed fruit, a little spice, grated lemon-peel, three
ounces of sugar, two eggs, half a pint of milk, or enough to
make it a proper thickness, tie it in a cloth, boil four hours,
turn it out, and serve with melted butter, or sweet sauce ; bread-
crumbs instead of flour is good, or half of each.

335. A Series of Economical Puddings, which can he made
either in a mould, basin, tart'dish, or tin cake-pcm.'^-'Wf^
butter either, fill lightly with any of the following ingredient! :
—Either stale buns, muffins, crumpets, pastry, white or brown
bread, sliced and buttered, the remains of sponge-cakes, ma-
caroons, ratafias, almond cake, gingerbread, biscuit of any
kind, previously soaked. For a change with any of the above,
you may intermix with either &esh or dried fruit, or preserves,
^yen j^lxans, grated cocoa ni^t, &Q, When your mould it Ml of

SWEET Ain> FRUIT PUDDIK6S. 139

ei^bM of ihe above, put in a basin a quarter teaspoonful of either
ginger, a little mixed spice, or cinnamon, if handy, grated
orange, lemon, or a few drops of any essence you choose ; put in
three eggs, which beat well, add three gills of milk for every
quarter mould. When the above is well mixed, fill up nearly
to the rim. It can be either baked or boiled, or put into
a saxioepan one-third full of water, with the lid over, and let
simmer for about one hour. Pass a knife round the inside of
the basin or mould, turn out your pudding, pour over either
melted butter with a little sugar, the juice of a lemon or spirit
sauce. It ought to be the pride of each cottager's wife to find
out a peculiar and cheap mixture, which would entirely depend
on the part of the country in which she lives, that would be
liked by the family, and give it as a treat every Sunday.

335x. M^it Pt*rfrft«y*.— Such as green gooseberry is best made
in a basin, the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, roll-
ing it round to the thickness of half an inch ; then get a pint of
gooseberries and three ounces of sugar ; after having made your
paste, take half the fruit, and lay it at the bottom of your basin,
then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the
gooseberries in and the remainder of the sugar ; on that draw
your paste to the centre, join the edges well together, put the
doth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil in plenty
of water. Fruit puddings, such as apples and rhubarb, should
be done in this manner ; boil for an hour, take out of the sauce-
pan, ontie the cloth, turn out on a dish, or let it remain in the
basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover of the paste
may be rolled round and put over the pudding.

Bipe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengage, plums, and sucli
like fruit, will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling.

836* Curd Milk JPudding^^^VvA, in a basin three eggs, a
little grated lemon-peel, three ounces of currants, one pint of
cards, and one pound of bread-crumbs ; boil in a cloth half an
hour ; turn out and serve.

337. Cocoa Nut Pudding, ^^GroiB half a nut, add another egg
to the milk, mix with the above . An ounce of flour may be added.

338. Plain Rice Pudding, "^^e^ a quarter of a pound of
rice, put into a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, three
OQucca of Imtter, three ounces of su^ar, UmQu-'^d^ ^w&ss^^x*^

130 • SWEET AND PRUIT PUDBIXGl

the rice is tender, add two eggs, previously well beaten, n
quick, put in pie-dish ; bake half an hour, or till set.

339. Spotted Dick. — Put three-quarters of a pound of Ho
Into a basin, half a pound of beef suet, half ditto of curran
two ounces of sugar, a litUe cinnamon, mix with two eggs ai
two gills of milk ; boil in either mould or cloth for one bo
and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over,

340. Liffht Dough Dumplings. — Get one pound of doug
make it into small balls the size of eggs, boil in plenty
water, and use it for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butt
and sugar, or with gravy.

Two ounces of chopped suet added to the above, or to t$;
the flavour, add a few currants, a little sugar, grated nutmeg,
lemon-peeL

341. Apple and Paste Pudding in Basin. — ^Make one pora
of paste. No. 319, roll it a quarter of an inch thicks lay some in
bowl, fill it with apples cut in quarters, add two cloves, two otmtf
of sugar, a little butter, put another piece of paste on the to
and join the edge nicely ; tie it in a cloth and boil. It can \
served up either in the basin or turned out. Bo not open the ti
to put more sugar in, as it spoils the flavour and makes it heav

All L*uit puddings may be done the same way.

342. Suet Pudding. — Put into a basin half a pound
chopped suet, a pound of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of nJ
quaiier of pepper, nearly half a pint of water ; beat all well t
gether, put into a cloth as above ; boil one hour and a lialf.

343. Bread Pudding. — An economical one, when eggs a
dear. Cut some bread and butter very thin, place it in
pie-dish as lightly as possible, till three-parts full ; break into
basin one egg, add two teaspoonfuls of flour, three of brown sugai
jnix all well together, add to it by degrees a pint of milk,
little salt ; pour over the bread ; bake in an oven ; it will tal
about half an hour : this will make a nice size pudding for iai
or five persons.

This may be done in twenty different ways, by varying tl
flavour of the ingredients, as lemon -peel, orange-peel, nutm^
cinnamon, or mixed spice, or essences of any kind.
F(w ohildren^ ekim-milk, ov \\«]l£ milk 8.ud water, datesi <

trmaa akd vbttit puDDiKoa 131

Frenoli plumsi or figs, previously soaked and cut, may be added;
they are excellent for children.

844 Sroion Bread Puddings, the same way.

8441. Broken Biscuit Pudding. — ^These may be bought very
ehaip at a baker's ; they should be soaked in milk and sugar
the over night, and proceed as above or as No. 385. Stale
sponge cake may be used with them.

•

845. Biee, Macaroni, and Vermicelli Buddings. — ^Wash
A quarter of a pound of rice, boil till tender, drain it, place it in
the pie-dish with any kind of fruit, and one ounce of butter, in
lits ; pour custard No. 361 or 343 over, and bake. Yermicelli
•nd macaroni previously boiled, may be done the same.

846. The Same for a Numerous Family, or School. — Two
povnds of boiled rice, with one pound of chopped suet ; mix in
a ptn with four eggs, ten teaspoonfuls of flour j moisten with
In i^ts of water, or skim-milk ; add one pound of sugar and
ateaapoonfal of salt; bake about one hour. To vary it, a few
Smyrna rasins may be added. Apples, or any dry fruit, may
bs luwdf previously soaked as No. 243.

847* Lemon Ihimjplinffs.'^^hoj^ the rind of one lemon fine,
aid it to the juice ; chop up half a pound of suet ; mix with half
a pound of bread crumbs one egg, enough milk or water to make
a stiff paste i add the lemon ; sweeten to taste ; divide it into five
cqiud parts, and boil in separate cloths for three-quarters of aa
liour; aerve with butter and sugar, or a little honey,

MtJu Apple Dumplings.'-^'Peel and take out the cores of a
laige apple, cover it with paste No. 318 or 319, boil in a cloth,
tt plainly bake for thirty minutes. Serve with butter and sugar.

848. Anot/ter.'-^PTaii into the paste in making it, two ounces
tf iQgar } a few sultans, or plums, may also be added, and served
vMi tweet melted butter or spirit sauce over.

840. A Simple Suet Dumpling, -^Ovlq pound of flour, half a
^ound of chopped suet, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of
pepper I moisten with water imtil a stiff paste: use where
quired. They may be rolled in small balls, and may be used
ia aayoary pies, hash, or stews.

133 SWEET Aim FBTTIT Pt7D]>IKCI&

350. JRice and Preserve. — ^Boil half a pound of rice as No. ^
wlien just done, add one ounce of butter, a tablespoonfiil of cui
jelly, one ounce of sugar ; mix all well together with a fork,
serve. Apple marmalade, rhubarb, cherries, currants, and i
berry jam, orange marmalade, &c., may be used, and an imm
variation may be made. If it is found too thick, add some n
Dish up in pyramids, and serve.

351. Ground Sice Pudding, — ^Boil one pint of milk wi
little piece of lemon peel ; mix a quarter of a pound of grc
rice with half a pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, and on
butter ; add this to the boiling milk ; keep stirring, take i*
the fire, break in two eggs, one after the other ; keep stirri
butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake until set. '
is one of the quickest puddings that can be made.

352. Snow Pice Cream, — ^Put in a stewpan four omice
ground rice, two ounces of sugar, a few drops of the esa
of almonds, or any other essence you choose, with two ounfic
fresh butter ; add a quart of milk, boil from fifteen to tm
minutes, till it forms a smooth substance, though not too th
then pour in a mould previously oiled, and serve when cold»
will turn out like jelly.

If no mould, put either in cups or a pie-dish. The rice
better be done a little too much, than under.

353. Sandy Pudding. — Remove the inside of three len
into a basin, take out the pips, add half a pound of sugar, '
well ; roll a long strip of paste, as for rolly-polly pudding,
the mixture over with a spoon; roll and boil the saim
rolly-polly pudding.

Orange can be done the same way, with the addition q£
juice of half a lemon.

354. Young England Pudding. — ^Make some paste, No. i
roll and lay it in a basin ; then roll about seven or eight very 1
pieces the size of the bason; then get a pound of treacle, or gol
83rrup, and pour a little on the paste, squeezing a little let
juice, and chop up the rind of a lemon, and sprinkle a little o^
add the other pieces of paste, and then the treacle and 1»
until ML, Boil in a doth for one hour, and serve with 8<

treacle over*

SWEET AND FBUIT PUDDIKOS. 133

I think I Temevaiber telling yon, my dear Eloise, of the pleasant
iixne I passed at Boulogne two summers since, and of our little trip
ho the Yallee Heureuso, or Happy Valley, near Marquise, a charming
Village near Boulogne. In the course of our ramble on that plea-
sant day, we all gathered a lot of blackberries — ^but such berries aa
tre do not meet with in England; they are a luscious, ripe fruit.
Ilieae we took home with us to the hotel, and the next day boiled
ISbexD. up with a lot of sugar, and made them into a pudding like the
above, nidng the fruit and syrup instead ot treacle. It was very much
Jiked at dimier, which was a table d*h6te, and the colour somewhat
imembling TJnde Tom's face, it was at once christened with that
same, and is now known as Vncle TonCs pudding. A little port
wine sauce may be used, and also bhick currants, boiled to a syrup.

855. Isinglasa and Gelatine for Jellies. — Dissolve two
ounces of isinglass in half a pint of water ; boil and reduce to
luHf, pass through a cloth into a basin ; use wliere required.

Gelatine may be used the same way.
The stock of two calf's feet, reduced to half a pint^ may ho
used instead of isinglass ; it will make it cheaper.
The stock of cow-heel can also be used.

856. Bohemian Cream. — Prepare four ounces of any fruit,
as Ko. 384, which pass through a sieve, and one ounce and a
half of melted isinglass to hall a pint of fruit ; mix it well,
whip up a pint of cream, and add the fruit and isinglass gra«
dually to it ; put it in a mould ; let it set on ice or in any cool
place, and when ready, dip the mould into warm water, and turn
Dot

357. White Creamj-^VxA, into a bason a quarter of a pound
4f sugar, a gill of pale brandy, and one and a half ounce of
«lliher melted isinglass, gelatine, or calf's foot ; stir it well, and
«dd ft pint of whipped cream ; proceed as before. Bum, noyeau,
enra^a, or other liquors or flavours, may be added. When
labors are used, add less sugar^ If you have any ice, use only
an ounce of either.

•

358. Calfs'foot Jelly, — ^It is possible, even in the poorest
family, that jelly may be recommended in cases of illness, and
they may be at a distance from any place where it could be
purchased. I think it right to give the following receipt : — *

Cut two calTs feet and put them in three quarts of water ;
when boiling, remove to the side of the fire, and let it simmer
'fiom three to four hours, keeping it skimmed; pass it through a

184 8WSKC AND FBUrr PUDDOfOfi.

sieve into a bafion, where it must remain until quite liaid ; tim
remove all the fat, &c., from the top. Put into a pan half a
poond of white sugar crashed, the juice of four lemons, the rind
of one, the whites and shells of five eggs, two glasses of white wine
and a pint and a half of water ; stir till the sugar is melted, then
add the jelly; place it on the fire and stir well until boiling |
then pass it through a flannel bag until dear. Put in a
mould with or without fresh firuit. Set in ice or any oool
place, till firm. Brandy, rum, or any liqueurs, may be addad^
or serve plain.

359. Orange Jelly. — Procure five oranges and one lemon;
take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon« and
remove the pith, put them in a bason, and squeeze the juice ni
the fruit into it ; then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a
stewpan, with half a pint of water, and set it to boil until it
becomes a syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind
of the fruits; cover the stewpan, and place it again on the
fire ; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add a gill
of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification ; let it boil
another minute, whenadd an ounce and a half of isinglasSydissolved
as directed (No. 355), pass it through a jelly-bag, or fine sieve; add
a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then -
fill a mould and place it on ice ; turn out as before. This jel^
does not require to look very clear.

360. Lemon Jelly is made the same way, only using di
lemons and the rind of one.

To those who wish to save trouble, I would recommend fhem td
buy their jellies ready made. They may be purchased at ifanosl
every Italian warehouse in town and country, in bottles of aboot a
pint and a quart each, so prepared as to keep fresh and good ftr
years. Many of my friends use these Bottled JelUet^ of whicb I
find the following are the hest kinds : Noyeau, punch, orange, lemci^
Madeira, and plain calf 's-foot. They are all very excellent and use*
frd in their way.

Deab Eloise, — ^While on the subject of jellies and confisctioniiy,
I feel I should be wanting in duty to the public were I to refrain
from drawing their earnest attention to the recent disdosuree in the
Lancet, whidi so fearlessly exposed the poisonous adulterations foand
in the various articles of preserves and confectionary submitted to

8WXET AND FBUIT PUDDIKGS. 13ff

OTwnhirtion. Thero is not a doubt these disdosures have had a most
Iwfieflflial efifiBct in checking the existence of the ix^jurious practices
prefioiifllj adhered toj and I may now look forward with confidence
to the day when not only sach delicacies, but the whole of the food
we eat, may be enjoyed without the slightest fear of injury to out
health. Adulteration will then become the exception, instead o( as
ik hitherto has been, the nUe,

Hie fbUowing paragraph^ copied fh>m the Lancet of the 4th
Vebruary, 1854, appears to me not an inapt illustration of my
lonarkif displaying^ as it does, the difference between pure and
impure preserves, accompanied by the gratifying intelligence of the
posribilxty of procuring them in a wholesome state.*

361. JPtain Custard, — ^Boil a pint. of milk, in which place
two onnoes of sugar, the thin peel of half a lemon ; break in a
basin four eggs, beat them well with a fork, then pour in the
milk by degrees, not too hot ; mix it well, pass it through a
eullender or sieve, fill cups with it, which place in a stew-
pan, on the fire, which contains one inch of water ; leave them
f» about twelve minutes, or till set, which is easily perceived.

8d2. Coffee, Cocoa, or Chocolate Custard. — ^Make some very
rtrOD^ cofifeei-beat the eggs as above ; put in a pan half a pint

# «« The praotioe of imparting to bottled and preserved fruits and
ffgetables a bright green colour, by means of a poisonous salt of
copper, still prevails extensively. Nothing can be more permcious
than this practice ; It has, however, received a considerable check by
the publication of the reports of the Analytical Sanitary Commission
in this subject. One ten, we know, that of Messrs. Crosse and
Blackwell, whose establishment is the most extensive of any engaged
ia this branch of trade, has gone to a very considerable expense in
fitting up a large silver vessel, as well as several steam pans, which
latter are lined with a thick coating of glass enamel, for the prepara*
MoQ of their various manufiujturesi thus taking every precaution
to guard against the contact with copper. The ^fierence in tha
sppearanoe of fruits and vegetables which are artificially coloured,
and Hiote which have not had any colouring matter added, it
very great*-so striking, indeed, that a practised eye can readily
distinguish the one teom the other. The fi^rmer are of a bright
and almost metallic-green hue, much deeper than that of the
zeoent fruit, while the latter are of a pale yellowish-green colour,
varying with the nature of the fruit or vegetable preserved. As for
the difference in the wholesomeneas of the two articles, there can be
but a single opinion, while, in our estimation, the appearance in the
imooknxred sample is much the most pleasing and natural.'^

136 SWEET AKD FRUIT l^UDDIKOB.

of milk and half a pint of made coffee, with two ounces of sngaj^
then add the eggs, pass through a sieve, and proceed as above.

Chocolate and cocoa the same, only omitting the lemon-peat
in all three.

363. Custard in Pie Dish. — ^Fut a border of puff parts
round the dish, fill with the above^ and bake twenty minutoi in
a slow oven. Eat whilst cold.

364. Custard for Puddings.-^Uhe above wiH he the foundft-!
tion for any flavour that may be introduced; as orange flower
or peel, noyeau, <&c. &c. With this mixture an innumera|)le
number of puddings can be made, that in country places, or even,
towns, will be found as economical an article of food, when.
eggs are cheap, as can be partaken of, and particularly appre-
ciated by the rising generation.

365. Farm Custard.'—'PTit in a small saucepan the ybOa
of four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of sugar, the peel of half a lemooy
or a quarter of that grated, a grain of salt ; mix all well, then add
half a pint of milk ; set the whole on the fire, stir continually with:
a wooden spoon till it gets thick and smooth ; but do not let it
boil, or it will curd ; then put it in a basin to cool, stirring now
and then ; if handy, pass it through a sieve, it gives it a nice
appearance, and serve either in glasses or cups, with any fresh'
or stewed fruit, orange peel, or any essence, brandy, or nxnif '
may be used for flavouring.

When at our friend Lindley's house in Yorkshire, I took a gill of
cream, whipped it, and mixed it with the custard when cold. It
made it very white and delicate. The custard may be wluppedwlule
being made.

Ton wish to know what I did with the white of the eggs, and per*
fectly right that you should. Well, I put them in a bashi wi& a
very little bit of salt, then with a whisk I beat them iSil firm and as
white as snow, then I add four teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, mix
it well; I put a pint of milk to boU in a very dean semiS, €t
frying-pan, and, with the aid of a spoon, I scoop off the white in the
shape of eggs, dropping them in the milk, letting them remain till
done, turning them occasionally ; take them out, and serve when
cold, pouring some of the custard over ; the remaining mUk was used
for puddings.

Even now, Eloise, you do not seem satisfied, so I send you a
ifeceipt for a souffle. It seems to you, no doubt, very mmple ; let me
teU you, however, that it is so oiUy in appearance; the great aecret

SWEET AND FRUIT PUDDINGS, 137

H ia properly beating the white of the eggs ; therefore, if yon fiedl in
your sttempt, do not blame me^ the details of the recdpt being quite

366. JSgg JPudding, or Omelette SottfflS, — ^Break four eggs ;
enefolly separate the white from the yolk, put both in different
kuios ; add to the yolk three teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar
and one of flour, a little grated orange or lemon peel, or any other
flayour yon prefer ; stir the whole for five minutes, then beat
&e white of the eggs with a whisk; when firm, mix lightly with.
file yolk till forming a nice, smooth^ light, and rather firm sub-
stance ; then put it either in a tin pan, cake pan, or a common
pan, wbicb can stand the heat of the oven, buttering it well.

If in a tin dish, shape it in pyramids with a knife, put it in
a moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes, sugar over and
serve. When nearly done, an incision or two with the point of a
knife may be made through the thin crust ; it will make it lighter.
Ton may also put two ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and
when liot put in your mixture, and toss it round three or four
timet ; pat it on a dish, bake as above. Ten minutes will do it.

2&I. How to varif Bread or any Custard Puddings. — Have
lome sHoes of bread cut thin and buttered ; lay them in the dish.
imgly ; pour in the custard, Ko. 365, and bake gently, or place
in. a pan with a little water in it.

These may be altered thus :—

By throwing in some currants^

dr bruised ratafia cakes.

Or sultana rasins.

Or Malaga ditto.

Or Frendi prunes.

Or dried cherries.

.Or stewed rhubarb.

Or apple ; or, in &ct, any fruit according to fancy.

Well boiled rice, macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may be used ; the
costard always being poured over, and sifted sugar on the top.

New style, as a second-class mixture : two eggs, two table-
spoonfrds of flour, and milk enough to make it thickish.

368. Gooseberry Fool. — ^Put in a pan a quart of green
gooseberries, with a wineglass of water and half a pound of
sugar ; stew on a slow fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring ; put
in bai^, and whip a ]^t of cream ; when the fruit is cold ; mix

138 erVTEBT AND FBXJIT PUDDINGS*

with the creami and serve in cups or hollow dish, or ynSk
pastry round it.

Apple may be done the same way.

Currants and raspberries the same.

Bed rhubarb the same.

Cherries may be done the same, having previously been
stoned. If too much syrup, add a little isinglass.

369. Orange Salad. — Choose six oranges not too laise^
cut them in thin slices crossways, remove the pips, lay them nat
in a dish, cover over with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gifl
of brandy, rum, or Madeira ; stir them, and serve.

370. Strawberry Salad.'^A. large pottle of ripe strawbemeB,
picked and put into a basin with two tablespooniuk of ttigar, A
pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy ; stir gently, iiid
serve.

Currants and raspberries the tame.

Als all fruits and vegetables are destined ftit the tlie of tm^
these should be partaken of by all olasses when in Mascaii ••
they are invaluable for health.

371. Velvet Cream. — A veiy excellent dish is made thus :•-•
Put in a dessert glass a thick layer of strawberry jam or VOf
other preserve, and place over it about a pint of hot molf
cream mixture, No. 352; when cold, the top may be oniip
mented with fresh or preserved fruit.

372. Rice Croquettes, — Make some of the above mixture reiy
stiff; when cold, roll it, or serve it in any shape you like. Egg
and bread-crumb, and fry quickly in hot £*t in a frying-pan*
Sugar over.

373. Lemon JPudding. — ^Put in a basin a quarter of & poctBi
of flour, same of sugar, same of bread crumbs and chopped sne^
the juice of one good-sized lemon, and the peel grated, two
eggs, and enough milk to make it the consistency of porridge^
boil in a basin for one hour ; serve with or without sauce.

374. Dripping Pvdding, — Three eggs and their weight in
dripping, two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar; beat them up until
a cream, add a few currants, and the flour gradually, until li
foimA a stiff pasi«; bake m cups previously, buttered.

SWEET AKD FBUTE PUDDINGS. 139

• 9f6* PaUUo Pudding. — One pound of potatoes boiled and well
maihed, a quarter of a pound of butter stirred in whilst warm,
two ounces of sugar, the rind of half a lemon chopped fine, with
the juioe, a teaoupful of milk s butter a tin, put in the mixtm'e,
and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour ; two eggs may be
added.

876. Dough Pudding with Apples. — Cut four apples into
dioe, put over two ounces of sugar, half a pound of chopped suet,
Oipe pound of flour, and half a pint of water; bake in a pie dish
fir a mould, or boil in a basin, as a pudding ; sweet sauce may
be poured over.

877. First Class Yorhshire JPudding, — ^Beat up two eggs
in a basin, add to them three good tablespoonfbls of flour, with
a pint of milk by degrees, and a little salt ; butter the pan, bake
half an hour, or bake under the meat, cut it in four, turn it»
and when set on both sides it is done. A tin dish one inch and
a half deep and eight inches wide, is the most suitable for such
proportion.

878. Second Class.-^'Put in a basin four tablespoonfuls of
flour, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper,
))eat one egg with a pint oi^ milk, pour over on the flour by
jlsgrees till smooth, and proceed as above.

• 879. Third Class.--^J£ no eggs, chop two ounces of beef suet
fine, add a little soda, mix as above, and bake the same. A
little chopped parsley, chives, or aromatic herbs, may be intro*
duced in either of the above. These receipts are good with
■ny kind of roasted or baked meat, or poultry. To facilitate
the turning, when one side is brown and the pudding well set,
cut it into several pieces, turning with a knife or a fork. If
preferred served whole, put a plate on the top of the baking tiui
ten it over, and slip it back; let it remain in the tin ten
minutes longer, and serve either round or separate.

880. JPancakes.'^'FvLtihe pan 6n the flre with a tablespoonM
of lard, let it melt, pour off all that is not wanted, then pour in
three tablespoonfuls of the fl)llowing batter:—-

Break four eggs in a basin, add four small tablespoonftds of
flour, two teaspoonfuls pf sugar, a little salt; beat all well, mixing
lyy degrees half a pint of milk, a little more or less, depending
on the size of the eggs and the quality of the flour. Itmust&rm

140 BTEWED FRUITS,

A rather thick batter. A little ginger, cinnamon, or any other
flavour you fancy. Two eggs only may be used, but in tiis casd
nse a little more flour and milk. When set, and one side
brownish, lay hold of the frying-pan at the extremity of the
handle, give it a sudden but slight jerk upwards, and the cake
will turn over on the other side ; which, when brown, dish up
with sifted sugar over. Serve with lemon. Chopped apples may
be added to the batter; currants ^d eultanas can be mixed
with it.

381. Apple Fritters. — ^Peel and slice crossways, a quarter of
an inch thick, some apples, remove the core, and dip them one after
the other in the following batter : Put in a basin about two ounces
of flour, a little salt, two teaspoonfuls of oil, and the yolk of an
eg^j moistened by degrees with water, stirring all the while
with a spoon, till forming a smooth consistency, to the thickness
of cream, then beat the white of the egg till firm, mixing it
with the batter; it is then ready to fiy; use any fruit as fritters.
If no oil, use an ounce of butter previously melted^ adding it to
the batter before the white of the e^g is used.

Apple Fritters Simplified, — ^When peeled and cut, put
Bugar over, add a little lemon juice or spirits, let the pieces
soak two hours, then dip each piece in flour, and have ready a
frying-pan, with at least two inches deep of fat. When YixA,
put the apples in one at a time, turn over with a slice as they
are doing, and serve with sugar over. All kinds of ripe peais
may be done in the same way.

382. ColUge Fudding, — Put half a pound of crumbs into a
basin, a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, the same of
eurrants, two eggs, two ounces of sugar, a little nutmeg and salti
and a little milk; mix all together, make round balls, egg-cramb«
and fry in hot fat till a nice colour ; dish up with sugar over f a
glass of brandy or rum in it is exceedingly good.

383. Buttered Apples. — ^Peel, slice, and core one poimd of
apples, put into a frying-pan about two ounces of butter, add
the apple, and cover over with two ounces of pounded sugar;
put them in the oven until done. A very nice dish for children.
When done, they may be dished up on a nice crisp piece of
toast with sugar over.

384k /Slewed Fruiisr^These, at those periods of the year

STEWED PRXnTS. 141

when Nature has ordained that tbcy shall come to perfection
without artificial means, are as wholesome an article of food as
can be partaken of, as they cool the blood and are perfectly
harmless.

They are easily done, and are cheap. In the following
Teceipts, which I will mark as lessons, one pound is the quantity
named.

Apples. Ist Lesson. — ^Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices,
remove the core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces
of white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfiils
of water ; stir gently on a slow fire until tender ; use hot or cold
when required. Brown sugar may be used.

27id Lesson, — ^To the above add the juice of half a lemon or
of one orange, and a little of the peel of either, or a small pieod
of cinnamon, or in powder.

Ited JSkuharl, 1st Lesson. — Cut one pound of rhubarb one
inch long, put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and
three ounces of white powdered sugar ; stir on a slow fire till
tender.

2nd Lesson. — Stew with brown sugar : green rhubarb requires
peeling. Stir more if old.

3r(f Lesson. — Cut a po\md of the common rhubarb, put in an
iron pot with four ounces of brown sugar ; stir well with a
spoon until it is quite thick and adheres to it ; take it out to
cooL It can be used, spread on bread, for tea or supper.

Oreen Gooseberries, 1st Lesson. '^' One pound of goose-
1>eiries with six ounces of sugar ; boil with two tablespoonfuls
of water, turning them well ; stir, and keep until cold. Or by
mixing cream with it, it will make gooseberry fool.

Greengages, Orleans plums, egg plums, cherries, currants, red,
trhite, and black, raspberries, mulberries, and strawberries, may
all be done the same way.

The following is another very nice way, and may be used for
several fruits in winter. Cherries being the most difficult, we
will name that in particular. All the others can be done
like it.

Cut the stalk half off of one pound of cherries^ igixjii mta ^x^i3X

143 8WEET AND FRUIT OAKES.

with eight ounces of sugar ; set on the stove for a few minuiefl^
then add half a pound of red currants, and the same of rasp*
berries; stew altogether until getting tender and the juice
becomes quite thick ; put by until cold. It may be used with
pastry or with bread.

Siberian crabs, cranberries, damsons, and all other ixmiM,
the same way.

All the above make a very nice Hght and quick dish for
supper done as follows :-«-

Cut some nice slices of bread half an inch thick, dip them
in milk which is sweetened, or sprinkle sugar over, then dip it
into some batter of milk and flour, and fry nicely, or put some
butter in a tin dish, bread over, and put in an oven. When
quite hot and nearly hard, put some of the above fruit over, and
ierve*

385. Plum Cake, — ^Weigh one pound and a half of flour,
one of currants, well washed, one of butter, one of sugar, nine
eggs ; put into a good-sized basin the butter, which well work,
with clean hands, until it is like a cream ; in about ten minutes
it is ready ; then add a little sugar and the eggs by degrees, and
then the flour, then add the currants and line a cake-hoop with
paper, put the mixture in, set it in a warm place for one hour,
and bake it for one hour in a slow oven. Half or even a
quarter of the quantity may be made.

386. Common Sort-^Vxit in a basin half a pound of butter,
work it well, add half a pound of sugar and four eggs, beat all
well together, then add half a pint of milk, two poimds of flour,
a quarter of a pound of caraway-seeds or half a pound of
plums ; put it in a hoop or deep pie-dish, and bake two hours.

To ascertain if the cake is done, take a piece of dry wood
or skewer, pass it into the cake, and if it comes out dry, it is
done.

387. Ch'ound Mice Cake. — Break five eggs into a stewpan,
which place in another, containing hot water, whip the eggs lor
ten minutes till very light, then mix in by degrees half a pound
of ground rice, six ounces of powdered sugar, beat it well; aqy
flavour may be introduced; pour into buttered pan and bake

Judfaa hour^

SWEET AKD FBUIT CAKES. 143

887a. Vastry Cream, — ^Break two eggs in a pan, add two
taUespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt ; moisten with a pint and
a half of milk \ set on the fire, boil twenty minutes, or till it
fivms thickish smooth consistency; then add two ounces of
pounded sugar, one of butter , put in either a little orange flower
water, or a drop of any essence you choose, grated orange or
lemon peeL One dozen of bruised ratafias will be an improve-
ment, put in at the same time as the sugar. Previous to using,
add to the oream one ounce of butter, which you have previously
made very hot. This may be used for all kinds of pastry, in-
■tead of jam.

888. CUnger Cb^e.-^Half a pound of sugar, half a pound of
butter, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, six eggs, beat
well, stirring one pound and a half of flour, and add as much
milk, a little warm, as will make a nice stiff dough for bread ;
bake in pan ; it will take two hours,

888a. JRoch Cakes, — Put in a basin two pounds of flour,
half of sugar, half currants, half of butter, three eggs, beat well,
make them into balls or rock, the size of eggs ; bake on baking
aheets; a little milk may be added.

889. Common Oingerbread. — ^Put on a slab or table a
pound of flour, make a ring of it ; put half a pint of treacle
in, mix well together till forming a stiff paste, working it well.
Put some flour in a basin, to which add your dough ; it will
keep thus lor seven or eight weeks. When you want to use it,
put in any quantity of ground ginger you require, according
to taste ; mix well, roll thin, cut any size you like ; pieces about
the size of a crown are best; then put them on a baking-
sheet, bake for a few minutes, till crisp. These cakes will keep
a long while if put in an air-tight case. An ounce of butter
jnay be used to every pound of paste.

They are excellent in assisting digestion after dinner.

390. nice Cake, — ^Wash one pound of rice, put it in a stew-
pan, Mrith a pint of water, put it on the fire ; when the rice is
well soaked add a quart of milk, quarter of a pound of butter,
grated lemon-peel or a little nutmeg, or a piece of cinnamon,
boil till thick, then add two eggs, well beat) 9. UtiU ^dt^^:ctsLv

144 StTEET AKD FRUIT CAKES.

quarter of a pound of sugar ; place all in a greased pan or tin
breadpan ; bake one hour^ and serve with sugar or jam over.

391. The same a Cheaper Way, — Add to one pound of rice,
when boiled, two ounces of cbopped suet, a spoonful of flour, a
quart of skim milk, some brown sugar or treacle ; bake in laargt
pan ; eat cold ; and fruit of any kind may be mixed with it.

392. Apple Cake. — ^Butter a pie-dish near a quarter of an
inch thick, throw in a large quantity of bread-crumbs, as much
as will stick, when pressed well, on the butter ; then have sonie
apples already stewed down and sweetened, as No 384, of which
nearly fill the dish, put one ounce of butter in bits, cover
over with bread-crumbs, also half an inch thick, put into hot
oven ; when done, pass a knife round and turn it out, sugar over,
and glaze with a red-hot shoveL

If used hot, a little rum put roxmd it and lighted is very nice.

393. Spice Cake. — ^To one pound and a half of dough add
half a pound of butter, half of currants, half of sugar, half an
ounce of spice, beat all well together, and bake in a mould one
hour.

394. Little Milk Cake for JBreakfast.-'Vl&ce on a table or
slab one pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two of sugar,
three of fresh yeast, or a very small piece of German, two
ounces of butter and one egg ; have some new milk, pour in a
gill, mix all together, adding more milk to form a nice dough,
then put some flour in a cloth, put the dough in, and lay it ia a
warm place ; let it rise for about two hours, cut it in pieces the
size of eggs, roll them even, and mark the top with a sharp knife;
egg over and bake quick ; serve hot or cold.

A Common Sort — Only yeast, salt, milk, and batter, and
proceed as before.

Cottage Sort, — ^To one pound of flour, two ounces of lanL or
dripping, the yeast and skim milk.

Sweet Sort. — ^To one pound of flour tliree teaspoonful<i of
yeast, two ounces of lard or dripping, quarter of a pound of
sugar, a few currants or caraway seeds : bake quick when well
rlifeu.

8WEET AND FRUIT CAKES, 145

396. JEccteg Cake, — To a quarter of a pound of currants half
a teaspoonfol of grated nutmeg, some lemon-peel chopped fine,
one ounce of sugar, roll out about a quarter of a pound of puff
paste, No. 315, roll it round the size of a small plate, and nearly
an inch thick, then put a tablespoonful of the mixture over
it, roll another piece of paste over it, and hake a nice delicate
colour.

396. Bread Apple Cake, — ^Well butter a tart-dish of any size,
about three inches deep, cut some slices of bread quarter of an
mch thick, which lay in it so that the bottom and sides are
quite covered, stew some apple nearly dry, as No. 384, put them
on the bread until the dish is full, cover over with more butter
and bread, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour ; remove it
from the dish ; turn over, and dish it up with sugar on the top.

397. Tipsy Cake. — Cut a small Savoy cake in slices, put
them into a basin, and pour some white wine and a little rum
over ; let soak for a few hours, put into a dish, and serve with
some custard round. It may ha decorated with a few blanched
almonds or whipt cream and fruit.

These may be made with small sponge cakes, by soaking
them in some white wine, in which currant-jelly has been
diBsolved ; take twelve of them stale, which will cost sixpence
•oaik them well, put them in a dish, cover them with jam or
jelly, and thus make four layers, decorating the top with cut
preserved fruit ; dish with custard or whipt cream round.

898. Plain Cake. — Mix two pounds of dry flour with
four ounces of clean dripping melted in a pint of milk, three
tablespoonfuls of yeast, and two well beaten eggs, mix well
together, and set aside in a warm place to rise, then knead well
and make into cakes ; flour a tin, and place it in the oven in a
tin ; oarraway-seeds or currants may be added, sugar over.

399. Soda Cake, — Half a pound of good clean dripping, one
pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, not quite half an ounce of
soda ; beat the dripping well with the sifted sugar, and beat the
floor in with the soda ; bake in tins in a slow oven for one hour
and a hal£

Another, — Half a pound of dripping, half a pound of moist
sugar, half a pound of currants, one pound of fl.<^>\Y) ^ ^k^'^

L

146 BBEAD.

spoonful of carbonate of soda, three eggs, well beaten nu
mixed with half a pint of warm milk ; then mix altogether an
bake in a tin lined with writing paper.

400. Foreign JBiscuiis, — ^A quarter of a pound of hxtiJini
mix with a pound of flour, dissolve a quarter of a poiuid c
sugar in half a pint of warm new milk, pour graduallj to th
flour, dissolve half a tcaspoonful of salt of tartar in hadf a tea
pupful of cold water, add it to the flour, and make it into a stii
paste, roll out, and cut in small cakes with a wineglass ; bak9 U
a quick oven immediately.

401. Chround Bice Cake, — Six ounces of ground rice, six oniue
of flour, four eggs, half a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound o
clean dripping, a small piece of volatile salts; beat aD well togeiJier
bake one hour in a pan. A few currants may be added, anc
also a little milk, if required.

SERIES OF BREAD.

402. The bread which I strongly recommend fbr the labomlH
class, or those who shall get their bread "by the sweat of their hnm}
is that made from unbolted flour, or whole meal. It is only thi
efieminate and delicate that should partake of fine flour. The bm
of bread is increased one fifth, and the price lowered, between fhi
difierence of the price of bran as fiour, or as fodder for cattle.

Licbig says, " The separation of the bran from the flour by boItiflK
is a matter of luxury, and injurious rather than beuefidal as regaiw
the nutritive power of the bread."

It is only in more modern times the nfbed flour has been knevi
and used, and has been followed by the poor, to imitate the Inxmy d
the wealthy, at the expense of their health. Certain it i% uqf
where whole meal is used as bread, the population have better £^
tive organs than where it is not.

In Ireland, amongst the poor, it is almost a disgrace to ea§ brovi
bread. 'Dvunwj; the year of the fkmine, being at Malahide, I saWt
female, without shoes or stockings, go into a baker's shop, purdww
Iwo loaves, one white, end the other brown ; the white she CMtifld
in her hand, the brown she hid under her ev^lasting doak — fav
pride would not allow it to be seen. These ignorant pec^le should In
told that there is hardly a fiunily in England but what have on fbdr
table for breakfast and tea a loaf of each kind of bread, white 9
brown.

If the dough is made and well raised in the pan, if in small qosn*
titles, as for buns, &c throw some fiour on the table, p^ the doo^

f, and ToU it idvdral tixnoB to iorm it solid; then itliape tlie loaf or
lim; let them rise twenty minutes in a warm place, and buko
tooordiog to size.

403. Cottage JBread, No, 1.— Put into a large pan fourteen
pofuids of flour^ add to one quart of warm water a quarter of a

eit of brewer's yeast, or two ounces of German yeast, make a
le iji the flour, and pour in the water and the yeast ; stir it
well np with a wooden spoon till it forms a thickish paate, throw
a little flour over, and leave it in a warm room ; in about one
hour or seventy-flve minutes it will have risen and burst
throogh the covering of flour, then add more warm water and
firar teaspooofulB of salt, until it forms, when kneaded, a rather
•tiff dough ; it cannot be too much worked ; then let it remain

E0red with a cloth for about another hour, or an hour and a
f ; 4he time; as well as the quantity of water it takes, depends
gnaXLj on tiie quality of the flour. Cold water may be used in
ffJifnTOfftt

fhen divide the dough into five pieces; if the flour is old
9iffi good they will weigh four pounds each, and take about one
wqr and forty minutes to bake; the oven should be well
Mated, and sufficiently large to bake tbe quantity of dough you
make at one time ; if the oven is small, make only half the
fOADtlly ; the door should be well closed. If the bottom of the
oven ia too hot, a tile placed on it will prevent too much bottom
fnrt; or a baking sheet, kept half an inch above the bottom of
ttt oven, will have the same efiect.

In aome places they bake in tins, in others in brovm pans ; if
«0, tko dough may be made softer, and allowed to rise a little
loDger, though I do not approve of bread being too light, as it in
\h& tasteless and unprofitable.

40^ Milk Bread and Solli.-^Weigh a pound of flour, put
jH qathe table-dresser, or in a pan, make a hole in the centre, put
tn aqnartar of an ounce of German yeast, one egg, two ounces of
Wtter, quarter of a teaspoonM of salt, one of sugar, have half
•pint of warm milk, put a little in, mix all well together, then
|A bj degrees the flour, and also the milk ; it may not take the
klf pint, but depends on the flour ; stir all well, work it for a
J^ minutes, until it is a stiff dough ; take a little flour and rub
off the paste which attaches to the side of the basin, roll it
jcODod, throw some flour on the bottom of the basin, put in the
ioa^ keep it iQ i^ warm place for two hours, or till it has

?'8

148 BBEAB,

•

nicely risen, then throw some flour on the board, cut the paste
off in the size of eggs, flatten them with the hand, make them
long and pointed, and make a line in the centre with the back of
the knife, egg overidth a paste-brush, let them rise half. an
hour longer in a warm place, bake twenty minutes in rather a
sharp oven. They ought to be of a nice yellow colour, and
light. If the yeast is doubtful, add a little more ; brown yeast
is preferable.

Another plainer, No. 2.— Put in the centre of the flour two
ounces of lard, or good dripping, then add an ounce of Grerman
yeast, a little salt, a little tepid water, with which disMdye
both yeast and lard ; mix it with the flour.

405. Plainer still, No, 3. — ^Put a quarter of an oonott f£
yeast, salt, sugar as above, add half a pint of tepid wstor,
proceed as above; sugar may be omitted; or make a single loaf
of it in a tin pan, or roll it into a lump ; make a cross at the top
with a sharp knife, egg over, or nulk and water ; bake in la&er
sharp oven, which is easily ascertained by placing the hand on it^
if you cannot endure it for a quarter of a minute it is flt for
bread, but if it bums it is too hot.

406. The brown bread, or that made from whole meal* is to0 ^
in the same way ; the sponge will take a little longer to rise. ,, \

Milk used in these breads will occasion it to go a litfip
further, and keep it moist longer ; one pint is sufficient, and jta
get one pound more bread ; it also improves bad flour, from "&
addition of gluten in the milk. A little potato starch or
starch will improve bad flour, and occasion it to rise better.

The following are two variations for these breads:
seven pounds of flour into a pan, mix with three pints of wma
milk or water, an ounce of yeast, one ounce of salt, mix wd
with the flour, set it in a warm place for three hours, form into
Small loves and bake at once.

407. Bice Bread, — To fourteen pounds of dough add ««
pound of groimd rice) boiled in milk until in pulp and edd^
bake in small loaves.

408. Brown Bye Bread. — To three pounds of floor add ooe
pound of rye flour, the proportions of yeast, salt and water as
above, and may be mixed all at once ; it ivill ts^^ a little kngOT

to hake.

I

n

A SERIES 69 SAUCES. 149

4D9. €hod Keeping Bread. — ^Mix one qaarter of a pound of
light mashed potatoes with four pounds of flour, made into
fei^ for bread, is very good; this kind of bread will keep
Skmt for a long time.

SAUCES.

410. Melted JBuUer.^^'FTom whence is this eztraorcUnary word
deriyed ? what learned pundit could have given it birth ? — a word
which recalls so many pleasing moments, when the palate has been
graUAed by its peculiar fragrance and taste. It is, no doubt, an im-
portation at the time of the Conquest, but although having been
domesticated amongst us for near 800 years, we are very far behind
ear allies on the other side of the channel in its numerous adaptations
'tmA applications. The great diplomatist, Talleyrand, used to say,
that England had 120 religions, but only one sauce, and that
aiBlted butter. He was very near the trutb, but, at the same time,
hb should have told how to engraft 119 sauces to the original
one, the same as the various sects he mentions, have been offshoots
tfom the prinutive one which was first established In this country.

I will now endeavour to prevent his words being any longer a
ti^ipsm, and will point out how that one sauce— melted butter (French
jfoifer loifce)— can be multiplied (id infinitum, according to the ability
iif the artist.

' I Brast first premise that my melted butter is not for the table of
Am wealthy, but the simple artizan. It is not to consist of two-
tiiirds butter and one-third cream^ warmed gradually with a box
pfRlQOy but of two ounces of butter, and two ounces of fiour, half a
Iwuvoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, mixed together with
a.l|poon, put into a quart pan, with a pint of cold water; place
B on the fire, and stir continually, take it out when it begins to
ilmmer, then add one more ounce of butter, stir till melted, and
it is ready for use, or as the foundation of the following various

, . This melted butter is fit to serve at the best tables, by adding
ftoree ounces of butter ; take, as a g^ide, that the back of the spoon,
in being removed, should always be covered with the butter or sauce;
Hiis is essential, as I find that fiour varies very much. If you let
ife boil, it will immediately get thinner.

'-Mmted Butter, No, 2. — The following is also very good as the
Ibundation of sauces — it is not so ridi, and will keep longer : Ona

• I

otiiiGe of btiticr, one and a linlf of floor, a little more nll^ p
and a gill more water; simmer, and serve.

These melted butters may be improved sVigbtly hj adding 1
tablespoonfiil of vinegar.

With half of the above quantity make the following sauces,
ingredient to be mixed in the saucepan. Stir and serve when i
boiling.

411. SERIES OP SAUCES.

Anchovy Sauce, — ^Add two tablestMxmdful of essence of and:
and mix welL

Harvey's SoMce.^-^Hlie same of Harvey*^ sanee.

8oyei*8 Eeliah. — ^The same o^ Soyer's relish.

Soyef^s Muttard Sauce. — One teaspoonftil of Sqyer's mnstat

ChiU Pmeffar.^Thred teaspoonfifbl of Chili vinegar.

JSffff Sauce, — Two hard boiled eggs cat in dice and addecL

Cojpei' Sauce. — Two tablespoonsfbl of chopped capers adck
bo capers, use pickled gherkins.

Ihinell Sauce.—The same of chopped fenneL

Parsley and Butter. — ^The same of chopped parsl^.

Mild Onion Sauce, — Boil four onions in salt and water, take
l»ut, chop them up, and add them to the above with a little moe
and a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little milk or cteam.

Sage and Onion, — ^To the above, a tablespoonful of cbopj^
eage and a little more pepper.

White Sauce, — ^The yolk of one egg, and mix with milk or <
instead of water. A blade of mace is an improvement when Ik
and stir.

Celery Sauce, — ^Boil in a half-pint of white gravy, if hanc^, I
water, one fine head of celery, cut in one inch lengths and
washed, — ^it will take about twenty minutes, — add it to the n
butter. The yolk of an egg beat up and stirred in is an improvei
it may require a little more salt. Serve with poultry.

Cktcuniber Sauce, — Cut up two cucumbers lengthways, remoi
ieeds, cut them in one inch pieces, boil them in a gill of white {
with salt and pepper, add it to the melted butter; aimmes
^!erve. Sugar is an improvement.

Vegetable Marrow, when young, the same as above.

412. Brown Sauce, — Put a quarter of a pound of bntier and
tmnces of £0x0: in a aattcepan, fcnd cet it on a slow fire; keep itl

A SBBIES dF SATJOES. 151

•

fbt ten mldutei, or Mil light brown, then take it off and let it get
hitstriy cold, then pour over Anfficient brown stock, Ko. 2, to make
it a nice thickness, or like thinnish melted batter; then boil for half
an hour, skim, strain it into a basin, and nse where and when
required. If you have this sauce by you, use It instead of melted
Imtter for brown sauces. To make it darker^ a little colouring may
be added.

413. White Sauce^'^'Pnt into a convenient sized stew pan fbur
Dfonces of butter, and eight ounces of flour ; set oh fire, keep stirring
U above; take the pan j&om the fire and stir until nedrly cool, then
pour on sufficient white stock. No. 1, until it is a nice consistency ;
put it on the fire and boil for a quarter of an hour; keep stirring
continually; pass it through a sieve, and keep for use.

Half a pint of boiled milk will make it look whiter.

This sauce, when handy, is the fotmdation of hU white sauces, for
celery, caulifiower, mushroom, cucumber, vegetable marrow, Ac., or
any white sauces, instead of using melted butter. Observe, Eloise,
that I only send you these two preceding sauces in the event of a
litUe dumer partyi ts they belong to a higher dass of cookety.

FISH SAUCES.

Shrimp SaUee. — ^Pick half a pint of shrimps, and boil the skins
in a gill of water for fifteen minutes; strain the water, and add IL
with the flesh of tbe shrinips, to half a pint of melted butter, ana
iilnmer for a fbw minutes. Add a little anchovy.

Lobster Sauce, — G6t the raW eggs, or the inside spawn of the
lobster, put them on a plate with a bit of butter, and with the blade
<of a knite mash them, or pound them in a mortar ; this, when put
faio the hot melted butter, will make it red. Cut the lobster up
In small pieces, and add the soft part from the belly with it to the
■ JMlted butter (a middling sized lobster will make a quart of sauce).
JL little cayenne or Harvey^s sauce is relishing. Boil and serve.

Crab and Cra$fi$h, — ^The same as lobster.

Mussel and Oyster, — Open twelve oysters or thirty-six mussels,
lieardi and blanch them lightly in their own liquor; take them out,
xeduce the liquor, and add them to the half-pint of melted butter;
.when boiling add a little cayenne, and one ounce of butter. A drop
of cream or boiling milk wiU improve it. Or, when, your oysters ai*e
raw in the pan, add half a gill of milk and a few peppercorns; blanch
lightly, mix half a teaspoonfhl of flour with half an ounce of butter.

Sot in bit by bit, stir round, boil) and serve* A little cayenne .will
BpTove it> also a drop of cream.

152 ▲ 8EBIES OF SAUCES.

Cod'IAver Sauce, — Half a ponnd of cod-liver, previondj bcMled,
cat in large dice, with a little anchovy sauce, to half a pint of melted
batter. Mix the same as No. 410.

Fickle Sauce, — One tablespoonful of chopped pickle or piccaSify,
one ditto of the vinegar from it ; add to half a pint of meltei batter,
and boil for a few minates. Good for fish, meat, and poultry*

414. Apple Sauce, — ^Peel six good-sized apples, cut in four jneoes,
cut out the core, slice them fine, put into a stew pan with one oonoe
of brown sugar and a ^ of water; stew till in pulp, and serve with
roast pork, goose, and duck.

415. Mird Sauce, — Chop three tablespoonfuls of green mint, pat
it into a basin with three of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of nit,
a quarter of pepper, and half a pint of vinegar. Use it with roast
lamb ; also good with cold meat and poultry.

416. Horseradish Sauce, — Grate two tablespoonfuls of hone-
radish, which put into a basin ; add to it one teaspoonful of mustard,
one of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of sugar, two tablespocmiuls of
vinegar; moisten with a little n^ilk or cream until of a thickisfa
appearance. Serve with rumpsteak, cold meat, &c.

417. TTine and Spirit Sauce. — Add to half a pint of melted
butter, without salt, two teaspoonfuls of white or brown sugar, a
glass of brandy, or rum, or sherry, or any liquors.

418. Motel Keepet^s Sauce, — ^Mix in half a pint of melted butter
one tablespoonful of hotel keeper's butter, Ko. 426; warm it and
Berve.

419. A White Sauce for hoiled Fowls, &c. &c. — If for two fdmU,
add to one pint of melted butter (No. 410) two yolks of raw eggs,
which mix well with a gill of cream, or milk, and when the melted
butter is near boiling mix in and stir very quick, do not let it b(nl;
add a little grated nutmeg and stir in a little more butter, season
with a little more white pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and poor
over your poultry. This is not an every day sauoe, but is exceedingly
nse^ to know.

A little chopped parsley, ham, or tongue sprinkled over the fowl
after the sauce is on, gives it a pleasing appearance.

Or parsley chopped fine, or capers, gherkins, mushrooms, or tongue
cut into cUce, or green peas, may be added to this sauce to dbange it.

420. A sharp Brovm Sauce for broiled Fowls and Meat. — ^Put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew pan with one of Chili
vinegar, one of common vinegar, one of colouring, three of water^

X SERIES OF SAUCES. 153

two of mxuhroom ketchups two of Harve/s sance, one of anchovy,
and a pint of melted butter, No. 2 ; let it simmer until it becomes
lather thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, add half a teaspoon-
M of sugar. This is excellent to almost all kinds of broiled meats^
and gives a nice relish to stews, fish, poultry, &c.

421. The same simjplified, — ^Put into a pan one tablespoonful of
diopped onion, three spoonfuls of vinegar, one of colouring, six of
-water, three of either Harvey's sauce, or ketchup, a little pepper and
salt, a pnt of melted butter, boil till thickish; serve for the same as
above.

422. Onion Sauce. — Peel and cut six onions m slices; put in a
stew pan, with two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of
«ugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a
pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown,
then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a
proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter;
jerve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not
passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion
jauce.

423. Caper Sauce, — ^Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter
&to a stew pan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling,
add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful ot capers; shake
the stew pan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a
little pepper and salt, and serve where directed*

424. Cream Sauce. — ^Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a
ttew pan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt,
a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter ;
place the stew pan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with
a wooden iipoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getthig
too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with
the eggs — (great care must be exercised, for if it should become too
hob the eggs would curdle, and render the sauce useless ;) then add
balf a pint of melted butter ; stir altogether over the fire, without
permitting it to Ixnl. This sauce may be served with any description
of b(nled fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables.

425. Mustard Sauce. — Put in a stew pan fi^ur tablespoonfuls ot
ehopped onions (No. 449), with half an otmce of butter, put on the
fire and stir till it gets rather hot, add half a teaspoonfhl of fiour,
mixed well, also half a pint of milk or broth (No. 1) ; let the
whole boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a
quarter that of pepper, a little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of
Trench or English mustard; when it boils it is ready.

1^ A SfiSnSd OP flAUCEfl.

4)251. Black Butt0r.^Tnt two ounces of salt btittdf in k tt6#
pan, set it on the fire; when it gets hot and brown add about
twenty parsley leares, half a teaspoonfal of salt, a quarter of that of
pepper, and two tablespoonfhls of vinegar, let the whole boil on«
minute and pour over any article suitable for this kind of sanoe*

4258. Curfy Saucc^^VeA and cut tWo middling nzed tMons
In slices, one apple cut in dice, and two ounces of baocn; pat tfaebi
into an iron stew pan, with one ounce of butter or &t, put on tin
fire, stir round for five or six minutes^ then add three teaspoonfuls d
fiour, one of curry powder, mixed well ; moisten with a pint of wSSk,
half a teaspoonfal of salt, and one of sugar; boil till rather thids^
and setve over any article suitable fi>r its use.

If passed through a sieve, put it back into the stew pan, tot it tx^
<>ne minute, and skim it, will be a very great imprdrenMcti. Cbttf
paste may be us^ Bfoth or water may be used.

425a A simpler Manner* — Apples and onions may both be me^
as also a pint of melted butter (No. 410). In this no floiir nead bi
used.

425e. Bread 8auee,^^Vut in a stew pan four tablespoonfdli of
bread crumbs^ fl quarter of one of salt, half that of pepper^ tan peeper
ooms, peel a small onion, cut in four, add a pint of milk» half aft
ounce of butter; boil for ten minutes^ when it ought to turn odl a
thickish sauce.

Important Ohservati(m»*^lt will be seen that in the above aalictl
there is hardly any but the three first which may not be made
with the produce of the cottage garden, or <^ those artides irlndi
are in daily use^ and if these direcfcions are followed, many a b<m
rivant in London would often envy the cookiog of the cottage, a* lb
would contain the freshness and aroma of fresh gathered vegeto^lei.

426. Jlofel Keeper^s Butter, — ^This is v^ simple and good, and
will keep potted for a long time. It is excellent with all broiled
meats.

Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter cf a
apoonful of salt, a quarter <Htto of pepper, two of chopped parsley
the juice of a middle sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar) | a IxU^
grated nutmeg may be added.

427. Anchovtf JButier, — ^To a quarl;er of a pound of butter, two
tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce.

A Muss 01* Uluho. ISS

ON SALADS.

What is more refresliiDg than salads when your appetite eeems to
Imve desertedi you, or even after a capacious (Hnuer — ^the mcCj fresli,
jpeeOf aiid cnsp iialad, fiill of life and healtli, wMch seems to invigo-
zftto tiie pAlUte and dispose the masticating powers to a much lotjge^
distaiiOn. The herhaceous plants which exist fit for fbod for man,
lire more numerous than may be imagined, and when we reflect holt
many of these, for want of knowledge, are allowed to rot and decom-
pose in the fields and gardens, we ought, without loss of time, to make
ourselves acquainted with their different natures and forms, and vary
our food as the season changes.

Although nature has provided all these different herbs and plants
u food for man at various periods of the year, and perhaps at one
period more abundant than another, when there are so many ready
to asnst in purifying and cleansing the blood, yet it would be
advisable to grow some at other seasons, in order that the health
inay be properly nourished.

However, at what period of the year or at what time, these may
be partaken of, the following dressing ia the one I should always
veoommend.

In my description of salads, I have advised and described the use
cf them as plainly dressed, such as they are in many parts of Europe,
tbat perhaps many of our readers will want to know how the sauce ii
Blade which is often used with the salad herbs, or such as the Italian
ioont used' to make some years since, by which he made a fortune in
^beising salads for the tables of the aristocracy. It is as follows :*^

PLAIN COSS SALAD.

428. Coss LeHuee.'^Ts^ two large lettuces, remore the faded
lessee and the coarse green ones, then cut the green top off, pull
each leaf off separate, cut it lengthways, and then in four or six
pieces; proceed thus until finished. This is better without
washing. Having cut it all up put it into a bowl ; sprinkle over
with yottr finger a small teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper,
three of oil, and two of English vinegar, or one of French ; with
the spoon and fork turn the salad lightly in the bowl till well
mixed ; the less it is handled the better ; a teaspoonful of chopped
chervil and one of tarragon is an immense improvement.

The abova seaioxuDg is tiioiigh for a quarter of a pound of
lettuce*

156 A SERIES OF SALADS.

429. Cahhage Lettu<ie. — ^Proceed the same as above, poll off
the oater leaves and throw them away, take off the others one \sf
one, and cut in two, put them in a pan with cold water, then
drain them in a cloth, by shaking it to and fro violently mill
one hand, and extract all the water, put them into a bowl^ and
season and dress as above.

To vary them, two hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, xoay be
added ; a little eschalot, a few chives, or young onions.

To improve the appearance of these saJads, when on the tabUi,
before being used, the flower of the najsturtium may be inter-
mixed with taste and care, with a little cut beetroot and slices of
radish. These are refreshing to the sight on a table or side-
board at dinner ; slices of cucimiber may be also introduced.

430. Endive. — This ought to be nicely blanched and erisp,
and is the most wholesome of all salads. Take two, cut away
the root, remove the dark green leaves, and pick off all the rest,
wash and drain well, dress as before ; a few chives is an improve-
ment.

431. French Fashion, — ^Put in one clove of garlic, or rub a
piece of crust of bread slightly with it, or the salad-bowl, mix
the salad in the bowl as before; if rubbed slightly on the bread
mix it with it. If properly contrived, it gives a flavour, which
no one can detect. Tarragon or chervil may be used in these
f^lads.

432. Marsh Mallow.-^-ThQ roots of these should be removed,
as likewise the faded leaves ; dress as for lettuce No. 428 ; eggd
and beetroot may be introduced in this, being almost a winter
salad.

Dandelion, or dent-de-lion, should not remain long in water*
as they will get too bitter ; dress them as endive.
Cow salad the same way.
Watercresses the same, with a little cucumber and celery.

433. Mtistard and Cress, — ^These, if eaten alone, make aa
excellent salad ; they should be quickly washed and used, dressed
as lettuce. A little tarragon or chervil, or a few chives, may be
used.

434. Salad Sauce, — Boil one egg hard, when cold remove the
yolk, put it into a hasin, hruise it to a pulp With a spoon,— do not
use iron, prefer wood, — then add a raw yolk and a teaspoonftil of

A SERIES OP SALADS^ 157

iBOTi A small ieaspoonfal of salt, a quarter of pepper, then add half a
noanful of Tinegar ; stir it round, pour over a tablespoonful of oil by
degreeSy keep stirring, then a little more vinegar, two more of oil,
mtil eight teaspoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar are used; season
with half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, two of parsley, half of
tarragon and chervil, a pinch of cayenne and six teaspoonfuls of melted
hotter cold. The white of the egg may he chopped up and added.
it will keep for some time if properly corked, and may be used in
proportion with any of the above salads ; but still I must say I prefer
Um simplicity and skill of the Italian count's in preference to this,
attbough this is very palatable. A gill of whipped cream is good in it.

436. Vegetable for Salads, — Beetroot, onions, potatoes,
celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, succory, or barbe-de-capucin,
winter cress, bumet, tansey, marigold, peas, ^French beans,
radish, cauliflower ; all the above may be used judiciously in salad,
if properly seasoned, according to the following directions : —

435a. JEaricoi and Lentil Salad. — To a pint of well-boiled
haricots, add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, one of
chopped onions, two of vinegar, four of oil, two of chopped
parsley, stir round, and it is ready ; lentils are done the same.
A little cold meat, cut in thin slices, may be added as a variety.

436. Beetroot Salad with Onions, — ^Boil four onions in the
•kin till tender, also a piece of beetroot ; let both get cold ;
remove the skin, cut them in slices, put them in a plate, one slice
on the edge of the other alternately ; put into a small basin half
a. teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, one of good vinegar,
three of oil, mix them well j pour over when ready to serve.

Celery f Young Onions, and JRadishes may be used in salad
with the above cbessing, adding a teaspoonful of mustard.

Cucumbers, — Cut in thin slices on a plate, with salt, pepper,
dl, and vinegar in proportion to the above directions.

Oreen French Beans. — ^When cold put into a bowl, with som«
tarragon, chervil, and chopped chives, dressed as before.

Brussels Sprouts, the same way.

437. Potatoes. — If any remaining, cut them into thin slices,
and season as before. A few haricots, or cold meat, or a
chopped gherkin, may be added.

158 ▲ BBBISS OV 8iIiiP9i

438. Meca and Poultry. -^Jf tWe are any of tjifi^iboy^ "ktlk
and yon require a relishing dish, and not hav^g mj IrefOi
salad herbs, proceed as for ihe other salads, using a little chr^pprf
parsley, onions, or pickles. Some cucomber or oeleiy may be
used. The meat or poultry should be cut small.

439. Fish Salad.-^A, very nice and elegant diah may be
made with all kinds of cold fish, and some kinds of shell-fish;
but the following way of dressing is for a small Lobster Salad,
and will do for all fish salads : Have the bowl half filled wii)i
any kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, Aa.
Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract t)i6 mesfi ^
one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small a&fSBf
about a quarter of an inch thick, arrange these tagtefijly 04
the saUd, take out all the soft part &om the belly, mix it ia a
bason with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, ibur of vintttf 1
four of oil; stir it well together, and pour on the salad; then
cover it with two hard eggs, cut in slices, a few slices of enoom-
ber, and, to vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy; stir
lightly, and serve, or use salad sauce, ^0. 434.

K for a dinner, ornament it with some flowers oi the nat?
turtium and marigold.

440. Crab Salad, — ^The same as the lobster,

B 3mains of cold cod, fried soles, halibut, brill, turbot, stur-
geon cut as lobster, plaice, &c., may be used in the same way-

Ma ch^be Eloise, — In the foregoing receipts you will perceive
that I have used each sakid herb separate, only mixing them with
the condiments or with vegetable firait. I have a strong objedaon
to the ahnost diabolical mixture of tour or five different sorts of
salad in one bowl, and then chopping them as fine as possible; the
fi^hness as well as the flavour of eadi is destroyed; they agree
about as well together as would brandy and soda water nuxed witi)
gin and gingerbeer, for each salad herb has its own particular flavour,
and the condiments, which are onions, chives, parsley, chervil, tSfia-
gon, celery, eschalot, garlic, cucumber, beetroot, &c. kc. are only to
give it piquancy like the oil and vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Mustard and cress and water cresses may be considered as a slight
condiment, but should be used accordingly. It is remarkable that
though the inhabitants of this country were for so many centuries
(from the nature of the climate) a salad-eating people, yet they se^
the least to know how to season thein. Until the int^uctiou of

BELISHM 159

i3i6 potato^ in 1660, and wbieh wfts first eaten as a sweetmeat, stewed
in nek wine imd sugar, the various salads were in oommon use on
itfb tables in Britain, of which country most of the, plants are
indigenoQS*

RELISHES.

441. Serring in TFliwifcy.-- Well wast and dean a red
lierring, wipe it dry and place it in a pie-dish, having cut off
the head, and split it in two up the back ; put a gill or two of
wbisky over the lierring, according to size, hold it on one side
of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it alighti
and when it goes out the fish is done.

ibi2. Devilled Bones.-^Tsike the bones of any remaining
joint or poultiy, which has still some meat on, which cut across
idighlly, and then make a mixture of mustard, ^alt, cayenne, and
pepper, and one teaspoonM of mushroom ketchup to two of
mnstard ; rub the bones well with this, and broil rather brownish*

MUSHROOMS, OB THE PEABL OF THE FIELDS.

I HSBE send you, Eloise, a most sumptuous relish. There is one
cUsh which the Devonshire cottager can procure and enjoy better
than even the most wealthy person. It is the mushroom. After
having plucked them, perhaps on the road home for his breakfast,
broiled them over a nice bright fire, seasoned with a little pepper and
salt, and a small bit of butter placed inside of them ; the flavour is
then pure and the aroma beautiful, but by accident I discovered a new
and excellent way to cook them. Being in Devonsliire, at the end of
September, and walking across the fields before breakfast to ^ small
fknnhouse, I found three very fine mushrooms, which I thought
would be a treat, but on arriving at the house I found it had no
oven, a bad gricUron, and a smoky coal fire. Necessity, they say.
Is the mother of Invention, I immediately applied to our grand and
nniversal mamma, how I should dress my precious mushrooms, when
a j^tle whisper came to my ear, and the following was the result.

443. I first cut two good slices of bread, half an inch thick, large
enough to cover the bottom of a plate, toasted them, and spread
some Devonshire cream over the toast. I removed aU the earthy
part from the mushroom, and laid them gently on the toast, head
downwards, slightly sprinkled them with salt and pepper, and placed
' in each a little of the clotted cream ; I then put a tumbler over each
and placed them on a stand before the fire, and kept turning them so
as to prevent the glass breakings and in ten to fifteen minutes Uxe glass

160 BELI6HES..

was filled with vapour, which is the essence of the mushroom ; when ifc
is taken up, do not remove the glass for a few minutes, by wMch
time the vapour will have become condensed and gone into the bread,
but when it is, the aroma is so powerful as to pervade the whole
apartment.

The sight, when the glass is removed, is most inviting, its whiteness
rivals the everlasting snows of Mont Blanc, and the taste is worthy oE
IJucullus. Vitellius would never have dined without it ; Apicius would
never have gone to Greece to seek for crawfish; and had be only
half the fortune lefb when he committed suicide, he would have pre-
ferred to have left proud Some and retire to some villa or cottage to
enjoy such an enticing dish.

Therefore, modem gourmets, never fancy that you have tasted
mushrooms until you have tried this simple and new discovery.
Remember the month — the end of September or the beginning of
October.

As Devonshire cream is not to be obtained everywhere, use butter,
or boil some milk till reduced to cream, with a little salt, pepper,
and one clove ; when warm put in an ounce of butter, mixed with a
little flour, stir round, put the mushroom on the toast with this sauce,
cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. In this
way all kinds of mushrooms will be excellent. They may be put into
baking pans : cover with a tumbler as above, and bake in oven.

444. Welsh Rahhit — ^Toast a round of bread from a quartern
loaf; put about four ounces of cheese into a small saucepan or
pipkin with a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt^
and a wineglass of ale ; break the cheese small, set it on the fire,
and stir until it is melted, when pour over the toast, and serve
quickly.

2nd. — Toast a round of bread, and place on it two pieces of
cheese, single Gloucester, a quarter of an inch thick ; place it
before the fire, and as the cheese melts, spread it over the bread
with a knife, also a little cayenne and mustard.

Zrd. — Take a penny French roll, cut off a thin slice from one
end, and take oat some of the crumb and place it in the oven. Melt
the cheese as above, and pour it into the roll. It is very
good for a journey, or a sportsman, and can be eaten cold.

4ith, or Irish Rahhit. — Toast a round of bread; chop up four
ounces of cheese, a small piece of butter, one gherkin, some
mustard, pepper, and salt, until it is quite a paste ; spread it

CULINARY MISCELLANEOra. 161

over the toast, and plaoe them in tho oven for five minutes, and
lervo hot.

^iS^^-^Mussels may be eaten plain. Put a quart of them
in a pan, after being well washed, with some onions cut in
slices, also a little parsley ; put them on a sharp fire for ten
minutes, when they will all open; then remove the board
and black part, and eat them plain with some of their juice.

416. Oysters on Toast. — Open twelve very large oysters, put
them in a pan with their liquor, a quarter of a teaspoonful of
pepper, a wineglass of milk, two cloves, and a small piece of
mace, if handy \ boil a few minutes until set, mix one ounce of
butter with half an ounce of flour, put it, in small pieces, in
the pan, stir round ; when near boiling pour over the toast, and
serve. A little sugar and the juice of a lemon, is a great
improvement.

447. Oysters, plain *ca^?opcf?.— Butter and bread crumb the
scallop shell, put in six oysters, season, and bread crumb, then
six more, season again, and broad crumb; if a large shell, six more,
with a little cayenne and butter, and some of their liquor; cover
thick with bread crumbs, put in oven, or on gridiron, for thirty
minutes ; brown with salamander, or on a shovel, and serve.

These may also be done in patty pans.
Pieces of the liver of the cod, put into boiling water and set«
may be added to any of the above escalops.

448. iSSffa^Zo^^. <— Lobsters, crabs, and cra3rfish must be first
boiled, the flesh removed from the shell, and minced, adding a
little chopped onion, popped, salt, and butter, the scallop shell
well greased, the flesh of the fish laid in, well bread crumbed, and
pat in the oven or on the gridiron for thirty minutes, and serve.

These require a little more pepper or cayenne than other fish,
and a little Chili vinegar may be added. Two spoonfuls of
melted butter mixed with the flesh of a lobster makes it very
delicions.

449. How to chop Onions.'^'Fevr persons know how to chop
onions properly. In the first place, all tho dry skin must be
removed, then a thin slice off the top and bottom, or they will
be bitter, then cut them into thin slices, dividing the onion, and

9(

163 CtJLIKART MISCELLAKEOtrS.

cnt crossways to form dice. If a very slight flaronr is required,
and the onion is strong, like in the north of England, for it
must be remembered that the fm^her north you go, the
stronger the flavour of the root, and if French receipt books
are exactly copied, it is no wonder that complaints ore made of
the preponderance of the flavour of the onion ; in which case,
When chopped, put them in the comer of a napkin or doth,
wash them in water, squeeze them dry, then put them hatk. on
the board, and chop finer ; or sometimes only rubbing tiie pan
or the meat with the onion is quite sufficient.

450. Larding. — The word larding has very often occmred ifi
onr receipts ; it may be thought to belong to a style of oooke^'
too good for the cottage. On the contrary, it is an eoonomica*
process, and will make lean meat go much farther than with*
ont it.

Get what is called a larding needle, that is, a piece of sted
from six to nine inches long, pointed at one end, and having
four slits at the other, which will hold a small strip of baeon
when put. between them. They will perhaps cost tenpence.
Cut the pieces of bacon two or tiiree iuches long and a quarts
to half an inch square, put each one after the other in the pin,
insert it in the meat, and leave only half an inch out; eight
pieces to each pound.

451. Bunch qf Sweet Herbs, — In many of the receipts is
mentioned a bunch of sweet herbs^ which consists, for some
stews and soups, of a small bunch of parsley, two sprigs of
thyme, and one bayleaf j if no parsley, four sprigs of winter
savory, six of thyme, and one bayleaf.

452. Bread Ct^^J*.-— Take a piece of the crumb of stale
bread not too hard, bruise it with your hanil, then pass it
through a coarse sieve or cullender, or in cloth; use where
required.

453. Browning for Sauces, — Put half a pound of biown
sugar into* an iron saucepan, and melt it over a moderate fire
for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it continually, until quite
black, but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat
will make it bitter, then add two quarts of water, and in ten
minates the sugar will be dissplyecl* Bottle for use.

OtTLmABY UISCELLAKEOTTS. 163

Obt&urei TFd^«r.**-Pat in a basin a pint of wat«r and two
teaspoonfols of tiie above sngar browning; mix well; use whero
indicated, eithet for stews, gravies, or sauces.

454. Pease Pudding. — Put a pint of split peas into a clotb,
•leiife room for tbcir swelling, boil in a gallon of soft water; if
good, tbey will take an hour, but leave them till tender ; pass
tiiem through a sieve or cullender, then add a teaspoonful of
salt, half of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two eggs, whioh^
if scarce, can be omitted ; beat up, tie again in cloth, boil lor
on© hour, and serve with boiled pork. Or when plain boiled,
a&d the peas are done, open the cloth, season, mix well^ butter
a basm, shape in, and serve.

466. Soto to Boil Sicc^-^Txit one quart of water in a pot|
boil it, wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into the boiling
water ; boil for ten minutes, or until each grain is rather soft,
but separate ; drain it in a colander, put it back in a pot which
you have slightly greased with butter, let it swell slowly near
tiie fire, or in the oven, until wanted. A little butter may be
added; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated.

456. Veal Stuffing. — Chop half a pound of suet, put it in a
basin with three quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, a little thyme, or lemon
peel chopped, three whole eggs, mix well, and use where
directed. A pound of bread crumbs and one more e^^ may be
used : it will make it cut firmer.

457. Liver Stuffing, — To the above quantity of stuffing,
chop fine four ounces of the liver of either calf, pig, sheep, or
lamb, poultry, gr game ; mix well and use, adding a little more
seasoning.

These stuffings are varied by the mixture of a little cooked
ham, anchovies, olives, capers, pickles, or even red herring. In
fact,. a variety of ways, according to fancy, for any dish you
please.

458. Biscuit Ballsr^Vxii in a basin half a pound of suet,
tiiree teaspoonfuls of onions chopped fine, one of parsley, half
of salt, quarter of pepper, ten tablespooniuls of biscuit powder,
two passover biscuits soaked in milk or water a few hours befiirt

M 2

16i CUUNABY MISCELLANEOtJS.

using; two eggs to be added. These are excellent in any thick
soups or ragouts, and stews of all sorts : make them in balls the
size of a walnut, stew with meat^ or boil gently twenty minute%
and use where liked.

459. Cod Inver Stuffing. '^'Half a pound of raw chopped
liver, three quarters of a pound of bread crumb or biscuit powdBE»
salt, pepper, and parsley ; mix with two whole eggs. Use js
stuffing for any kind of fish.

460. Cod Idver Balls. — One pound of liver chopped fiic^
put into a basin with a pound of fine bread crumbs, two tear
spoonfuls of chopped onions, two of parsley, two of salt, hall one
of pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, three eggs ; mix all weH
make into balls, roll them in flour, use them with any kind of
stewed fish ; they will take about thirty minutes to cook slowly*

461. Toad'tn-the'Sole JBatter.'^-'Put into a pan six table*
spoonfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, half of
pepper ; mix well with a pint of milk ; mix very smooth, and
use where directed. More milk may be used if liked.

A little nutmeg may be used in it. This is as good as pan-
cake batter.

462. A Common Batter. — Put in a basin six good tabk*
Bpoonfiils of flour, which dilute very slowly with one pint of
milk, add one spoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, beat m
egg well in it, if used for a toad-in-the-hole. A little parskjf^
chopped onions, or a little spice, makes an agreeable change ; it
will also make nice puddings, if baked alone, or under a joint in
a well-greased tin.

A Commoner Sort. — ^For toad-in-the-hole use water, if f09,
have no milk or eggs handy; a little suet, or fat chopped finejis
an improvement.

463. Sow to Boil and Dress Macaroni. — Put in an iron
pot or stew-pan two quarts of water ; let it boil ; add two tea-
spoonfuls of salt, one ounce of butter ; then add one pound of
macaroni, boil till tender ; let it be rather firm to the tooch ; ^
is then ready for use, either for soup, pudding, or to be dressed
with cheese. Drain it in a cullender ; put it back in the paoi

CULINAltY MISCELLANEOUS. 16ff

add four onnees of cheese or more, a little butter, salt, and
pepper ; toss it well together and serve. It will be found light
and nutritious, and well worthy the notice of vegetarians.

464. How to Toast Bread. — Procure a nice square loaf that
lias been baked one or two days previously, then with a sharp
knife out off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices as
you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Contrive
to have a clear fire : place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-
fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute
before the fire, then turn it, hold it another minute, by which
tame the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move
it g^raduaUy to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a
yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the other
nde in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot plate, have
•ome fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as press-
ing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece,
rather less than an ounce, over, and cut the toast into four or
six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous
family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the
whole. Tou will then have toast made to perfection.

464a. Jam of all hinds, — ^Almost all small faimers and cot-
tagers have generally some kind of fruit to spare at the end of
the season, any of which can be made into jam. Thus, for
strawberry jam, pick one pound of strawberries, put them in a
pan with three quarters of a pound of white powdered sugar;
p«t the whole on the fire, stir with a wooden spoon, and boil till
nther thick ; or try a little on a plate, if it sets. When cold,
fill your preserve jars, cover over with strong white paper, and
let them remain in a rather cold place.

Baspberries and green gooseberries will require a little more
Mling, and more sugar. Cranberries, mulberries, cherries, and
eorrants, can all be done the same way.

464b. Currant tT^Z/y.— Put in a pan half a sieve of fresh
gathered currants, with the stalks ; add to it a gill of water/ put
on the fire, and boil till every currant has opened ; then pass the
juice through a sieve or cullender, and to every quart put one

Cund of white sugar ; boil fast and skim, and when the preserve
gins to stick to the spoon, and is quite clear, fill your preserve
jots, and cover over when cold; but, to be sure, try some on •

166 nunrs on tca^ coffeSi eto.

plate before potting. If it sets well it is done ; a few raspbemei
added is an improvement.

PICKLES.

465. JSed Cabbage. — I perceive in most cottages the gaxden
possesses a few of these exceedingly useful productions ; at soiiie
seasons they grow larger than others, when they should be
pickled thus : — Cut them into thin slices, remove the hard stalki
lay them on a slab, cover with salt for twelve hours, tnraixig
them now and then, clean oS all the salt, and place {hem in
stone jars ; boil some vinegar, and to every quart add one ounce
of black pepper, and seven button onions, or two large ones
sliced, boil for five minutes, and pour over cabbage ; cover tbe
lar, and let it remain three weeks before using.

Onions may be omitted, and only cold vinegar used, btit I do
not approve of it, being hard and indigestible. A bimch of
^weet herbs boiled in the vinegar is an improvement.

I send you no other receipts, as mixed pickles can now be
bought cheaper than they can be made at home.

A FEW ORIGINAL HINTS ON COFFEE, TEA, &o.

466. Simplified Mode of Making Coffee, — Pat one oonoe Of
ground coffee in a pan, which place over the fire; keep stiniog
it until quite hot, but take care it does not bum; then poor orer
quickly a quart of boiling water, close it immediately, keep it ootflff
fhnn the fire, but not to simmer; then fill your cup without ahaikiiig
It; or pass it through a doth into a coffee pot, or it may be siaiit
some time previous, and warmed again. The groimds can be ]m||(%
and boiled for making the oofibe of the next ^y, by which at kipi
a quarter of an ounce is saved. In country places, where milk is
good and cheap, I recommend that half boiled milk should be i|sed
with the coffee. The idea of wanmng coffee is my own* and the
economy is fiiU ten per cent.

The foUowing is the result of some of my experiments with tins
qrstem. But I must first tell you that my exertions in the ^wfaicm-
flA>le quarter of St. Giles's gave great satisfaction to my s^tuagenaxita
pupil, whom I taught to cook the ox cheek, and she and several of Iter
neighbours clubbed together to give a fashionable *' Ua** whidi of
course my vanity made me immediately accept. Having but Httle
confidence in what they would provide, I bought a quarter of a
pound of ground cof^, intending giving them a lesson how to make
coffee. On. my arrival, I was received like a princess in a fidiy land.*!

HINTS OK TBk, 009FEE, EXa 167

the little parlour was not only deani bnt ornamented, at the cost of
a ftw pence, with wall flowers from the neij^ hhourmg garden (the
best in the world, Covent Garden), generously dispensing their per-
fome over pyramids of muffins and crumpets. Having cordially
•haken hands with my host, I set oheeiifully to work, and got
Md of an old pitcher, but dean; in it I put the coffee, and
likoed it dose before the fire, begging the old lady to keep
toriung it round, and stirring it till the powder was hot I then
poored three quarts of boiling water, allowed it to stand fbr ten
niinutes, and then poured it out into the oups, with the best milk that
tfonld be got, and sugar. The coffee being partaken of, I put into
«aoh cup a good teaspoonful of oaidster oocoa, with half a teaspoonM
€f sugar, holding the kettle in one hand and a spoon in the other. I
poured on the water, and kept stirring all the time, adding a little
nulk. In the meantime I had put one ounce of tea into a large
teapot, which I had placed by the side of the fire, in order that
the l^ves should g^t hot, so that when the water was poured on
tihepi, that they i^oi4d immediately give forth their aroma. By
the time the cocoa had been partaken of, the tea was ready, and
St was declared by all the old dames present that they never had had
fooh a cup ot tea, although they bought it at the same shop,
snd paid the same price-; and they could not account for such
* legerdemain,'^ but would endeavour to imitate it. I was greatly
-thanked on my departure, and received the compliment of an old
jhoe bdng thrown after me; not a French dancing shoe, but f\
genuine British bit of solid work, the sole having a very uneven
Appearance, being studded with several dozen of iron nails.

Thus terminated the entertainment g^ven to me by these poor but
^pateful people of the black back street of St. Giles's.

I made the cocoa thus, not having sufficient utensils ; bnt I hare
fbqod it an economical plan to make the ground cocoa hot, adding a
little water, and mixing it smooth with either cold milk or water, it
vivos it a richness whidb is not got by the usual system. Place it on
tiie fire, keep stirring, and when just on the point of boiling, serve.
Chocolate can be made the same way^ only stirring it more, with a
tpoon, ii you have no chocolate pot.

In the way of coffee, in my opinion, nothing can be more pure
than what I bought the other day from the canister, when walking
hj diance in the Borough, at the shop of Messrs. White and Fair-
ehild ; and I must, while on this subject, be allowed to state that, in
|ny opinion, a good cup of coffee cannot be made without the intro-
duction of a little chicory, although I am aware that some dealers
imposed on the public by selling an article composed of chicory at
A cofTce price. I cannot but admire Messrs. White's plan, which is
on no account to sell any ground coffee mixed with chicory, but to sdl
H to their customers the one separate trom the other. They then

168 BEVERAGES.

recommended to me some canister coffee, patented and prepared onlj
by them. On opcniog the canister the Aroma was very re&eshing.
On asking how it was roasted (rather a bold question on my part,
I admit), he very civilly asked me to follow him to the back of the
premises, where some very extensive rooms are fitted up for the pnzpose
of roasting ; he then put some coffee-berries into a cylinder ux feet
in length and twenty inches in circumference; then put them in a
furnace which roasted the berries in a most scien&fic manner, bdng
turned during the while by the aid of steam power. When soiR-
ciently roasted, the coffee was, while hot, put in a steam null and
grouxid, being forced from the mill into the canisters and sealed
up as soon as possible, and put into stock. I beg to forward you one <i
the four quarter of a pound packets I bought. On. testing it I
fomid that an ounce made one quart of excellent coffee.

BEVERAGES.

As &r as the food of man goes, I believe, dearest, that our dnty is
almost at an end; but here is one important item which snpporti
the vitality of man as much as food does, I mean beverages ; in ftct^
one is inseparable from the other : to drink without eating, or to eat
without drinking, would soon send us to an early grave. Tme, if too
much is taken of one or the other, it upsets the digestive organs, and
materially affects the functions of that most important part of tlie
human frame, the stomach, which, acting in accordance with tiM
wonderful works of nature, refuses any food or drink that does not
accord with its fonctions. True, bad food and beverages of all kinds
are sometimes forced on it ; but then, if it does not disturb its fimcticn8
immediately, it acts on it gradually, and in course of time entirelj
destroys its coating or toilette. Is it not, then, important, that greet
care should be taken in what we eat or drink ? The best of food is often
spoilt by drinking bad beverages. Amongst the higher orders of
society, the pride of an " epicure" is to select the best of wines^ whiicb
he considers one of his greatest treasures, scientifically <^lfli»giwg them
to the various courses of his dinner.

You probably will again remark, that I am deviating trom. tlie
purport of our present little work, by alluding to the higher dass ef
living in its pages, while in realily it is intexided fi}r the million^ and
not for the wealthy few. My excuse is, that if a rich gourmet take
so much care in selecting his beverages, why should not a poor hoose-
wife be as particular in choosing her more humble drinks P Is it not
more desirable for the artizan, who cannot afford to drink mnchbeer^
to have with his meal a sound clear glass of pure water, fall of health
and life, than to have a muddy one ? For I have actually seen pe<^Ie
drixik the drainings ad they drip from the roof of a house — the simple

BEVEBAGEd. 169

idea of letting it rest for a minute never entering their heads ; or better
•till, to clarify it by passing it through a clean cloth, or giving it a boil,
fliid letting it get cold before drinking, for any doubtful water will
frnprore and get soft by boiling.

- JiVxr those in middling circumstances, who can afford their malt
Bquor at their meals, pale ale, or light table-beer, or ale, is preferable
t0 any heavy stoat, as they facilitate digestion.

Since my return from France, there is nothing I miss so much as
that light and cooling drink called by our allies '* Vin ordinaire,"
tiboagh I was in hopes that after the great exertions made by several
members of parliament, a reduction of the duty on these simple but
generous wines would take place, though probably they would not
te partaken of to any great extent by the masses, who would not
imderstand their properties, although there is not one Englishman out
of twenty who visits Franco, but who in time takes a liking to these
reaUy harmless wines.

I do not want to deprive you of your sherry or port before or after
dinner; however, recollect that nothing assists digestion and refreshes
the palate more than a good glass of light wine; and therefore iA
would be a great boon to the public if they could be imported free of
dnty.

To our friend Dr. King I am much indebted, after having had a
conversation on the above subject, for his sending to me the other
day a case of pure French wine, having, as he stated in his letter,
1)e6n present while it was drawn from the rough French cask.
I was more astonished when he informed me that its price was only
twenty-eight shillings per dozen, and was purchased from the famous
boose of Campbell, of Regent Street, London. It appears that this
gtentleman pays an annual visit to the different vintages and villages
which encompass the banks of the Garonne, and purchases largely
fi<pm the peasantry, remaining there all the brewing season, and per-
tonally superintending its make. The principal wines are called
** La Rose," "St. Julien," " Vin de Grave," " Sauteme," " Barsac,"
and numerous other kinds, all of which are highly recommended
bj the &culty. Light Amontillado, Rhenish wine, and Bucellos, are
tiso conmiendable at meal-times.

Eor those who cannot afford to buy malt liquors or wines, I have
been led to try the following receipts, which wUl be found extremely
vseAil for people in small circumstances.

170 CHEAP BBINKS.

A SERIES OP NEW AND CHEAP DRINKS.

467. Pat a gallon of water on to boil, oat np one pound of applet^
each one into quarters, put them in the water, and hoal them untU
they can be pulped, pass the liquor through a eollender, boil it t^
again with half a pound of brown sugar, scam; and bottle lor awe,
taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place x tiM
apples may be eaten with sugar.

Another way, — Bake the apples first, then put them in a gallon paii«
add the sugar, and pour boiling water oyer, let it get cold, pass the
liquor as above, and bottle.

468. Apple Toatlt and WoUt^-^Il xneoe of bread* slowliy toagt^
till it gets quite black, and added to the above;, ma^^ % very nice tmd
refreshing drink &>r invalids.

469. Apple Barley Water, — ^A quarter of a pound of pearl huAef
instead of toast added to the above, and boil ibr one hour, is also a
very nice drink.

470. Apple Sice TFo/er.— «-Half a ponnd of rice, boiled In the al)0V8
xmtil in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold.

All kinds of fruits may be done the same way.
Pigs and French plums are excellent ; also raisins.
A little ginger, if approved of^ may be used.

471. For Spring Drink, — ^Rhubarb, in the same qnantities, unci
done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar^ is very co<^^ng• '

Also green gooseberries.

471a. Lemonade, — Cut in very thin slices three lemony, pot them
In a basin, add half ^ pound of sugar, either white or brown; brpiM
altogether, add a gallon of water, and stir welL It is then ready.

472. For Summer Drink. — One pound of red currantsi, braised with
some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold
water, well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottled.

473. Mulberry. — ^The same, addmg a little lemon-peeL

A little cream of tartar or dtric acid added to these renders then
more cooling in summer and spring.

ON MARKETING.

Mt deab Peibot),— In most cookery books, which are supposed to
t>e written for the middle classes of socle' y, we find at the beginning,
and in large type, directions how to market and choose the best joints
of meat, poultry, fish, but rarely vegetables, how all the best
qualities of each should be known, but nothing is said about the
second and third qualities, which two-thirds of the people of Enghmd
Dpnsome; also directions forjudging of the finest haunch of mutton^ or

CK KAAKETIKO. 171

^l6hi of beef; but never of the neck or scrag of mutton^ or the skirfc
of beef, or sheep's head, liver, Ac.

If the directions of those works were strictly followed, one-third of
KIm people would be starving, and a population of dogs (as in Turkey)
would have to be kept to eat up the supposed offU. At the present
SKKnent oar soldiers, as well as those of our allies, the French, are
feeding excellently off that which is thrown away by the Turks, the
head, feet, &o. &c,, of the animal, which is by them declared unclean.
finch ought never to be the case in a Christian country, for we may bo
^uite certain that, unless the animal is diseased, all those parts which
0An be digested is good food for man ; but, there may be some who,
from over-indulgence in luxuries, have so brought the stomach into
tiiat state, that there are but certain parts of the animal of which
they can partake; these persons must, of course, pay higher prices
lor that kind of meat, and leave the other parts cheaper for those
liaving healthy and good digestions to feed on. It is, therefore, our
doty hare to teach the labourer's and oottager'f wife how to buy it
cheap, sweet, wholesome, and nutritious.

ilf»^o».-— The first quality of mutton ought to be between four
or five years old j but at present it is rarely got above three, and often
^nder two years. The flesh ought to be a darkish, dear, red colour,
the Iht firm and white, the meat short and tender when pinched*
and ought not to be too fat.

Second quality. — ^The fat is rather spongy, the lean close and
irough grained, and a deep red, and the fat adheres firmly to the meat*

Third quality. — This is, perhaps, a sheep which has had some disease
and recovered; the liver would always show this, but as butchers
generally remove it, and do not let it be seen, yon cannot judge from it.
The flesh will be paler, the fat a ^nt white, and the flesh loose from
the bone ; if very bad and diseased the fat will be yellow, and the lean
ftibby and mcnst. To ascertain if it is fresh proceed aa for pork.

Zamb should be firar or five months old, and ought to weigh from
thirty to forty pounds ; the fat ought to be white and light in appear-
ance, the flesh a fkmtish white, smooth, and firm to the touch.

The second quality is not so well covered with flit, the fiesh rather
^ed, the meat softer, and every joint presents a coarser appearance.

The t]iird quality is fiabby, lean, and red, the fat rather yellow,
and will keep sweet but a short time.

To ascertain if fresh, place the finger between the Idn and kidney,
and, if moist, or tainted, will be easily ascertained by the smell.

JBeef. ~^MoBt towns and counties in the United Kingdom differ in
the kind of cattle brought to market. It is not our duty here to
mention the breed whi(^ w« think the best, and on which so many
difiisent qphikms axifltj bat tha quality of meat depends upon the

172 ON MAREjrriKa

feeding. The best quality of beef will have an open grain, bright
red colour, the fat white, and the bark smooth. Some of the best
qualities will have the fat yellow, from being fed on (nl-cake ; and,
unless it has afterwards been fed on turnips, will be wasteM ik
cooking, although the meat may be tender and rich.

The second qoality will be close-grained and rather flabby, paler itt
colour, and the fat a dead white and the bark rough.

The third quality, the grain is very close, no streaks of fat between
the grain, and of deep brickdust red, tough under the finger, the
fat hard and skinny. To ascertain the age, look at the bone or horn
which runs through the ribs of beef; if a fine four-year old hei^,
this horn or bone will be soft or tender, and becomes harder the older
the ox. But the best plan to judge of the fiavour of the meat belbire
you do it by eating it, is to look at the tongue of the bullock, and if
it is plump and has a clean bright appearance, with the fat at the end
of a pinkish white, then the meat will turn out good; but if the tongne
abould look dark, the fat a dead white, then that meat will eat hard
and flavourless. The same holds good with sheep.

Veal, — ^There is more difficulty in the choice of veal than any other
meat, although the general opinion is, it is the easiest. I often hear
how white it is, how plump it looks: these are often produced
artificially.

The preference is usually given to the cow calf, from its being
whiter and having the udder; but if a bull calf has been properly fe^
and killed at about ten weeks old, nothing can be finer in flavour or
closer in grain when cooked, and will be much more juicy than the
cow calf. The grain should be close, firm, and white, the &t a
pinkish white, not a dead white, and the kidneys well covered with
thick white fat; that is the first class veaL The second quality ia
darker in fiesh, may be slaughtered in the country, and equally aa
nourislung as the first; the third quality will have less fat round the
kidney, be coarser grained, and the lean red. It is often more
nourishing than the very white veal, but not so delicate or digestible^
It is caused by the calf being reared in the open air.

If the suet under the kidney is soft and clammy the meat la not
fresh.

The neck is the first joint that becomes tinted. Calves' liver
should be firm, and free fix)m gristle or spots; the heart should be.
surrounded with fat.

When veal has to be kept, it should always be hung up, and never
allowed to lay on anything, or it soon becomes tainted.

JPo9'^. — ^The quality of tins entirely depends on the feeding. A friend
of mine made various experiments, and more particularly on the same
litter of pigs, and the various cozes and different flavour of the meat

OK MABKETIKa 173

was extraordinary. There is one thing very certain, that whafcever
a pig is fdd upon, it will be much better in size and quality if kept
dean and well washed at least once a week. Those breeds that
produce a fine close-grained meat, not too much fat, and that firm,
solid, and pinkish white, are the best; if the tongue is dean and full,
the animal is well fed and healthy.

The second quality of pork may be very good, but the flesh will
he hard and red, and the fat a yellow white.

The third quality, the meat will be coarse-grained, the fat sofb,
and the tongue and kidneys discoloured. Measly pork may be known
by the little kernels in the fat: it is not allowed to be sold by the
butchers, and yet, in many large towns in England, it is openly
exposed for sale.

If the flesh is clammy and moist, it is not fresh. The best plan to
tell the freshness of this, or any meat, is to take with you, in hot
weather, to market two wooden skewers, and insert them in the flesh
near the bone, and remove them, and the nose will detect it imme-
diately; this is much better than touching the meat. These skewers
should be scraped after being used.

Slicking Figs, — The skin should be clear and fresh, the tongue
elean, the flesh of a pinkish hue, and not too large in size.

JPoultry, — ^The means of telling the various qualities of poultry are
well known : the age is known by the spur, and the quality by the skin.
There is, perhaps, no poultry in the world that comes up to the well-
led Dorking capon. The new breed of Cochin China fowls, of which
the best tor eating is the grey kind, if fed and treated in the same
way as the Dorking capons, might produce a larger fowl, but it is
questionable if so tender.

White legged fowls are generally preferred, but there are black
ones equally as good. In country places, where chickens are some-
times required to be killed in the morning for that day's dinner, it
is best to give each, shortly before killing it, a tcaspoonful of vinegar,
which will cause them to eat tender. This can be done with all
kinds of poultry.

Geese the same.

Ducks should have the feet supple, the breast full and hard, and
a dear skin.

Tuarkeys should have fljie, full, and firm legs, skin white, breast
full, neck long.

Game may be detected by removing the feathers off the under
part of the leg, and if the skin is not discoloured, they are fresh.
The age may be known by placing the thumb into the beak, and
holding the bird up with the jaw part of the beak: if it breaks, it
is young ; if not, it is old, and requires keeping longer before cooking
to be eatable.

174 EITCHEff REQUISITES.

KITCHEN EEQXnSITES.

As a workman cannot work properly without the reqninte to(^
or the painter produce the proper shade without the necesnuy
colours, in like manner does every person wishing to economiis
his food, and to cook it properly, require the proper furniture wher ^
with to do it. It is to he hoped that these pages, which have eost
me hoth time and trouhle, as well as months of travelling, will be
read by many above the class to whom it is more especially dodU-
cated ; and that hereafter kitchen utensils may be considered proper
to give as a wedding present to a couple commencing housekeeping*
Nothing, I am certain, could be given that would be a better pro-
moter of peace and happiness in their home.

In a superior cottage, which, should it consist of four rooms, the
kitchen should be the back one, and not, as is often the case, the
Lout one, made into a kitchen and sitting-room, and the back one a
washhouse and receptacle for dirt, &c. Whilst I am on this subject^
I would remark that, in my opinion, all cottages or houses require, in
this climate, a porch, or second door ; it would prevent the continued
draught and blowing in of the rain and dust, and thus avoid a great
deal of illness amongst the inmates, and add greatly to the cleanliness
and comfort of the dwelling; but if built upon H.R.H. Prince
Albert's plan, they do not require it.

The back room should be fitted up with a proper grate, with oven
and boiler, and a copper holding at least six gtdlons. It should
have the requisite shelves, and a little sink to hold a tub, and with
a tap or pump for watear; the latter article I consider the most
essential requisite of a cottager's dwelling: it should possess two
gridirons, one single, one double, a lai^e and small t)rying-pan, three
black saucepans, holding one gallon, half gallon, one quart, or a three*
legged black pot, instead of the gallon one, a large iron spoon, a ladlc^
two wooden spoons, a wooden bowl, a cullender, a chopper, a large
knife, a baking pan, a rolling pin, a paste brush, a stove brush, two
tin tart ^shes, three brown basins, six bread tins or pans.

A more humble abode, possessing two rooms, or perhaps only one»
which latter I disapprove of very much, as there ought to be two in
every dwelling, however small, will perhaps not be able to afford so many
articles of furniture ; in which case I would recommend, as being the
most serviceable, the black pot, gridiron, frying-pan, earthen pan, or
bowl, or spoon, ladle, cullender, chopper, three basins, two tin tart
dishes, baking pan, with oven : with these most ol the receipts in these
pages may be cooked to perfection.

And with the pan, gridiron, and ftying-pan, nearly one half of the
receipts may be done. For baking stewing-pan, see Appendix,

boteb'b asbxal cooKnra stovi:. 17&

ON THE SELECTION 0B» VEGETABLES

As regards vegetation in general, the eye can soon detect the glowing
fireshness, which nature deposits npon such delicate articles of food as
peM» Mpartigaa, cucumhers, heans, spinach, salads of all kinds ; any of
the tibcFve will not keep ti'esh after being cut, longer than twenty-four
htmn, during the summer, and twice that time in winter. All
-Vegctaides should be kept in as cool a place as possible; still, when
the bloom disappears, it is time to make your bargain, as they then
can be had cheaper : do not, however, buy any vegetable on any part
of which decomposition has commenced to any extent, as if eaten in
this state it will be found injurious to health.

Vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, common greens, carrots,
turnip-tops, leeks, celery, artichokes, both globe and Jerusalem, will
keep much longer*

Another way to ascertain if vegetables are old gathered, is to break
a |Mece off any one with the hand ; if it snaps crisply it is fresh ; i^
on the contrary, it has a flabby appearance, and is of a softish con-
sistency, it is stale, and should be bought accordingly.

SOYER'S AERIAL COOKING STOVE.

Mr BBAABST Friend, — ^Wonders will never cease ; and ballooning,
I am happy to say, has at last proved itself of some use to humanity,
for, no doubt, this ingenious apparatus, which I have now in contem-
plation before me, must have sprung out of those atmospheric castles
BO unsafely built in the air; but the superiority of this little aerial
pigmy is so much above that of his brother monster balloon, that you
can have as many ascents in the course of a day as you choose, even
with a parachute, without the slightest danger 'of getting upset ; it is
capable also of successfully braving the strongest current of air ; and,
contrary to all aeronautical notions, its descent is even more agreeable
than its ascent, for it actually refreshes and elevates the spirit of the
spectators, instead of cau»ng them foar, whilst descendii)g to terra
Jhtna.

In this unassuming utensil, Eloise, the wealthy epicure and great
amateurs of cookery will be able to dress a most recKh^hS dinner
before the dining or drawing-room Are, without soiling his apart-
ment, apparatus, or even his fingers ; the cottager will be able, before
his humble fire, to transmogrify his coarse food to a nice stew, roast,
or baked pie to perfoction.

In every cottage bread will be lighter, and contain more nutri-
ment, than when baked in a large oven, in which considerable evapo-
ration always takes place.

This little ovm bus not ths slightest resemblance to our magie

176 CBY8TAL PALACE.

stove^ which was made for the wealthy only, and which is now largely
fraternizing with our troops and allies, in the war camps in the east.

This little apparatus will he dedicated to all classes, hut more par-
ticularly to the massest, as I think, from the model which I now have
before me, it can he made for a few shillings.

I have already tried many receipts in it, all of which have more
than answered my expectations, copies of them will be printed and
sold with the apparatus. I have made good soup, and dressed fish
and meat of all kinds, as well as vegetables, having also roasted and
baked meat, and made sweet and savoury pastry in it.

In fact, I may say, that in reality it is almost a complete kitchen
in a very small compa&s, a real petit Hjoux de famille, not quite to
large as our extensive friend Signor Lablache's &.vourite hat.

VISIT TO THE CBYSTAL PALACE.

Deaeest Eloise, — I was very much disappointed on my arrlvaliu
London that you were unable, through illness, to meet me at the
station, as I need not tell you how charmed I should have been to
embrace you, after nearly fifteen months' absence, and verbally thank
you for your more than punctual correspondence.

My first visit, after my arrival in this monster metropolis, wag
fiir from being a mournful one, such as I have been used to in my
rusticating rambles. No, my dear, I had seen all its " dark sidt^
of life before. It was to that &iiy land and palace at Sydenham^
which, in my estimation, is a continuation of the "Arabian Nights."
It would be impossible for me to describe this wonder of the nineteenth
century. I might almost say that it would be giving to every one a
description of his own property, as it is the FeopWs Palaces and»
no doubt, every one will, if possible, go as often as conveni^it to gei
a sight of his own property, when they will be as charmed as I was.

If I cannot serve as a cicerone, as far as regards the beauties of the
building, yet there is one department which no visitor can enter
without the permission of the grand major-domo, or by the sanction
of the chef -de-cuisine, I mean the victualling department and ceUars
of this gigantic place. The annals of gormandizing never told such a
tale as is here daily witnessed ; never were provifflons better selected
and more carefully managed than by Mr. Home, the well-known and
talented director of this department.

The cooking is most ably conducted by Mr. Fidler, late of the
Reform Club, and pupil of Mr. Soyer. A large number of cooki^
under his care and guidance, are daily erecting pyramids of food,
from the most recherche dish to the huge mounttun of viands^ to
satisfy the craving appetites of the thousands who daily visit this seat
of intellect. Napoleon the First had a saying, that it is the stomaeh

▲ VISIT TO THE CBTSTAL PALACE. 177

whieh g^reros the world : truly it is ; for, to see the thousands who
are daily faring before a most sumptuous huffet, at once gives an
air of truth to the great warrior's maxim. And these refreshments,
supplied as they are at a reasonable price, are sure to attract the
attention of the dainty public, and cannot fail being both beneficial to
shareholders and pai'takers.

I must not omit to mention one of the most interesting depart-
ments of the building, which is the manufacture of aerated waters,
where thousands of grosses of bottles are daily filled in a most artistic
manner, under the direction of Mr. Cox, whose new beverages, as you
doubtless recollect, were so much appreciated at the Exhibition of
1851. Being in a room where a private dinner was to take place for
twenty persons, I was charmed with the beautiful appearance pre-
sented by a pyramid of choice fruits, which on inquiry I ascertained
was supplied by no less a person than the prize fruiterer, as he is
called at the fruit shows, Mr. Lewis Solomon, of Covent Garden.

In the monster kitchen all the latest culinary improvements seem
to have been placed, and are daily in use. The one that carries off the
pahn, in my estimation, is a beautiful gas roasting apparatus, designed
and patented by Messrs. Deane and Dray, of London-bridge. It is
internally lined with red bricks, which reflect a great heat on the
object roasting. Tons of meat and thousands of fowls have been
already dressed in it. For Gas Cooking, see page 90.

Chod PicJcling for Beef and Pork, — Put in a pan or tub five
pounds of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar,
for a jcnnt weighing from ten to twelve pounds, rub it well with
the above mixture three or four times, letting it remain in pickle for
a week ; it is then ready for cooking : half an ounce of peppercorns,
or a few aromatic herbs, will vary the flavour.

Bound of beef, edgebone, breast, flanks, or ox tongues, are the
pieces generally salted ; small legs, shoulders, and belly of pork, pig's
cheek and feet the same. Time your pickling according to size. For
plain pickling, omit the sugar and saltpetre.

NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA.

Cut a pound of solid beef into small dice, which put into a stew-
pta, with two small pats of butter, a clove, a small onion sliced, and
two ialtspoonfuls of salt ; stir the meat round over the fire for ten
minntet, until it produces a thickish gravy, then add a quart of boil-
ing water, and let it simmer at the comer of the fire for half an hour,
skimming off every particle of fat ; when done pass through a sieve.
I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth,
as it frequently spoils its flavour.

The same, if wanted plun, is done by merely omitting the vege-
tables and clove : the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken
out in gkimming ; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served
in it if reqpred, A little leek, celery, or parsley may be added^

APPENDIX.

ON CARVING JOINTS.

Beab EiiOiSB, — I insert the following lesson on thi^t culii^iry
accomplishment, carving, knowing what an important item it is in
the art and mystery of cookery, and yet, how few there are who
understand that apparently simple art.

First, you must truss your joint with taste, ajifi take away any
unsightly hone to give it a good shape, more especially the neck,
loin, or hreast of either veal, mutton, pork, or lamh.

For a shilling or so you can purchase a small sj^w, and ipstead of
letting the hutcher divide the bone of a loin of mutton carelessly, saw
the bone through at about a distance of half an inch firom each other.
Bibs of lamb, and breasts of mutton and veal the same, These being
most difficult joints to carve, should be sawn carefully.

Koast ribs of beef, and sirloin, ought to be cut thinnish, following,
as near as possible, the grain of the meat, which you can soon learn
to do by paying a little attention. A little fat and gravy should be
served on each plate.

Salt beef ought to be cut thinner still. If out of a ^ou^d op f^
silver side, cut it even. Cold meat requires to be cut thinner than
hot.

Roast fillet of veal, cut as round of beef, helping thin slices of
hooon or salt boiled pork ; a little stuffing and gravy to be added.

Mutton requires to be cut rather thicker than beef or ve^ ; pork
the same.

My way of carving a leg of mutton is by putting one prong of
the fork in the knuckle-bone, holding it in the left hand, then I cut
five or six slices in a slanting manner, towards me, dividing the first
two or three cuts equally amongst all the plat«s. By this method
you keep the meat full of gravy, each slice retai^ng its portion;
and it is f^r better, in an economical point of view, than catting the
joint across the centre, as by this means all the gravy nms out, esf»-
dslly if the meat is over done.

Haunch of mutton I carve the same, giving a slice of the loin and
one of the leg to each guest.
• Saddle of mutton should never be cut across the loin if you study
fioonomy. Pass the point of the knife between the bai!k>lxme and
the mei^t, then hegm. at tb^ top and cut as thin chops in a slanting
jHwMaon^ each slice about half an inch thick, which will fpwe you a &ir

^PBKDix: 179

proportion of fat and lean. B; tli'ia method, you can cut enough
for ten to twelve personi, whemaa by the other way jou only ^b
enongli for four or five.

For leg of lamb or poHc proceed m fbr mutton, ajid for loin,
ribs, breast, or neck of eithw, proGaB4 w above, baving preriouti]'
divided it with a Mw, irhiiih gr^Batly fiidliM^ the carving of these

SOTEE'3 BApIHG STEWINfl PAN.

Dbab Eloise,— Since T seat yon the receipt for mj new pan, I
perceive that very little fat is required with any meat done in it.

In the event <^ stewing fat meat or iripe (which ji Bometimes un-
ay<ddable), I first, before sending it to the table, remore the fet
yMA rises to the top with a apoaa.

I muat say that the more I lua the pas tiie better I like it. I'
bave had it registered and they ere noiv being manufitcUired in large
quantitiiB by Uessrs. Deone and Uray, £ing William-street, Oitf,
Mid will doahtlesa be b«fare tb« puUio in ■ ftw wedct. For
de*oriptioo, m« page 60.

SEMI-EOASTING IH THE BAKINQ STEWING PAN.
This cut represents a tin pan in wliich a, podding is placed, and on
the trivet b. joint of beef, previously boned; it is suspended from tlie
iiuide. Potstoes may be baked round the meat, withont interfering
with the pudding. The pana will consist of three diferent rizea ;
namely, one to hold two quarts, one four, and the other ail. Lean
meat ia preferable to fst for lemi-roaating in the baMng itewing pan.

ALARUM, OE COOKING CLOCK.

By the ud of thli little ilaram the hoasewife will be able to time
her joints, piea, and pndtUngs, to an instant.

By winding it up and setting the hand back, starUng from tw{Jv%
tc the time reqair^ni for the article to cook. Say it is on^ and your
j oint is to be done at three, — more the band to ten, wind ap the
spring', and place the boi on the table, giving at the time an impol-
uon to the pendulum.

N.B. The fire must be of a proper heat, or yonr joint will be (itber
aniler or orer-done. They are t« be purchased at Ifo. 46, King
WiUiMn Btnet, City.

SOTEE'S IMPROVED BAKING DISH.

Tbe klxnra ii a sketch of my imprared Boking-diih, wliich I bare
bc&re described at page 94.

If tbe oven is rather sUcIc, tbe pudding baked in it will require
tomiDg; tbereCbre, when well aet, remove the gratjiig contuiiiiig
the meat and potatoes, cut your pudding in foor pieces, turn enoh
piece, replace the grating, oud bake till done.

\'Ei3ETABLE DKAINER.

The above is a sketch of a saucepan, fitted with a perforated pan
and a ve^tetable di^er.

This group, though aitremely umple, is perbapa one of the most
economical cooking oteosilB ever put before the publii^ end ought
to have a place in ever; kitclien.

It ponesxes two great quolitiee, inaamnch aa it saves time, and
luperaedea the tedioua method of fishing tbe greens or cabbage out of
tbe saucepan; and preventi tbe son eyerj-dvj «srJkCA'SDsjcfms(,-^M&>-

}82

APPENBUE.

the water in which the vegetables have been boiled, a quantity of the
material, which by accident might be left iA the pot — ^thereby
clogging up the drain, to the annoyance cf ^iti household. To be had
of Messrs. Deane & Bray, l^ing Wlllkb 9lre6t, City.

Fit the pertbrftid^ pm itMb tij« ttmmOii ktf ffli it with water,
add two teaspoonfulfi dt Mdly mi #llM ihs i^mt bbils put in your
greens, or whateHrtf elfle you tA^ dbtk. ' tiet k Bfitt tet until tender,
then lift out the perM^ hjf ^ ImMm, mA iHth the crusher
press lightly the water out, and serve.

To boil pork, bacon, or salt beef, with greens : — ^When any of these
are half done, put in your greens, using only half the quantity of
salt ; when ready, dish up the meat, press the broth out, which save
ftir Botp ^ th6 next dajr's tise. (^ l^upi^.)

This represents a model of a
CWmfifey Screw-jack for suspend-
ing joMi to. Its cost is very
trifling, and dttiy be purchased
id any H^t^tOdtgei^s, It will
fit on mf ifiitfitel-shelf ; and it
enabks thlj ^t to be shifted
xleartfr (ri^ fetter from the fire,
M ^tetiMoii i-equircii

1 bftte Ofdc^ed a small tin-
1^1^ #hi«ll MAa in Ihree, and
Wffi (3f(^|j^ only A Ifiiall space
Wore the fire, which will greatly
increase the heat when in use. I
cannot g^ve a cut of it in the
present edition^ as I httre not jrek
reoeived the drawing.

SOGER'S KITCHEN FOR THE ARMT.

DcEina the period of the famine in Ireland, I took mth me ft portable
kitchen, and erected It opposite the Rof a1 Barracks tn Dublin, and irlth
which I cooked and delivered rations for !«,B0O persons dally.

Having last year taken a peep at the oainp at Chobham, as well as the
camp at Satoiy in France, and seeing, by the ordinafy manner In which
the provisions for the different messes were cooked, even in France, that a
large amount of aulriment of the food waa last.it occorred to toe tiiat, if a
mOTCHble liitchen could be made to iravel with the army, it wonld be exceed-
ingly useful, whilst on tha tnarch, or When encamped.

The following is an eiplanatloh of the above kllohen;

The CHTtlage Is made of sheet-iron, weighing, with water, fuel, &o., a
little more than one ton. Tlie)owerpan consisls of a circatar steam boiler,
and the upper part of an oven. Over the oyen are placed the rartons pans
containing the rations required to he cooked by steam, and on eieh side la
a banging shelf, which will also bold steam saucepans In ftonl, and round
the driver's seat is a reservoir (brwaler,and a place to hold the condioients.lu;.

The plan of working It wonld be to draw it near to a stream ortesertoir
of water— if brackish or mUddy it does not matter*— there flU the bdlec
■nd reservoir, and T'emove it tn any convenient spot. The fuel mar con-
■ist of wood, coal, turf, kt. fte. 'Within one hour after the Bre Is lighted
the steam would be up, and tile oven hot, and with one six Ifeet long and
three i^et wide, rations fOr lOOD men could be cooked by baking and
steaming in abOBt ttro hoilrs. and the apparatus moved on again, or it

Ita advantages are, saving of time, labour, men, and food, and the cef*
tainty that the men could get their food properly cooked.
The cost of each apparataa Kould not exceed lOOZ.

■ Aof tnlnteUwMuliitMdigoodbf fint conTertinflt UtVitMBi.

INDEX.

Bacon, observations on curing, p. 82
Batter, 462

„ for toad in the hole, 461
Beans, see vegetables
Beef, to choose at market p. 171

„ i-la-mode, 191

n plainer, 192

„ cold, 166, 198

„ aitch, or edgebone of, 78

„ brisket, 78

„ baking in stewpan, 224

*„ Carthusian, 111

„ collops, 169

„ curry of, 159

„ hashed, 158A

„ leg of, 174

„ minced, 156, 158, 239

„ pudding, 233 — 235

„ „ roast, 237, 238

„ round of, 78

„ ribs, salted, 78

„ „ baked, p. 95

„ semi-roasted, 207

„ baked, p. 224

„ salt, 78, 227

„ skirt, 78

„ „ No. 1, 234

„ spiced, 226

„ steak in baking-pan , 1 7 1 — 1 7 3

„ „ to semi-fiTT, 136 — 139A

„ „ pie, 262

„ „ family, 268

„ „ devilled, 118

„ „ important remarks on,
117

„ stewed, 224

„ ragout of, 188

„ vegetables with, 175

„ as bubble and squeak, 160
Beverages, p. 168
Biscuit balls, 458

„ foreign, 400
Boiling, p. 30
Bones, devilled, 442
Bread, on, 402

„ brown, 406

Bread, brown rye, 408
cottage, 408
crumb, 452
keeping, 409
milk, 404

„ plainer, 405
rice, 407
toast, how to, 404

Broiling, p. 17

Brown stock, 3

i*

gravies, 4

Browning, 453
Butter : —

Anchovy, 427

Black, or burnt, 42 5 A

Hotel-keepers, 426

Melted, 410

Eschalot, 118

Cakes: —
Almond, 324
Apple, 392
Bread apple, 396
Cottage, 394, 331
Cheese, 829
Eccles, 395

Gallette, poor man's, 332
„ aristocratic, 330
Gingerbread, 389
Ginger, 388
Milk, 394
Orange, 324
Plain, 398
Flum, 385

„ common, 886
Preserve, 325
Bice, 890

„ plain, 401

„ common, 391

„ ground, 387
Bock, 388A
Soda, 399
Spice, 393
Sweet, 894
Tipsy, 397
Small cream, 826

IKDEX.

185

Calf's bndng, 941

««

» Jelly, 868
„ head, 87
„ heart, 125

„ liver, semi-fHed, 147, 190
„ and heart, 148
heart, stewed, 180
tails, 187

ft

f»

*»

n

n tongue, head, ftc. pudding, 348
Cheesecakes, 829
Chemistry of food, p. 5
Chickens, see Poultry
Chopping of onions, 449
Choice of meat, &c., p. 170
Coffee, 466

„ original hints on, 466
Cold meats, 161, 166
Crab, see Shell-fish,
Cream, Bohemian, 356
Devonshire, 448
pastry, 8 87 A
velvet, 871

„ white, 857
Croquettes, rice, 372
Crust, 827

Cottage roasting, p. 00
Cookery, ignorance of the poor in,

p. 40
Currant-Jelly, 464b
Curry, fish, 89

M rabbit, 205

w tripe, 165A

„ lamb, 159

„ meat, 159
Custard, coffee and chocolate, 862
fkrm, 865
plain, 861
pie-dish, in, 868
gooseberry fool, 868
Cutlets, see Lamb, Mutton, Veal
Cheese stirabout, 98
Carthusian of meat and vegetables,

111—114

Dinner, our Christmas, 85

Dish, an improved leaking, p. 94

Drinks: —

Apple, &c., 467 — 472

Dough, 840

Dumplings, apple, 847a, 848
lemon, 347
nursery fruit, 828
simple suet, 849

f>

M

>f

It

n

£<x»iOn,p. 115

Eggs, to ascertain if fresh, 800

„ ancients on, 801

„ boiled, plain, 801

„ boU, to, 802

„ „ for toast, 808

„ baked, 304

„ bacon and, 807

„ convent fashion, 808

„ mixed, 806

„ omelette, or fraise, 310

w n with herbs, 811

„ „ „ bacon, 812

„ „ „ oysters and

shell-fish, 818
Eggs, omelette, sweet, 814

„ „ preserves, 815

„ „ spirit, 815A

„ poached, 805

„ sausages, 809

Feet, calves, 87
„ ox, 269
„ pig's, 208
„ sheep's, 88
Fish : —
How to boil all kinds, 21
How to boil sliced, 55
New way, 56
To cook in oven, 59
„ „ Lesson No. 1, 60
Fried, Jewish fiuhion, 79
Fresh-water, p. 28
Fried, p. 26

How to ascertain when done, p. 2 1
Brill, 52
Cod, 57

„ Uver, 108— 110

„ sounds and melt, 62, 66, 102

„ hard roe, 101,68, 64
Codlings, 222
Conger eel, 61, 62, 66, 222
Curry, 89
Eels, dried, 49

„ fresh, 50, 59

„ fried, 71

„ stewed, 98 — 100
Flounders, 47
Fritters, 161
Gurnets, 67, 222
HaUibut, 66, 222

„ Jewish fashion, 75
hi oU, 77
Hake, 62, 66
Haddock, 40, 62, 222
Herring, red, 88

188

usCStXi

It

>i

Jjingi 68« 68, 23d
Mackerel, 42, 48^ 41, 49

„ in biUdng 8teWptBli,229
M in pie-dishy 69
„ pidkled, 70
Pilchard, 221
Plaice, 60, 67, 74
Salads, 440
Salmon, salted, 48

„ tceshi 54
Salt, 57

Smiill, to cook. 48
Sauce, 45, 418
Soles, 72, 73, 47
Sprats, 221
Tencb, 58
Turbot, 58
Whiting, 61

In baking stew-pan, 218
Pieces of in ditto, 219
Eels ditto, 223

Puddings, 256

plainer, 257
mackerel^ 258
„ eel, 259
Pies, 266
Fritters, 161—168
Pbuits : —

„ damson, 884
Apple, buttered, 388
fritters, 881
cake. 392, 396
„ drinks, 467 — 9
a rice waiter. 470
„ stewed, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 884
„ sauce, 414
Blackberry pudding, 354
Currant jell^, 46 4B
Fruit frittett, 161—8
Various, stewed, 384
Frying, ok, p. 55
„ pan, p. 48
Fry, semi, 136

„ Lessons on, 140, 141

Game:—
Hare toad in the hole, 218

,1 jugged, 216

„ „ marinaded, 217

„ pie, 207
Larks, 215
Partridge and cabbage pudding,

254
Babbits, large Dutch, 204
Babbit, aemi-roRS^di 212

»

n

Babbit pudding, Sf51
„ pie, 265
„ boiIedfd4
„ semi-fried, 1511
„ curry, 205
n plain broiled^ 908
„ Bo<A:,yotilig, pudding,

255
Giblets, 26, 263,
GHdiron, i^h«t I eto (sook wHh my.

p. 17

Haddocks, see Fish

Ham, importiditobserrationgeil, 8 If

82
Herbs, sweet, bunch of, 451

Imagination, effect of, f>. 68
Irish stew, 183

Iron pot, three-legged, introdiMtiM
to, p. 29

Jam, 464A
Jelly, 464b

„ isinglass aiid gelatine^ 888

„ calf's-foot, 358

„ orange, 359

„ lemon, 860

Kidneys, broiled, 184

„ ox, 177 — 9

„ pudding, 246
Kitchen utensils, 176

Lamb, p. 33

„ boiled leg of^ 88

„ chop, 126

„ choice of, p. 171

„ curry, 159

„ fry, 149

„ head, 115, 194

„ heart, 125

j, kidneys, 184

„ leg, 194

„ neck, 194

„ roasted, semi, 210

„ bakedj 282

„ tongue, head, and feet pod-
ding, 249

„ roasting, time for, 281
Larding, 450
Liver, ox, 96, 244

„ cod, 104-^9

„ ditto tod ballS) 459, 470

„ calves', 147, 148, 190, 244

IHDHI.

1ST

Lirer stuffings 4S7

ifackerel, see Fish

Macaroni, 468

Meats, a series of retfdptg (ta^

Marketing, on, p. 170

Meal, Indian poulenta, 94 j 99

M^at, boiled, ct>ld{ and bioil^i 180,

226

M curry, 159

„ fHtters, 161, 162

„ minced, 156,* 158

,t .hftsbed, 158A

„ remains of cold j 166

„ puddlng8i2S3

„ in baker's oven, p. 93

„ toad in the hole, 315

„ Carthusian, 111—114
Mussell, 445, see Sauce
Mushrooms, 443
Mutton

„ boiled, 81

„ chops, 120< 121

„ cutlets, 142

„ choice of at mttrktft

„ pudding, 247

#, ragout Of, 97 A
remains of, 168
ragout, brown, of, 188

„ roasted, semi, 208

„ roasting, on, 2 80 j 283

Omelettes, (see Eggs)
Onions, to chop, 449
Oren, baker's moat, p. 98
Ox brains, 449

„ cheek toad in the hole< 218
„ feet, 86

„ heart, 126, 177 179
„ tail, 176
„ kidneys, 177
„ liver, 1st I>SSon on, 155
„ tongue, potted and braized, 184
„ fresh and pickled, 185
tripe, curried, 165a
„ pickled, 16^
„ Lyons way, 164
„ toad in the bole, 165
„ H sautedor s«mi-£ried, 165A,
86

Pancake, 380
Paste, puff, 315b

half, 816

another, 8 16 A
„ „ plainer, 817 I

»»

It

>»

n

n

»»

n

»»

If

Pa8te,~puff, 'short, 318

„ pudding, 819
Pastry, ON, p. 119

Fruit, 320, 321, 828

Plain puff, 323A

Small, 322

„ pudding, 454

„ panada, 92
Pickles, 465

„ for hams, beef, 8to.i 62
Pies, how to make, 126

„ introduction, 126

„ artisan's pie, 268

„ „ beefsteiik, 262

„ family, 263

„ veal, 264

„ pork, 264

„ fishi 266

„ hare, 267

„ rabbit, 260

N poor man's, 269
Pigeons, see Yegetablei
Pig's cheek

„ feet, 208

„ kidneys, 134, 146

„ head, 250

„ heart, 125,250, 180

„ liver, 213

M brain and tongue, 242
Useful hints on the sttoking-pig, p.

83, 173
Plum, see Fruit
Poached eggs, see Eggs
Pork, to choose, p. 171

„ with apples, 196, 197

„ bladebone, 215

„ chops, 145, 124

„ curry, 159

„ hashed, 158a

„ leg, baked, p. 95

„ pie, 264

„ pudding, 250

„ salt, 198 — 201

„ toad in the hole, 215

„ and beef, semi - Carthusian
HI *

„ pulse, 202

„ boiled, 79

„ sausages, 128

„ black puddings^ 129

„ sausages and kidneys, 146

„ semi-roasted, 209
Poultry, 160

To choose, p. 173

Chickens, 254

IBS

INDEX.

Duckfl, p. 173
Fowls, 85, 135, 151
Fritters, 161
Geese, p. 178
Pigeons, 185, 152
Turkey, boiled, 85

„ roasted, 811

„ semi-roasted, 211
Boasting, 232
Padding, 252, 253
Puddings : —
Observations on, 236
Baked, 260
Heat, on, 238
Beef, 234

„ with kidneys, 235
Boast beef, 237, 238
Hince beef, with eggs, 239
Veal, 240

Calves' brain and tongue, 241
Sheeps', lambs', and pigs' do., 242
Calves' head and tongue, 243
Lamb, veal, and ox liver, 244
IX). plainer, 245
Liver and kidney, 246
Mutton, 247

Sheep's head, tongue, &c., 248
Lamb, 249
Pork, 250
Babbit, 251
Chicken, 252
Pigeon, 253, 255
Do. brown, 253
Partridge and cabbage, 254
Young rook, 255
Ilsh, 256
Do. plainer, 257
Mackerel, 258
Eel, 259
Baked, 260
Half-steamed, 261
Important observations, 261
Cloths, on, 261
Sweet, p. 128
Plum, 834
Mould, 335
Fruit, 335A
Curd milk, 336
Cocoa-nut, 337
Plain rice, 338
Spotted dick, 339
Apple and paste, 841
Suet, 342
Bread, 848
Brown bread, 344
Bice, rermicelll, and maearoiid, ^\^

Broken biscuit, 344a

For a large family and 8cho(

346
Bice and preserve, 350
Ground rice, 851
Handy, 353
Young England, 854
Bread, custard, yaiious ways, 8(
Egg, 366
Lemon, 373
Potato, 375

Dough, with apples, 876
Yorkshire, 1st class, 225, 377
„ 2d do., 878

3d do., 879

»

Belishes : —

Bones, devilled, 442, 181, 182

Herring with whisky, 441

Mushrooms, 443

Mussells, 445

Oysters on toast, 446
„ scalloped, 447

Babbit, Welsh, 441—444
„ Irish, 447

Scallops, 448

Toast broiled and devilled, 183
Babbits, see G«me
Bice: —

With apples, 350

How to boil, 456

Cakes, 390, 401, 387

Bread, 406

Croquettes, 372

Preserve, 350

Panada, 91

Pudding, 351

Savoury, 90
Boasting, on, p. 88

How to, p. 89

Gas, p. 90

Jack, see Appendix

Time, 91

Cottage, 90

Semi, 207

S All ADS, ON, p. 155

Beans, French, 436

„ Harico and lentil, 435A
Beet-root, 436
Brussels sprouts, 486
Cabbage lettuce, 429
Celery, 436
Crab, 440
Cucumber, 436

\

INDEX.

189

Endive, 430

French, 431

Fish, 439, 440

Lettuce, cobs, 428

Marsh mallow, 432

Meat, 438

Mustard and cress, 433

Onions, 436

Potatoes, 437

Poultry, 438

Badish, 436

Sauce, 434

Vegetables for, 486

Water cresses, 432

Fruit, 369, 370
Sauces : —

Anchovy, 411

Apple, 414

Brown, 412

Bread, 426a

Caper, 411, 423

Celery, 423

Chili vinegar, 423

Cod liver, 418

Crab, 413

Cream, 424

Cucumber, 411

Curry, 426B

Egg, 425c

Fennel, 426c

Fish, 413

Harvey's, 411

Horse-radish, 416

Hotel-keepers', 418

Lobster, 413

Melted butter, 1 and 2, 410

Mint, 416

Mustard, 426

Mussell, 418

Onion, 411, 422

Oyster parsley, 418
„ pickle, 411, 413

Shrimp, 413

Soyer's Belish, 411
M Mustard, 411

Sharp, 420

Simple, 421

Salad, 484

Sage and onion, 411

Spirit sauce, 417

Vegetable marrow, 411

White sauce, 413,419
Soups : —

American butter squash, 18

Artichokes, Jerusalem, 8

Autumn, 28

Carrot, 9
„ red, 22
„ white, 22
Cock-a-leekie, 23

„ „ new, 28
Cow-heel, 16
Giblet, 26
Hare, 27, 28
Hodge-podge, 26
Meagre, 19
Meat, various, 26
Macaroni, 10
Mock turtle, 14
Mutton broth, new, 32
Mulligatawny, 31
Ox-cheek, 38
Ox-tail, 39
Ox-cheek in pan, 35
Ox-tail „ 34
Pea, cheap, 36

„ meagre, 39
Pot-au-feu, French, 97
Pumpkin, 18
Parsnip, 22
Potato, 83
Rice, 11
Semolina, 12
Spring, 23
Swedes, 22
Stock for, 1

„ simplified, 1
Turnip, 21
Tapioca, 12
Turnip, clear, 7
Vegetable, clear, 6
6
thick, or pur^e, 17
„ marrow, 20
Vermicelli, 10, 164
White, with vegetables, 16
„ meat, 18

Sheep's brains, 181
feet, 88
head, 11, 116
heart, 180

tongue and brain pudding,
242
Stewpan, baking, p. 69
Stock for soups, 1

„ simplified „ 2
Stufl^g, cod-liver, 469
liver, 467
veal, 466

n
t*
n

it

Tarts, plain, 838

i

190

UfSKK.

Toast, broiled and devilled, 188

Cabbage, stewed, 337

Toad in the hole. No. 1, 215

„ red, pickled, 466

No. 2, potatoes,

Cauliflower, 292

No. 3, peas,

„ with cheese sauce, 2i

No. 4, cooked meat,

Celery, 284

No. 5, calfs brains.

Greens, cabbage, 285

No. 6, larks and sparrows.

„ spring, 286

No. 7, ox-cheek.

„ thousand heads, 393

No. 8, rabbit,

Haricots, 394, 296

No. 9, hare.

Kail, 293

No. 10, pork,

Lentils, 294, 295

No. 11, „ salt.

Nettles, 296

Peas, green, 289

Veal, boiled, 80

„ large dry, 297

„ outlets, 128, 148, Ui

Potatoes, on, 270

„ chops, 122

„ boiled, 271

„ cutlets for the aged, 170

„ how to choosy, 370

„ choice of, 170

„ new, 272

„ le^of baked, 186

„ baked, 273

„ remains of, 168

„ with sausage, or St^et*

„ ragout of, 188

274

„ stuffing, 456

„ mashed, 276

„ filletof, 189, 233

„ new, roaste4, 376

„ baking stew-pan, in, 214

„ fried, 298

„ roasting, time for, p. 91

„ fried cooked, 8^9

„ pie, 2G4

„ pudding, 376

„ pudding, 241

Parsnip, 281

Vegetables, on the selection pf, p. 1 76

Sea kale, 284

Artichokes, Jerusalem, 277

Spinach, 288

„ with cheese eajice, 293

Savoys, 285,287

Asparagus, 283

Sprouts, 286

„ spread, 283

„ Brussels, 393

Beans, broad, 290

Sweet docks, 296A

„ Windsor, 290

Swedes, 279

„ French and kidnjejr, 391

Beet, red and white, 282

Thousand heads, 298

BrocoU, 393

Turnips, 278, 286

„ with cheese sauce, 293

Carrots, 280

Vegetables for salada, 496

„ Vhite, 381

„ „ pudding, 114

THE ^D.

BANE OF DEPOSIT,

3, PALL MALL EAST,

AND

7, ST. MARTINIS PLAGE, TKAFALGAR SQUARE,

LONDON.

CAPITAL^TTO^ir £100,000.

THIS ASSOCLA^TION is composed of two distinct
and separate branches : the one comprising the business of a
Bank of Deposit for Investment of Capital ; the other, the ordinary
transactions of Life Assurance.

Bankingr Department.

The object of this Department is to afford a safe and easy mode of
Investment, which secures equal advantages to the Savings of the
Provident and the Capital of the Affluent, and to effect important
improvements in the present system of Monetary economy, ooth as
regards the security afforded to the Public and the rate of Interest
realized.

The plan of this Assocication differs materially from tliat of ordinary
Banks in the mode of investing Capital — ultimate profit and security
being the main objects regarded, the Board of Management principally
employ their Funds in Loans upon vested Life Interests, and other
similar securities, and in the purchase of well-secured lieversions, a
class of securities offered almost daily to Life Assurance Companies,
which, although no|i in^roediately convertible, it is well known yields
the greatest amount of profit, combined with the tnost perfect safety.

Investment Aooounta.

Money is received daily at the Head Office between the hours of
Ten and Four o'clock, where Forms of Application may be obtained.
Parties desirous of opening Investment Accounts, may do so with
capital of any amount, whioh may be increased from time to time,
at the convenience of Depositors.

A Stock Toucher, signed by two Directors^ is given for each sum
deposited.

INTEREST PAYABLE IS JANIf ART AVB JTJLT.

PETEE MORRISON, Managing Directs.

National JlssusAirca Aim IvvsennirT Associaviov,
7, St, Mariin'i Flaee, Ttf^algwr Square, London,

$^ Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal for Assurance, and of
Application for Investment Stock, will be forwarded, post free ; and
every requisite Information may be obtained either at the Head
Offices of the Association, or at the various Braocbes and Agenciea
throughout the United King4Qzu«

\

JAMES Campbell,

WIVE MEBCHAVT,

158, EEGENT STREET & BORDEAUX.

CASH PRICES FOB 1854.

BOTTLES AND CASES INCLUDED.

per Dozen.

Vin de Bordeaux 28s.

St. Julien SOs.

LaBose 86s.

Haut Brion, St. Emilion,

&c 42s. & 488.

Lafitte and Chateau Mar-

gaux 66s. to 80s.

WHITE WINES OF FBANGE.

BOTTLES AND OASES INCLUDED.

Vin de Grave 28s.

Barsac

Sauteme

Chablis

• « • • a

28s.

28s. to 48b.
80s. to 36s.

CBAXUPAOirS.

Perrier, Joilet, &c. 48s. to 54s.
&608.

Clicquot's, dry 72s.

Ditto, same as sent to Bussia 72s.

Bocx iursi mosEi^XiS.

Hock, Hockheim 868.

Ditto, Neirstein 48s.

Ditto, Rudesheim, Johan-
nisberg, Steinberg, &c.

60s. to 80s.
Ditto, sparkling ... 60s. to 72s.
Moselle, sparkling 60s. to 72s.

PORT.

per Dozen.

Port, from the wood 80s.- & 36s.

Ditto, crusted 42s.

Ditto, five to ten years in
bottle 488. to 60s.

Sherry, pale and golden ... 80s.
Ditto, ditto ... 36s.

Ditto, ditto, reiy fine

428. & 48s.
Ditto, the Brand C.Z., old
bottle, very choice 54b. & 608.

MABBZRJL.

Madeira, direct ... 42s. & 450.
Ditto, fine old East India

608. to 84s.

BVCB&XiA8»«^e.

Bucellas, first quality ... 368.

Marsala 268.

Lisbon, rich SOs.

Carcavellos .... 86s.

Hennesp/s Old Pftle
Brandy 60s.

Campbell's 7 years old
Glenlivat Whisky 400.

The Lsjgesh Stock of HENNESSY'S PALE BRANDY aad OH
GLENLIVAT WBISKX la England.

ROYAL

FiNOPTIGON OF SCIENCE AND ART,

LEICESTER SQUARE.

oPBir DAzzi-r raoM 12 to 5.

Evenings (Saturdays excepted) from 7 to 10.

ADMISSION, l8. SAT1TRDATS, 28. 6d.

GREAT ORGAN, LECTURES,

MACKurBa-r zir actzoit,

ELECTRICITY, &c. &o. &o.
PHOTOGRAPHIC DEPARTMENT OPEN DAILY.

will be found speedily to reanimate the epirits, improve the digestiTe powers, and
restore the whole nervous system to a nappy and natural state; the balsamic
powers of this medicine produce that delightful feeling of good spirits so very de*
sirible, and dispose both mind and body to healthy exercise; everything under its
inflnenoe soon wears a joyous aspect, and the varied duties of life are performed
with pleasure; and, instead of long and weary nights, give sound and refreshing
sleep. If the stomach and bowels require it. Pabb's Livb Pills act as the mildest
and most agreeable purgative, and by their cleansing powers totally eradicate a
redundancy of bile. — —

TO t«A.DIE8.— Parr's Life Pills are especially efficacious in all the raricty of ailments
inaidental to the Fair 8cx. Ladies even of the moiit delicate constitutions will find them
particttlarly beneficial both before and after confinement : and for general use in Schools
thKf cannot be too strongly recommended. They mildly and speedily remove all Skin
Bmptions, Sallownesa of complexion, Nervous Irritability, Sick Head-ache, Depression of
Spints, Irregularity, or General Derangement of the System.

Testimony of an Eminent Chemist in favour qf FARR*S LIFE PILLS,

GENTLEMEN,— At the request of several friends, who hare introduced Parr's Lifis
puis into their ftmilies as a medicine^ I have submitted them to a strict ch^nical analysis,
in ordeivto ascertain whether they contained any of those, active mercurial and other
mineral preparations now so commonly introduced into many advertised medicines. I
beg to say that I find them worthy of being recommended to the public for their great
efficacy and simplicity, and, as stated by the Proprietors, to be really vegetable pills, con-
taining, at they do, nothing but what is of vegetable origin. I am. Gentlemen,

Your obedient servant, JOHN DALE, Analytical Chemist, Manchester.

BEWABJB OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS.— None are Genuine, unless the words
"PARR'S LIFE PILLS" are in white letters on a red ground, on the Government
8taau», pasted round each box ; also, the ffic-simile of the signature of the Proprietors,
*'T. ROBERTS and Co., Crane-COurt, Fleet-street, London," on the Directions.

Sold in boxes, at Is. i ^d., 2s. 9d., and fiunily packets at lis. each. Full directions are
given with each box.

Sold by E. EDWARDS, 67. St. Paul's Churchyard; BARCLAY and SONS, Farringdon*
street ; SUTTON and Co., Bow Churchyard : HANNAY and Co., 63, and SANGER, 150,
Oxford-street, London ; and by all respectable Chemists and Medicine Vendors in Town
and Country.

HOTEL DE PBOVEKCE,

18, LEICESTER SQUASB,

RESTAURANT A LA CARTE AT PARIS PRV^.

cnisnrE YRAnqAiSE et rrAUEimE.

DZHIHO BOOKS FOB PABTEBB.

CHOIOS WINES AKD 8PIBIT&

mKBamammmsm

SABLONIEBE HOTEL,

so, LEICESTER SQUARE,

HOTEL AND RESTAURANT.

■^^■•■^^i^**

n»hh cCmu in tks OimHnentml 8fyk, ai Sim ffOMh ^
which Ladies and JFamiHes eon im$%

THE PERFECT SXJBSTITTJTE FOR SILVER. —
THE BEAL NICKEL BILVBB, intapoduoed twenty yearn
igo hv WTTJJAM 8. BUBION. wli«a plstod by the patent pro-
oeat of MeMra. Xlkiiigtoii aad Oo.^ m btymn all oompaiiBon the very
beat artiela mhI t» iteifinff (rihar that cm ba ampkiyed aa sud^
eithiiiMfaqfa»€auninlfil|y»M iQfaD po«iU* laat can It be dia-
tingaiBhed from iwl dtftr,

TTircwid or
fl«l» Mnatrnkk King's

filMn. MfeHrn. Pattenu

zvaaiiacaiiiPC09aHi m* ••• «•« *ai u ••• ••• Shu ••* m*- sss*

J^OTB0^* i^POOOB ff ••• ••• ••■ ••• WW« ••• ••• VHM* ••• ••( 4Cf8a

X vDtO f VW9 yy *•• ••• •«• ••• Wm* ••• ••• Ovv> ••• ••• Ov0*

Tnk aad Qofibe aeia, waitara, oandleatidu, fto., At pn>portional»
pilBati Attkindiofre-platbgdoiwbiythe^testpRMSVii.

OWKMTCklXX 7988 SBSBL HOT TSJiTMD.

Viddto. nnad. Kli«f^

TliMa8pMaiaBdrocla»fli]\fiM^p«dos«i ^ Ut. ^ Mi. .m 30i.

DtMMt dlMo tnd dittQ .«. ... «.« *.. lOi. ... Sli* ... S5s.

xva cDoo ••• •.• •.* •»• .•• ••« ••« •.« •«• wk M* ua* •••

CUTLERY WARRANTED.— The most VBried As-
aortment of TABLE CUTLE&Y in the world, all warranted,
ia on SALE at WILLIAM 8. BUBTON'S, at prioea that aro
nmxumnJ&w only because of the largenen of the salaB. Sl-inok
iDOfy-handkd table kniyei, with high ahonlden^ lis. per doasen;
daastiti to match, 10a.; if to balance. Is. per doxen extra ; carvers^
4a.p«rpair; laigeriises, from 148. 6d. to26s.perdoaen; extra&M^
imj, i2B, ; if with sihrer farmles, 87s. to ffOs.; white bone taUa-
kaives^ 7s. 6d. per doxen ; dssserts, ffs. 6d. ; canrers, 28. Sd. per
pair ; black bom table knives^ 78. id. per dosen ; desserts, it,;,
carvers, 28. 6d.; black wood-huidled table-knives and forks, Sb, per
doaen ; table steels, from Is. eadi. The largest stock in ezistenca
of plated dessert knivea and iodk% in oasea aiMl otherwise, and of the
saw plated fish carvers. Also » large assortment of Basors, Pen-
knives SciBBon^ Ac. of the bestqnalugr*

WILLIAM a BUBTON has TEN LABGE SHOW BOOMS
bJl cowunnnioatinri, exdnfive of the Shop, devoted solely to th»
show of OJINEBAL FURNI8HINO IBCA^MONGBBY, ^dnd*
ing Cdtlayt mbkel Silver, Plated and Japanned Warea, Lmn and
Bnss Bedsteads), so arranged and dassined that purchasers may
easily and at onee maka thsv aaleotknis*

OatalogiiM^ witii Engravings, sent {pot pool} fine. The moneiy
vetnratd for ^nrj artiolo not appsoved ot

89, OXFOBIX-STREBT (oomer of Kewman-atree^ Nos. 1, 2;.
and 8, NEWMAK-STBBKr, and 4 and 0, PBBBT*S-PLAC£^
BstabUshed A.D. 1820.

6

CBOSSE AND BLACEWSLL,

PURVEY0K8 IN ORDINABT TO HER MAJESTY,

RESPECTFTJLLr invite attention to the followmg
RICH aiUCES and CONDIMENTS, wHoh with Uw nrioia
other ddicacies they have formany jeara enjoyed lobigh a preferaioe
for, cafibe obtained of moat reapect&ble Sauce YeodorB siid Ilaliu
Warehonaemen in tiie United fijDgdoin,' and ti iha piuici|ial Stont
throughout the world.

Boyal Table Sauce.

A new Bsuce, of a peculiadj delicioiu and piquant flsTOOi^ fit«t
introduced in 1847. It has leceived univeraal oonuneodation ten)
Gie beat jodgee, and ix in very genets] use at the tables of the
nobility, and the prindpal clnbe. To Oioaa who prefer a rich wann
sauce, it may be confidentJy reconmnnded M the best erer jet jao-
duced. Sold in bottlea, at 1b. 6d. and 2s. 6d. each ; and in hand-
iome China yaaes, to be placed on the table, at 8s. each.

Soho Sanoe.

The flattering receplioii this Sauce has met with from liienlMf.&-
tinguisbed epicures, varrailts the proprietoTS in recomnendidg'it M
the beat of its kind extant It is composed of a variety of ingiedJaot^
which ara all bo thoroughly amalgamated Uiat, 'nhile its piquancy is
eitiaordiiiaiy, no decided flavolir can be said to predominata. For
fish, game, alaaks, and made dishes, this is a most desirable sauce.

Basence of Anchovies, .

To prodnce this well known and juatly esteemed Sauce, C. and B.
me none but the finest picked Gorgona Anchovies, of which Ihey
BDiiually import Urge Buppliee for this eiprees purpose. It is neoM-
saiy to state thia, as the tact ia notorious that much of (he nuoB
vended under this name is made &om Sardines, and au inferior de-

' icriptiOD of Sicilian fish, against which punihaien caoDOt be too

otnctly oxi their guard.

CBOSSS AND 3LACKWSLL {eviOkmd^

Dtamiore's ■sscmoe of Shrimps.

This Sanoe !• iMod fiir tbe same . puposes as tiie Essence of
Anchovies, but beinff coEuddiBiubly milder, is preferred b^ many. It
is prepared by G. ana B. ai thinr spedal factory- on the seaHX>ast, and
the true fbYoor of the shrimp being retained, the Sanoe is rendered
most daBdoos.

It is an excellent rdish -with boiled and fried fish of every descrip-
tion.

Sir Robert Peel^s Sauoe^

70B OENXBAL FUBPOBBS.

Each bottle is labelled with a fdC'HmUe of the Bight Honourable
BaroneVs letter of approval.

Strasbourg Potted Meats.

This delicions preparation far surpasses every description of Potted
Meat yet introduced to public notice ; the flavour is frill and rich, at
the same time being so mild and bland, that the most delicate and
£Mitidious palate is pleased. It is also very easy of digestion, and
adapted to weak stomachs.

Calves^ Feet Jellies.

%

Consisting of Orange, Iiemon, Noyau, Punch, Madeira, and Calf s
Poot. These are soM in convenient sized bottles, and their use is
attended with a great savins of trouble and inconvenience ; besides
which, they ensure the certamty of the Jelly always being of uniform
exoeflence and flavour.

They are now in almost duly consumption in many frunilies, and
are very highly approved.

PioUes

OV ALIi DBBOBIPnOKSt

The superiority of these is too well-known and appreciated to need
any remiHky

Fmlts

IK BOTTLBS.

Preserved ]pWft for Tsrts ; aviuiable when firesh finiits are not in
season.

CBOSSE AND BLACKWSLI. (cmfmmtdj.

Bynips

09 TABIOUS KimoS, VOB V]:.^TOUXnrG XdS ;

Or wfaidi, if dilated ivith iced or spring water, produce tk oool end
gefrediing beTerage.

' C and B. are also agents ftr tlie tiiXkmiag, made by Momiear
80TEB:—

^8076X^8 Aromatic Kostard.^

A most exquisite combination of the genuine Mustard seed with
wMions aromatio substances: infinitelj superior to aU other prepara-
tions of Mustard.

Soger's Hew Sauoeat

One of a mild description £ar the ladies^ and another of the tme
Ihnrafar, but wanner, for gen t le m en.

Beyer's Relisb.

lE^ih referenoe to this fiaaoe^ the Ob s et v er remarks : —

'M. Soyer is a cnlinazy artist as profound as he is Tersatfle;
nothing comes amiss to bun. Ko fordgn eumnier ever ^dijed the
&3Lon palate so successfully. He is a great man ; and the SI-ooolDBd
miatton chops that lost NMoleon the battie of heanAc, wdidd hft've
vroduoed a very different eifect if Soyer had dished them 1^ in &
jCagic Stove, and rendered them thoroughly li^t and iSgieMAti by
Sis appetizing BeHsh.'

C. and B. consider it important to state, that the whole of their
ananu&ctures are prepared with the most scrupulous attention to
cleanliness and purity. The utmost precaution is taken in every in-
stance to prevent contact withoopper, er any other pemidoiis metal;
«iid to ensure this end. they have at a gnai expense fitted thefar Am:-
^ry at £k)ho Square with a number of Earthenware Sbdam-'iMm^ and
in addition have had a large Silver pan mad^ in whii^-to- p rs par e
4be most delicate of their produotions.

8

'WHOLBSAXiE WABEHOXJSB-*

21, SOHO S(^\IAB£, LONBOK.

ROTAZ. HOTBZ.^

LATB J^^^fi^pL Opposite thi

WOODMAN, .^CSBmI^!. PisLio BuiLDiMoa,

INIAITD BEVENVE OFFICE,
WOOD STREET, WAKEFIELD.

CONDUCTED BT

GEORGE WARRINER.

DiKKEBS, Soups, Steaks, Chops, etc., at ant Houb of the Dat,

Commercial Gentlemen tnU find every comfort and attention

they can deiire.
Private Families supplied at moderate charges with the best Wines

and Spirits as used at the Hotel.

•tabltttt fto Titty Xonesv Jboof« Boxes, mitf XioekHBy'

Coaob Bouses.

\* Servants charged in the £iU»
N.B. — Omnibuses to and prom evebt Train.
The Wakefield Steak, mentioned at page 94, is cooked in perfec-
tion at this House.

I i ■!■#>*>#

How to Furnish a House and Make it a Home,

36, BOAE LANE, LEEDS.

WRIGHT has the best selected STOCK of STOVES,
suitable for Dining, Drawing, Breakfast, Study, and Lodging
Booms, with Venders and lire Irons to oorrespmid*

- WbI6HT*s superior Shower Bath^ Slipper, Dsg, Hip, And Sponging
Baths, and Baths of every Description, comprising all recent Improve-
m^;^ Qsrdei&BoU«n,(kMenEi«glii«i^HortleitttunaToca%8(7^
Shears, Syringes, Garden Chairs, and evenr requisite in general for
the Oarden or Pleasure Ground. French Moderator Lamps with fine
Oil. Brass and Iron Bedsteads. Tea 4nd Ooffee Urns, Feroolators
and Machines of new and elegant Designs, combining all the recent
French and En^sh Patents. Papier liach^ Tea Trays and Waiters.
TaUe Outlery, Plated Wares, Patent Dish Covers^ and ereiy ArtMs
for the Kitchen. Iron Mantel Heoes of Chaste Patterns. Bsin*
water Pipe sad Spotting.

*•* Eif4r0 ArtkU Sold 0i» tke mott teMombie Ttrmt,

SBiitli*s Werkf Bell BMifftng, 4L "Wire Worklnff,

In ftU their BnUMhM.

VOEBIQH MERCHANTS' A^ EMIGRANTS' 0BDBB8

Ezeottted with Promptness.

8u(h4KitchtnCfraie{nda0yuteat'W'RlOnT&, y^hiuoieaMdSaM
Inwmnger^ WanhouMf 86, Boar liane, Leeds.

COFFEE.

TO HEADS OP FAMILIES, PROPEIETOES AND
DIRECTORS OF SCHOOLS, INFIRMARIES,

HOSPITALS,
AND OTHER PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS;

Hetol-Keepen, Travellen, Captains in fhe Mmha^t
Service and of Emigrant Ships;

AJSrp ALL WHO ABE DESIBOUS Or PBOCUBINQ

Tbe Finest Quality of Coffee^

EITHEB AS AN ABTICLE OF LUXUBY OB FOB EYEKY-DAY USE,

AND THE MOST COFFEE FOE THEIE MONEY;

WHITE, FAIROHILD, & OO.'S

TURKEY COFFEE,

TTAYING stood the test of many years' trial, is now
-■"*• confessedly the only Preparation, unadulterated,
which combines the rich oleaginous portion of the Coffee
berry along with its more solid particles. It is declared
by eminent Members of the Faculty, and others, to be the
|nost delicious in flavour — ^the most nutritive, comfort*

«

Ing, and eoonomieal in its use, — of any Coffee evjsr sold.
10

WHIT£, FAIKGHILD, ft Co. {coniitmed.)

As a test of this statement, tlie7 offer a BEW AED of

ONE THOUSAND POUNDS

to any one who can discover the SLIGHTEST ADUli*
TERATION in their

GENUINB PATENT

Concentrated Turkey Coffeet

The extraordinary success which has attended the in*
troduction of these justly celebrated Coffees^ has raised a
host of clumsy imitators, who for the sake of immediate
gain, stick at nothing in the shape of Piracy and Fraud.
The Patentees* labels and bills have been closely copied
and circulated to a great extent, and every effort made to
trap the unwary,

WHITE, FAIRCHILD, is CO., beg therefore to
caution the Public against purchasing Coffee otherwise
than of their respective AgentfiH^

WHITE, FAntGHILD, & CO.,

Patntteetf,

BOROUOBv ZiOVDOV,

LICENSORS FOR ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, WALES,.
THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, AND
THE COLONKEB,

MANUFACTORY :
107, 108, 109, and UO, BOBOTOH, LOHDOir.

D E A N E • S,

LONIION BBICQE,

CUTLERY, ntONUOHQESr, ASO rOBNISHING
^ WAREHOUSE.

KBTABLI8HXD A.D. 1700.

Da^awB TABLS auraacr

n tlun 150 yau4 notltni extcniiTS and mcieasuuF puUio pkto

itock. comuiuliiE Ivor;, Bone, Horn, and St^ KmiUm, «t«

i the prices are ttie loweat, and the qiuli^

Deaue'i Monoment BMon, »ad LcodoD Bridge Bbt^ia, an pnftarad by
est jadsei to anj other. Their Pen and Pocket Knnea, 6d. Mc^ and opnar
k/ Xm&p' AdKn <f tw; (Unl^oa, ir* an of fbi flMA qtwUt?.

BBAKE, DBAT, AKD Ca, LONDON BBIDGX {tmUmuO.)

ELEGTSO-SILYERED DEANEAN PLATE.

I Hue beaatif ul manufaoture is celebrated for its peculiar pnritr^ and
i ^Stwmf whiieneeB ; and ae aaabstitate for nlver (from which it cannot^
; ; liijr avf teit, be dietmguiBhed), u uoauipaased.
: XmANli, DRAY, and GO. have alwaya on lale TaUoMd T)en&rt
.-: fi^oona and Foi^, in aU the nevrast and moat wpproted silver
pattMw; alao Tea and Coffee Sete^ Idqnenr-etanda, Orneti, Oandls*
,^;; -irikiki, CUce-baakete, and eveiy article usually produced in ntrer.

DBAWINO-BOOH STOVES.

K .' Alugt and handsome ooUeotion of BRIGHT STOVES^ for th«
.I)llisvinffar Dinin^xoom, embracing aU the newest dflsigns, is always

[>■ fh 6AUB> in the Stoye and Fender Department of Deane^ I^y> *nd
Ooili Bstahlishment. They have applied to these and other classes cf
Bes^Mer Stoves patented improvements, economising the ccmsom^ion
of rael, for which the highest testimonii^ have been given. DEl^J^B^
PfiAY, and 00. also invite attention to their improved COOKING
STOVE, adapted for Gentlemen's Mansions and all laige Establish-
inanis, with Kitchen Banges of the best construction. In FENDERS
•ad FIRE-IRONS they are constantly introdndng every novel^i at
Ihe lowest posiible prices.

ntON BEDSTEADS A CHILDREN'S COTS.

DEANls DRAY, and CO. manu&otureand supply evervdescrip*
tion of IRON and BRASS BEDSTEADI^ and have at all times a
large Stock of these Articles on handy together vnth Beds, Mattresses,
Paillasses, Ac Priced Lists^ with Drawiogs, sent^ by post^ free.

FAMILIES FUSNISHING

May obtain, post free, on application, DEANE^ DRAY, and GO.*S
GENERAL FURNISHING PRICE LIST, enumerating more
than 500 articles selected from the various departments « tiisfr
EstabUshment, requisite in fitting up a Family Residence, including
Table CnUeiy, Electro-Plate, L«mp!« Pa]^ ier-mach^ Trayi, Fenders
and Sire-irons, Iron Bedsteads , Britannia Metal, Iln and J^wn
Ware, Tumeiy, Brushes, Mats, &c. &c

DEANE, DKAY, AND CO.

(OFEKma TO THE MONUMENT,)

LONDON BBIBOE

vt

N

EW EQUITABLE ASSURANCE COMPANY

(Inoorponiled bj Act of Parfiament, f toad. 8 Yio. ^p. 110.)

Capital, £100,000.

TRTJfinBEL
BIB JAMES DUEB, Bart. Aid. M.P. I BIB CHAS. HABTmGS, k.D., D.C.L.
WIIiLM. FBBOUSSON, Baq, F.B.S. | GEOBGB J. OUTHBIB, Baq. F.B.S.J

DIRBCTOBS.
BIB CHABLE8 HASTINGS, M.D., D.C.L., Chttnmm.
OBOBGB BBAHAN, Esq., F.B.C.8.» Dm^-Cbainmai.

Qeorgfi Chapman, Esq.
T. BeTan Jonea, Esq.
Banmel HigUey, Esq.

Samnel Bichards, M.D. Thmnaa WaUer, Eaq.
John Craoe Steroia, Eaq. H. Membnrr WaUer. Eaa,
W. Tyler Smith, M.I>. John Weit<m, Baq.

OONBULTUfa PHTBIOIAKB.
HanhaUHaIl,H.D.,F3.S.|C.J.B.Wimam8,K.D.,FJL8.)W,T3rlerSmikh,MJ>,

CONBULTINa SUXGIONS.
Wm.Fergnaaon,E8q.F.B.S. | J. B anald M a rt in, Eaq.F.B.8. | S.SoIlj,B8q.FJB.S,

Surgeon and Medical Examiner---'TbiOa, Wakley, Esq., F.R.G.S.

Standing Cmmsd — Sir Alexander Cockbum, M.P., Her Mj^esty's
Attorney-General ; George Woodyatt Hasiingi, Esq.

iSioJtct^or*-— Messrs. B^ Steward, and Lloyd, 59, lincoln's-inn*
fields.

WORCESTEB CITY AND COUNTY BOAIO).

Offices — Savings Bank, Woroester.

Directors — Sir Cliaries Hastings, M.D., D.C.L., Churman of the
Metropolitan Board ; Jonas Maiden, M.I)., Senior Physician to the
Worcester Genwal Infirmary ; J, W. Lea, Bsq., Woroester.
SoUeUor—MK^ Onrtler, ^. | 4g«'^ oiut aterttarf- - T homm Weaton, Eaq.

Policies IndispntaUe. Mutofd Assurance. Policies payable to
the assured themselyes. All descriptions of Life Assurance business
transacted, and erery facility giTon for payment of Plremium. An-
nuities and Endowments granted.
' No entrance fees, and sdl medical fees paid by the Directors.

Prospectuses, Forms for Proposali, and furtiier infermatioii, may
be had at «ther Office, or of the Company's agents.

H. MEMBUBY WAKLEY, JReHdifU Dwedor.
JOHN THOMPSON, Secretary.

449, Strand, Charing-cross.

OGG'S DAGUERREAN PORTRAIT GALLERY,

432, WEST STRAND (five doors East of the Lowther Ar-
cade). — The above Galleiy embraces a Collection of original Portraits
of eminent men. Glass Kooms adapted for the purpose are erected^
which give him many advantages over other operatora generally. Mr.
Hogg begs to draw tide attention of the public to the fact, that his re-
sources and long experience ensure the hi^iest-dass pictures, not to
be equalled in the Daguerrean art, while Uie arrangement of chai^g^
places tbem within the reach of all. Every picture guaranteed per-
manent. Sunshine not required.

SoAfJI OF Pkiobs (including Frame or Morocco Case.)

Fust Size.

Second Size

Third Size.

Fourth Size.

Fifth Sise,

£ f. d.

Ji 8, d.

£ f. d.

£ f. c^.

£ $. d.

10 6

p la

110

1 10

2 2

H

GARDNER'S LAMPS

ARE THE BEST.

EVERY TASTE MAY BE SUITED FOB BEAUTY
OF DESIGN AHD L0WHE8S OF PBICE.

THB PRXZB

. WAS AWABDSD TO HESSIIS. QAHDNEBa*

IT THE

GREAT EXHIBITION, 1861.

BY BPEOIAL AXtOlSTKEST TO TSE ftUZEH.

UMP AND CUT TABLE BUSS MANUFACTORY,

ESTABLISHED UPWAEDS OF lOO YEARS.
453, WB8T STRAXm,

mXT DOOX TO T&I "aOLl>BlT CKOSB," AITS

63, STRAND,

XDIOIHIXa OOUTTS' SIHK.

GAS FITTED ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE.

B^oienoed Workmen Best to all parti of tbe Coantrr.

WORKS BY M< A« SOYER.

nriw Ua., tiw {fixtb Bditim of Ike

GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR:

AM MTmifcT SMV

SYSTEM OF COOKERY,

lOfK XBABftT

TWO THOVSu&ND FSAOTiaAL BBCSIFXS;^

lUiittnted with nnmerooB JSiDgnfinffi, and oonreoi uul nmnite dffui
hov KitdMBt of cffwy fliai, firM» tU EHclMa of « B^
that of the humble Cottage, Are to be conatracted and fiamkihad

OV

SOYER*S MODERN HOUSEWIFE,

AK SNTIB1I>T XntW, XMXUUBtaXD, AND.

ILLUSTRATBD KDITIOK,

FrieefK6d.

''Ail who haTe food to oook ahould \mj this booIt."--ifonMK^
ChrpwUU,

Lately ahN> Pabliahed, IVSoe U. la.

THE PANTROPHEON;

OB,

HISTOBY OF FOOD AND ITS FBBPiJB^TIQN

FBOM THE EABUSST AGSS OF THE WORLD.

LONDON :
SIMFKIN, MARSHALL, k CO^ fiTATIOl^BBS* BALL GOUBT.
16

Th» WatoraX WIom mtVrtmm*

J CAMPBELL. 108, BEOENT 8TBEET, l»Ting
• juat ratortifld from Bm4«mix, u bi^pj to infoim tlia Pablit^
that from tb* livg* pnnihMM 1m hia n«d* Am*, bf ii anablad to
o&r ffaa ahowe &t hia nnial Prfaoi. Tba baft n-oirtlu of BordMUX
in J. C-'a Stock are tboMof I^tte, Chataui H»moi, Lktonr, ud
Uant Brion. Ho ba>^ lunnvsr, many azoiAaiit Wlaoa of Medoo,
upon which faaUDn haa not itan^td hi uti&aU lalna, namelT, Tin
de Bordeaux, SSs. ; SL JoHbd, SOi. ; I« Boat Hd KInran, Ma. per
dozeo. In J. O.'a adeetlon of the VUte Winia tt Bonleaaz some
Mouliaritist will be finuid, both aa regarda qnalitj and price. The
SnntwiMk wiU> ita fine almond flaraar, anoh » brontlte in Traaea,
SBa. per doaen ; Tin de OraTo, ao mooli dtaak In Hwnbtn^, iritei«
the QUnuite ia oooier and mora humid than onr own, abo SSa. per
dnaen, botUea and eaaea Indnded.

The Trade and Hotel-keepan nqturiaf thaae WInet wIH do well
tooallon

XT. OMBpbaU, 1S«, Kavmt Btrwtt
to whidt addree* Countrj' Ordon, with BwilttanftM or Town Bafer-
enoei^ abonld be aanL

ir.B.— Hie benefidal ow of tbaae natural Winaa to tba InnUd la
prov«d bj the daily reoonmundatiou* tma the tlMnll7.

VSCTAB, /e)i^K^^^^^^onroxBBSEB.
M mm feotory— Ua, HIOB BOIAORN.

Jttrt pnbliilMd, dedioatMl to Eir BaUwin Wake WaUcar, K.O.B.
A VIEW OF THE FLEET AT ANCHOR.

PUOLSAILSI AWITAIOFTII

Priea in four pilntlngi iCI II

HiKhtyeohmred <S 3

Proob £S80

Bin^SII^Sa. OnP^MT, MbyST.bdag

THE IiABGBST UABINB SUBJECT BYBB BNOBATBD.

■Iiondon: ACKBBltjUiK and Oo., H, Sband.

SMITH & PHILLIPS,

QAS ENGINEERS AND PATENTEES

OF
AMD

66, SKIHSEK STKEET, SHOW HILL,
And 6, WEST SMITHFIELD,

HAYiNa invented and secured by Her Majesty's Royal Lottery
Patent the most valudbUf economic, and useful Appardhu for
Heating, Cooking, and Ventilating by Gas, beg to invite the
Public to an inspection of the same, resting assured that every
prepossessed prejudice against the cleanliness, comfort, and 000-
nomy in the use of Gas, for the above-named purposes^ will, after
a single inspection, cease to exist.

So many unsuccessful attempts having been made to fonn Heating
and Cookmg Apparatus worthy the attention of Men of Science,
and the Culinary Art, and all these attempts having been lauded'
by the Inventors (or rather imitators, for they have all imitated
the same defective system of construction) as being perfect^ it
would be useless to tlieorize on the subject, and thereby leave the
Public in doubt, by permitting them to add this invention to the
list of useless cooking and heating apparatus. The Patentees
therefore invite the most prejudiced and the most scientific portion
of the Public to have a practical proof, by seeing the apparatus in
action, feeling convinced that, as others have done, they will
return with a conviction of the positive utility of the invention,
and the truth of being able to oook and heat by Gas, without
producing any pernicious e£kcts, and giving an immense economy
over tJte old systems of heating and cooking hitherto employed.

DBSCRZFTZOV.

The apparatus Fig. 1, so highly i^mredated by Mons. Boteb, (who cer-
tainly is eminently qualified to Judge of the practical utility of this apparatus,
as being equally well adapted for the cooking of the varied French dishes,
as for the more substantial English ones,) is acknowledged, by tiie best
judges in gas matters, to stand unrivalled.

It is a boon, alike to the consumers and makers of gas; to the former in
economizing the quantity burnt ; and to the latter, by creating a means of a
general did^ consumption, instead of a partial use, and thereby compen-
sating, in a great measure, by an increased demand, the reduction recently
made in ^at important article. In this apparatus it should be understood
that the burner under the boiler is so conveniently arranged, that it can be
turned out for the purpose of lighting ; thus precluding the possibility of
explosion ever taking place, an Inconvenience to which all previous gas
apparatus for cooking are liablci This system is evidently of the utmost
importance, as a meansof preventing accidents, and also gives an opportunity,
if necessary, of cleaning the burner with great facility. In fact, the whole
of the apparatus is truly simple and convenient, possessing the advantages of

BOASTING, STEAMING, BOILING, BAKING, BBOILINQ, FRYING, STEWING, &C., with

a certainty of perfect ventilation and combustion, and a cleanlinbm

iNCRBDiBLE to all who havo only seen defective cooking apparatps. All this

is cATTicd on with an astonishing certainly and regularity; the heat operating

18

of burning I..Toided..nd

lioui quillliei

IhU thi great Idrui

TZ

being ab

etoreUrd th

RguUdng tbs cock

.1 lo ko.p Ih. mru

am the •ppurntua, th« A

»u«. Thw

obUlB

t^o>l H™ with

ou. elMnie. indbav

eheeo

Itovt-Bimed rintleiriui (Mons. Bonr) to rspo

Ihe t'Dok

ng ippsmiu

mimufKIured b^ SMIf

I uliltd to which, It hu underr^iw, during Kt«nl

month!.

ng.ndHVEn.trl.l>.the

Ihefl.tu

3 uid ipprobitton frum

them«t«l.nllflcm

BMtngl

«r> of .hB on

■™td.^Th^^PrL=.^

f tbii tppintug, £2

pleti.

firiXhoialUofle

ETOII ,IF Clu

■ hIjd>i>, Ixni, >nd I! 11

HO-HaDiia ire pufi

utarly

inyll^'

"Z^.Z^I^'^^i

li Ukei plue 1ii\j

»IhB

promou

Chw Oookliiv Apparatiu, mamiftiottired bj

Srf'^i ^2*

Fig. 2. — A. moat convenient appAratus, capable of Boastingr
Baking, and Bail ng at the sams time and when in use for
Boiling purpoaeB, Broiling or Toaiting cnn be perfbnned in tbs
moBt perfoot manner Ironing la also performed in the moat
cleanly manner by this aimple apptustus. Pnoe complete with
a Tartety of necessarr Culinaij Art claf^ £i is Smm Ain>
PaiUirs, Patentees.

SO

Hewn. Smltb and PUlUp>.

BOTES'S CELEBSATED ROASTETt.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 3. — A moet economic Boaater, highly >ppred>te<l and
pwtronized by Uoni. Soyei; uid, in jnatice to thkt great idbh1«t
of th« Culinary Art, twars bii name. Priot £1 ISa. SuiTH axd
Pbillifb, Patentcea.

Fig. 14. —A Small AppaistoB for BoiUrg PoTpoiea. Price Si.

•as Oopldng App>r»ta«.

Fig. S.— A Gm Stovtag Stora, uuns u pl«:ad ou top of
Fig. 2. With this appunitaa kll tho Cooking >t&ted to be per.
farmed by Fig 2 cm ^ parfc r — 1. ooepi RoaMiiig mil Baking.
Price XI uid £1 fia.

irig. 8. — A Q»a Gridiraa, tke Talae of which nuiy be estimated
bj tbe hundreds uov i> sn. Price £1 lOi. If with an Oven
mttached, £S Si.

Fif.& Tif-lO.

Fig. 9.— A Small Stove, Eoitable for Heating Italian and Flat
Irom, IRiUDeii and Fliuaben' Stddering Inmi , at tlie o
' ' '■"■ '"" " ly Boiling PurpoBo.

a alio be applied for any B

Price 2Ii. and

THE TOILET AND HOUSEHOLD SOAPS

OP

TGROUX'S IMPROVED SOAP COMPANY.

102, NEW BOND STREET, & 17, BILLITER STREET, CITY.

USED BT THE SOTAL HOTTSEHOIB

AND MOST OP THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY.

These valuable Soaps are strongly recommended by Erasmus Wilson^ Esq.,
F.E.S.t in his celebraUd Work on the SMn. (See page 61.)

B0V8BB0&O SOAP. «. g.

The YELLOW or WHITE CLEANSING . . in 141b. Packages 7
WUITE and YELLOW CLEANSING TABLETS, packed in

half cwt. cases, including cases, at per cwt 60

Or half cwt. case delivered free to any part of England upon receipt

of a P. O. 0. for 32

This soap, for " oU Household purposes,** requiree no $oda in washing,
and it 18 remarkable for preserving even the nnest textures, at the same
time reriTinji; (mthotU runuing) the brightest colours. It washes
equally well m hard water.

The SPERMACETI NAVY SOAP fbr Sea Water ... per lb. 8

WHITE CURD in Bars 8

DITTO in Tablets and Scented per doz. 3 Q

N.B. The aboTe Soaps vary in price according to the market value of
TaUow.

The TURTLE OIL, per Box containing Three Turtles Is, 9d, and 2 6

This Soap was mentioned by E. Wilson, Esq., F.B.S., in his recent Work
on the Skin, as the Best Soap for the Toilet yet brought under his notice.

The TURTLE OIL TABLET each Od. and 1

The CASTOR OIL in Bars, at per lb. 1 8

DITTO in Tablets .... per doz. 9s., 9s, 6(1., and 5 <

The ORANGE and LEMON SOAP .... per box 2«. 6(;. and 3 9

The INFANT SOAP per box 1 6

€k>ntaimng Two of the most emollient Tablets of Soap and one Packet of
superfine Violet Powder.

Tlie LADIES* TABLET each «<2. and 1

The MEDICATED HERB SOAP at per packet 1 6

The CHINESE SOAP in a Box containing 19 Tablete of the finest

Soap J, 86

The NAVY TOILET SOAP per box 1 «

Manufactured for the use of the Officers in H. M. Boyal Navy, being the
only Toilet Seap yet introduced for washing in Cold Sea and fresh
Water; it is admirably adapted for Sea Bathmg.

OLD BROWN and WUITE WINDSOR ... per lb. 1«. and 1 6

VIRGIN HONEY per doz. Tablets 2«., 3s., and 5

ALMOND ditto 8«., 9s, 6d., and 6

The COMPANY'S TABLET SOAP . ditto 4

Stamped ^-ith the seal of the Company. None but the finest manufac«
tured Soaps are issued with this stamp.

GROUX'S SHAVING SOAP in Shaving Pots ls„ CREAM ditto . 1 6

Tliose wbo are not already aware of tbe superiority of
Groux*s Cleansinir Soap over tlie<or(linary Vello-w and
Mottled Soap, will qbliire by periisinff some of tbe Tes^
'timonialSf wniob will induce most FamiUea to
trial. ^

H. J. & D. NICOLL,
lU, U6, & 118, BIGHT STBIET, UD 22, COBHIU,

mOOIX'S RBOISTIilCBD FAZOTOT.

Hany hare lasumad the use of the word P*letot, but the P&tenteeB of the
design and msteriil u«ed in this InezpenuTe and eentleiiiaDly uticle of drew ue
Meean. NICOLL, Morchant Clothien, Palstot Patentees, and Manu&ctvuvn
of CHothi who biTB agents in every Principal Town in the Dnited Kingdom
and its Colonies. Their London Addressee are as foUov :—

No, 114, KEGENT-STREET, fonna a Department for Palelots, ftc.

No. 118 (the next house), is devoted for Military and Diplomatic Uniforau,

No. 118, fur Bohes and every novel or established article of costume.

No. 120, is excluaivel; for Boja' and Youths' Clothing, Servants' Liveries,
4o., of unusual exceUence, and at 22, CORNHILL

^>ecimens of all ma; be seen.

In each Depurtment skilful and intelUgent AssiBtuila attend, and tin ad-
mitted fact, " That an article to be really cheap should be teaUj good," is
practically sustained.

H. J. A. B. VZZOImI,,
■IJ4 1X6. 118, UO, SBGENT &TB£ET, ucd 3?, COSKHILL.

>7»:;'^0^7v>^>7\^^w'';iVw^7v^'::v^7*'<'>v'^-v'/':vV\'y'ivV*c-^.vV»>

??

Price One SnnxiNa, in BoarcUi, New Eevised Edition of

ROUTLEDQE'S GUIDE

TO THE

CRYSTAL PALACE,

AND

FAEE AT SYDENHAM.

WITH PLANS of the BUILDING, GROUNDS, and
COUilTS, and numerous Dlustrationa.

ALSO THE BEST WAY TO SEE THE PALACEf BY
WHICH MUCH TIME WILL BE SAVED.

" Is a cheap (tnd conrenient companion."— ^/Amtfitm.

** All excellent guide to the various (Icpartmunts/'— i/bnttM^ Tost.

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" Will excite interest far beyond the £xbibition."-n///iij<ra/tfi VmM,

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?rV;

COMPANION TO ROUTLEDGE'S EXHIBITION GUIDE

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THE TEN CHIEF COURTS

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BY THE AUTHOR OF "CALEB STUKELY."

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